Of jigs and good belts

P. McKinley

P. McKinley

Joined
Jan 27, 2008
Messages
2,010
Why of why did I not find out about Cubitron belts earlier? Its.... its damn near orgasmic... the difference is amazing!
I've been messing 'round with inexpensive A/O belts for years. But, finally, I bit the bullet and purchased a bunch of high-end belts including some 36 grit Cubitrons. After a morning's worth of grinding I have produced 5 blades including an 11" beast of a chopper....... all on the same belt, and its still cutting like new.

Time will tell if this really does translate to a more economical method than using up cheap A/O belts at a faster rate.

Now.... grinding jigs.
I have a spinal nerve issue that has left my left hand without gripping strength and coordination. This means I have trouble with free-hand grinding - as in "I can't". My solution was to have a machine shop put together a jig to hold my blades. When I have a big, long blade I attach a long steel bar to my tool rest that provides ample surface for supporting the blade jig throughout the stroke.

I have yet to try this for hollow grinding( I have yet to try hollow grinding period). Assuming I can dial-in the height correctly I believe this may work, but my grinder has no means of adjusting the tool rest height.

Has anyone any experience with this process of jigged hollow grinding? If so, I'd love to get some tips on the process before I make the first attempt.

Thanks,

Peter

Here's my set-up:












There they are... 6 brand new Cubitron belts!! YEAHHHH!!
 
Hi Peter.
I too am now having a very bad time with strength in my arms and hands and as well I've recently had to go to some massage therapy and chiropractic help. Fortunately, many years ago I went to a most simple jig to help with my grinding. I have a BEE ( Canadian ) made grinder that I use for flat grinding and is permanently locked in a very accurate 90 degrees for contour grinding and a clone for hollow grinding that I use an 8 or 10" wheel on. The set up is most simple. I have a long table that is adjustable to tip up. I grind edge up. This table most be twice as long enough to accept any blade length you will do plus the length of the blade holder This table will interchage on both grinders no changes needed. I say this to point out it is not some fancy piece of work but simply a long piece of 3 1/2" piece of alluminum angle bar. The blades go into a simple holder of two 3/4" canvas micarta blocks .Hard wood does not work well since you will still have to use the slack pot. I only grind folder blades with this now but did do, and have friends that use this system for staight blades. I say this to tell you my blocks are about 3 1/2" X 8" and have 4 bolts , one on each corner. As well on one of the blocks has a groove to take a 1/16" rod in the middle from one end to the other. The blade blank is placed in the holder, the grind to lines have been scored on the cutting edge and a similar size piece of material is placed in the other end if it has a short tang or is tapered. The blade hoizontally is placed so that the grind line is parallel to and perhaps if possible at thbe same height as the rod, but this isn't critical. place the grinding block on the adjustable table and estimate the angle you want for your bevels. The table must be horizontally level and not free to move on its own. Place legs on the ends if necessary Try to grind one side. Does the table need to go up or down fo angle and is the grind even across the blade? A hit on the end of the blade on a wood table will help that. Do not lossen everything off and try to do it that way. If you FOLLOW the grind lines you marked on the blade edge for width it's SUPER what results you will get. I course grind one side swinge the handle around and do the other side, and then follow through with the smaller grits doing one side and then the other. I don't know it it makes a difference but I grind all my blades hard. As well if you think the ceramic are good belts try the 3 M 984f ones if you have not. To see some pictures of this so simple so effective jig go to the Knife Dogs.com and pages 6 and later in the Main Forum and under the thread on jigs. For more help you are welcome to ask me more questionsor contact me direct at niro@telus.net To see some of my work, blades all done with this simplistic thing go to customknifegallery.com and scroll down on the left hand side to find me. Yes it even works for Persians. Great and better grinding to you, Bud! Frank
 
Judging from the pics, I think those are the 984f's Frank, since afaik they're the only red cubitrons. So to clarify, those are Cubitron II's, and not the yellow original cubitrons, assuming I'm not mistaken.

Want to clear that up since personally, I don't find the gold cubitrons to be worth a crap for our application, as they're designed for machine pressures. YMMV of course.
 
Javand, Frank - Yes, those are the 984's.

I know there are a number of "high-tech" belts out there and I'll likely try some Blaze belts at some point also, but these were in my price range so.....

Frank, I took a look at your jig. It just don't get a whole lot simpler than that, eh? And, judging by the work you produce, it work a charm too. But as you so eloquently stated: "It's not what you use or how you get there. It's the satisfaction you get and how good the end result is."

Thanks for the tip,

Peter
 
Last edited:
Javand, you are right, however, I've tried the Blaze belts many times but because of the weak pressure I get on them they don't work worth a crap for me. On the other hand the Norton Engineered belts are what I call real super !!!!
 
I'm with you Frank. I know the blaze belts are great for some, but they just don't work that well for me. I tend to work with less pressure and speed, and usually start grinding after forging and ht at 60 or 80 grit though.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top