O1 steel

V

vikingextreme93

Joined
Nov 2, 2006
Messages
250
I do see some 01 knives being made and I am just curious how it stacks up to the simple carbon steels like 1095 in 4" plus blades? I see there is a small amount of chromium and also wondering if that makes much of a difference in oxidation VS 1095. I am just curious because I am going to start building my no weld grinder and want to start with some hard use knives but want some amount of stainlessness beyond 1095.
 
I'll first say that I don't use O1, but next I'll say that you won't get any additional stainless properties in my experience. I find that in the simple steel realm, 15N20 is the most stain resistant I've worked with. Not saying it's stainless by any means, of course. Problem is finding 15N20 thick enough for larger blades.
 
I've been looking into O1 as well and from what I've dug up searching this site it simply doesn't seem like it's worth the trouble. Shame because O1 is the only knife steel that I've found to be available locally.
 
perhaps D2 would be more up my alley then? I have read its tougher grinding however I think If I try something more difficult it would make it easier in the long run
 
Here's some addresses of Fastenal in the Calgary area, they carry A2 and O1 in flats and others 1050/4140 and my favorite W1 in Drill rod for pounding. I always let my fingers do the walking and call ahead to make sure they have it in stock but they can order it and theay are fairly reasonable. A2 will give you a lil more stainresistance over O1 but D2 like was mentioned before will do good too. but then again if rust resistance is that important, why not just go with 440c/ATS34 ?


Fastenal Company Inc - www.fastenal.com
4736 14 Street NE, Calgary - (403) 291-3282

Fastenal Co - www.fastenal.com
20-5200 64 Avenue SE, Calgary - (403) 235-5802

Fastenal Canada Co - maps.google.com
112-5726 Burleigh Crescent SE, Calgary - (403) 258-2658
 
69_knives said:
I've been looking into O1 as well and from what I've dug up searching this site it simply doesn't seem like it's worth the trouble. Shame because O1 is the only knife steel that I've found to be available locally.
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I'm just curious as to why you've come to the conclusion that o-1 isn't worth the trouble?

As to it's stain resistance: I'll just say it plainly, it has none. Zero, Zilch. But that doesn't make it a bad steel choice, it just takes some simple care and cleaning from the user.
Later,
Iz
 
bindlestitch said:
I'm just curious as to why you've come to the conclusion that o-1 isn't worth the trouble?
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I was wondering the same thing.
Properly annealed, it cuts and grinds the same as any other steel I have worked with.
Give it a try before you dismiss it.
 
I'm using an eyeball controlled propane forge and from the O1 HT problem threads and the actual spec for HT, it just sounds like something I don't want to be involved with.
 
O-1 isn't a steel that will properly harden with a quick, bring it up to heat and quench it treatment. It needs good control and soak time at temp. To get the best performance in any knife steel, a proper heat treat is must.

Gene
 
If you're considering D2 or A2 then you can also go into the stainless world, the equipment requirements are the same.
 
0 1 is a simple carbon steel. Carbon steels have been heat treated by rudimentary methods for hundreds of years, and worked well. It can be treated by "eye," or with temperature control. It treats similar to 1095, though it does need to soak a little longer.
Bill
www.billdeshivs.com
 
I've used 01 for a bowie and have had no problems. Randall uses it as well and they are well liked. But I also send mine out to get heat treated unless I'm using old leaf springs or saw blades.
 
Hello there. I don't have a fancy setup for heating my knives. I have basically a stack of fire bricks and a propane tiger torch:o. Don't have an actual forge yet. So I was wondering how I would go about doing a "soak" time on a blade of O1 in this matter. Should I just hold the steel at non-magnetic or slightly above for a few minutes longer and then quench it?
 
Bill DeShivs said:
0 1 is a simple carbon steel. Carbon steels have been heat treated by rudimentary methods for hundreds of years, and worked well. It can be treated by "eye," or with temperature control. It treats similar to 1095, though it does need to soak a little longer.
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With all respect Bill, I wouldn't call O-1 a "simple carbon steel". It is most definitely an alloy steel. Simple carbon steel have mostly iron and carbon, sometimes a little Mn (as in 1084). O-1 also contains Si, Mn, W, V, Cr, Ni, Si, and traces of other elements. These are the reason that you need an extra soak time to get the most out of it.

As for what the OP is looking for, when you say "hard use knives", what type of use are you referring to? Rough environment where corrosion is an issue? Cutting tough materials? Prying rocks out of tank treads? The intended use of the knife, coupled with your available equipment for heat treatment will help you find the right steel for your application.

-d
 
69_knives said:
I'm using an eyeball controlled propane forge and from the O1 HT problem threads and the actual spec for HT, it just sounds like something I don't want to be involved with.
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You don't want to be envolved with D2, A2, or stainless for the same reason.

Kelly Cupples has 1080 (0.78% C, actual) in various flats for either stock removal or forging... octihunter@charter.net... if you e-mail him and ask, he will send you a current price list.

Mike
 
deker said:
With all respect Bill, I wouldn't call O-1 a "simple carbon steel". It is most definitely an alloy steel. Simple carbon steel have mostly iron and carbon, sometimes a little Mn (as in 1084). O-1 also contains Si, Mn, W, V, Cr, Ni, Si, and traces of other elements. These are the reason that you need an extra soak time to get the most out of it...
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Yes deker O1 is indeed a higher alloyed steel, and while you could assign AISI numbers to it it is actually in the tool steel class and considerably different than the carbon steels. It is quite richer than many other tool steels yet not as much as D2 for example, it does however contain more complex alloy carbides than one has to deal with while something like 1095 simply has cementite, or good old iron carbide, which are the easiest to deal with. If you have the carbides in a good condition 10XX series steels can be heated in a forge and quenched with very good results. The alloying and carbides in O1 will need more care to really get it to shine. It is worth the trouble if you have the tools to work it, since it should outperform any of the 10XX. However if all you have is a forge it should be able to equal them if you are careful, but why pay 3 times as much for the same level of performance when you can use 10XX in your forge?
 
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