Oboe tip guillotine?

galadduin

galadduin

Joined
Dec 25, 2004
Messages
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My brother in law sometimes orders some oboe knives. He is a pro payer but also he has some customers on reeds and equipments. The last lot of reed knives I sent last month were huge success. The customers and him are delighted with the D2 performance. Also I've a little improvised the edge geometry. They love sharp tools obviously but all the reed knives in the market are flat, chisel or hollow grinds. These geometry types are a bit aggressive for their job as I have observed so I've put a micro convex at the tip on a flat grind like some japanese blades. This is what they loved about, it doesn't dive on reed but simple to sharpen and still sharp...

Now he informed me, there are some serious market on the reed guillotines. The most famous brands are too expensive for them (about $250). He asked if I can make some under the price. Insured me as he will sell at lest 10 in a blink of an eye...

Here is my problem.
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http://www.forrestsmusic.com/detail/tip_cutter.htm

I have been able to understand to 90% of that device but I'm worried about the mechanism of that cutter. It has to go down precisely, no angle at all. How to make the crank and mechanism simple but precise? Do I have to use cogwheels or what?

I think the steel I have available will do the job well: D2 and RN15X. But I want to use that stainless RN15X. Do you think I have to go for more tough steels or these will suffice?

Any thoughts welcome. I have about 1 month to build a prototype. This order will greatly help my progress.
 
I used to play Oboe and I would think that the steels you have would work well. If anything then you would get a sharpening market for the blades. I don't think that I could give any help to you on the mechanism though.
 
I'd use a simple connecting rod similar to a falling block rifle action, also who says the lever has to be at the side? you could put it top center as well. like a rocker arm in an engine. I'd make the frame out of desert ironwood, or curley maple and use S30v for the blade. the handle out of brass.
 
A simple rack and pinion gear mechanism is probably what they use, spring loaded. You could also get a ruler section to fasten on it. A wooden base would be very nice but stabilized wood would be the best to prevent warping.
 
I'd use a simple connecting rod similar to a falling block rifle action, also who says the lever has to be at the side? you could put it top center as well. like a rocker arm in an engine. I'd make the frame out of desert ironwood, or curley maple and use S30v for the blade. the handle out of brass.
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On top it is ! It is a great advice, seriously. If they are using it facing the side it would improve the ergonomics. Wooden frame will look better obviously...

A simple rack and pinion gear mechanism is probably what they use, spring loaded. You could also get a ruler section to fasten on it. A wooden base would be very nice but stabilized wood would be the best to prevent warping.
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Pinion mechanism they use I'm sure. Thanks Mete, I'll use that also for precision and smooth movement. I'm not sure about the wood base, yes it would be great to use stabilized but it will raise the expense for me but I want to keep it low priced (about 125-150 $). Also stabilized wood is not available for me for now (living in Turkey problem), importing or building it will be pricey. I'll go for brass or Aluminum I guess, maybe. Al will lighten the over all weight. Thank you all for the input, really will help me greatly.
 
If you can't get stabilized wood, you could always go with a dimensionally stable wood. Well aged, quartersawn, mahogany and ebony would be the traditional choice. A Macassar ebony base would be very nice.
 
It has been 40 years since I gave up the oboe. The cutter I used had straight edged razor blades that slid into a simple guillotine that worked like a mini-paper cutter. Nothing fancy and no cams, gears or levers. It had a wooden base, the plastic and metal cutter arm (the blades slid into a recess,just like on a sticker scraper), and a little wooden platform that cradled the reed and had a metal end piece that provided the shear for the blade to run across.The one shown doesn't look like much more than a fancier metallic version of the same thing.

I made my reeds from scratch, starting with bamboo slabs. I'd go to a competition and when one of the other players had a bad reed, I'd give them (usually a her) two or three and say, "Keep them, I've got a couple dozen in my case." They couldn't believe that anyone could afford that many reeds.

Don't over-engineer it, simple works better than fancy.
Stacy
 
bladsmth said:
I'd give them (usually a her) two or three and say, "Keep them, I've got a couple dozen in my case." They couldn't believe that anyone could afford that many reeds.

Stacy
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The helpfulness quotient never fails to rise when a pretty girl is involved :)
 
Now, I know I'll get razzed for this,...
but, in my personal experience, I have never used the words oboe player , and pretty girl in the same sentence.
I know there are beautiful oboists are out there, but in the 1960's they sure weren't in any band or orchestra I was in.
However ,oboe reed skills have other advantages in a girlfriend.
Stacy
 
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