Off center blade when sucked in

jftman

jftman

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
540
Ran into two knives recently that do this.
Blade closed no play,
Blade open no play.
Blade open with lockbar tension removed - no Play....

Closing slowly it goes down on center up until when the detent balls will engage,

Blade moves to the side.
I would guess one side would be the side this issue would favor,
And probably has something to do with lock bar tension?

But neither of these two knives have lock stick or is difficult to move the liner/bar
As they are not both frame locks.
Weird or ?
 
Picture if you will the opposite of this ...(i just used this drawing in another thread)


maybe try holding the pivot up to a light and look for a gap...Im just guessing here but maybe your washers are to thin/worn and when fully closed blade-play is evident and the tension of the lock bar pushes the blade over..? maybe you have a tow-in problem instead of a tow out like this picture? :confused:
 
jftman said:
Ran into two knives recently that do this.
Blade closed no play,
Blade open no play.
Blade open with lockbar tension removed - no Play....

Closing slowly it goes down on center up until when the detent balls will engage,

Blade moves to the side.
I would guess one side would be the side this issue would favor,
And probably has something to do with lock bar tension?

But neither of these two knives have lock stick or is difficult to move the liner/bar
As they are not both frame locks.
Weird or ?
Click to expand...


Sometimes its an optical illusion created by the detent ball seating into the blade making it appear as though the blade is favoring the lockside seeing the lockside is now closer to the blade than the non lockside. This is why I check centering at the tip of the blade assuming the grind is even.
 
Agree 100% that accounts for some appearences that liner is closer on lock side and it really is more down closer to pivot.
So looking for gaps along both sides of liner there will be something involved.
Prolly the higher end customs address that.

I go by the tip and check the sides for being close to rubbing.

This newly acquired custom has me baffled.
I tried loosening everything and doing the Strider trick by applying torque up and torque down on the scales, holding then tightening.
No joy.
If I didn't know better either the blade is ground off or it is twisted or bent.
But it doesn't appear defective. Looking at it opened.
The spaces at the pivot look right.

I have an email out to the maker.
When I get the answer I Will.. Update the thread.
 
No but your avatar suggests you like to have your squirrel and honey done juicy
 
Been waiting for a reply from the maker. But My curiosity got the better of me.
I reasoned that I might be the first person to take it down....Duh and
Just put it back together after cleaning and use some Reeve grease.
Though the maker adverts dry running is the design.

No change in centering.
It is the sort of Sebenza like close tolerance machined product.
I took it down again and switched the direction of the pivot sleeve.
No Joy.

I also switch the blade facing side of the thrust bearings.
This is where I don't want to get it wrong.

If the blade steel is super S90 V but the titanium frame is soft, I chose to put the balls out side of the bearing cage
Towards the titanium and the cage (entry side of the bearing cage) towards the blade.

Both ways produce no real noticable difference in the smooth feel of the knife.
If there is a certain orientation to these thrust bearings I would like to get that advise.
Like I said I am no doubt the first person to reassemble this and with my little experience,
I wanted to try all possibilities in an effort to bring the blade into center.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top