Offset and SpecBump Questions

B

Bolt

Joined
Aug 28, 2007
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Hey guys, I am still up in the air about the offset and specbump. How is the thumb stud lock? Is it strong? Stronger than a liner lock? What if debris gets in the thumb stud? How about the steel on the offset? What makes it so special?
Any help on these issues will be great thanks.
 
I don't know about strength, but I have more confidence in the stud lock than a liner lock.

The steel in the Offset is remarkable for its geometry, if not composition. I also prefer the blade shape to that of the Bump.
 
I'm also very interested. I always prefer helical spring construction (I'm assuming the stud lock is one) compared to omega spring construction (axis,ultra and arc lock). I am under the impression that helical springs are more durable (can stand repeated cycles of loading). That's why I'm interested in the stud lock and ball lock (of Spyderco) for my future pruchases)

Guys oh guys can you wise ones (or at least owners of stud locks :)) shed some light on this new (new for me at least) technology? How secure does it feel? How strong is it? Any reports or rumors (it's ok, just want to know) of successes or even failures? :)
 
Thanks mate. Though normally lock don't fail (assuming a decent brand knife) under normal use I understand the need for a standard in determining units (capacity) of lock strength like the 'failure machine'. Typically vertical (up and down) and horizontal (left and right) capacity will be determined.

SPXTrader said:
This question of lock strength seems to keep coming up a lot recently...

Owning Kershaws with frame, stud and liner locks, I've got to say that there's really no way any of these locks would fail under even the hardest of everyday use. In using very sharp and pointy knives that can cause bodily harm, it's a good thing to visually inspect and clean your knives on a regular basis. STR has a good way to test your knives without whacking them against a table.

Somewhere I remember one of the Kershaw guys talking about a "failure machine" or something similar that they used to test the amount of force it takes to make their locks fail. It was some ungodly high number. Perhaps Thomas or Tim will address this again.
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As said by many forumites, this may not be useful (since sliplocks also function well) but perhaps with some figures in hand perhaps a minimum capacity (design standard or code of practice) can be determined for many reason, safety being one of them. Basically the problem isn't how strong is lock or folder design (at the pivot area) but can be put a number to it?
 
I think this is the quote SPX was referring to.
Tim Galyean said:
have tested the Studlock against all of our other locks and it is near the top of the list.We have built a custom lock breaking machine to test locks and every one of our knives goes through this test. The Spec Bump will out preform any liner lock on the market.
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To answer some of the original poster's questions...

If debris gets into the lock mechanism, the entire mechanism is exposed, you can see it and pick out or knock loose anything that gets in.

As for the Offset's blade steel, it is Metal Injection Molded 440C-PM Stainless Steel with a Tungsten DLC coating (according to the Kershaw site).

The Metal Injection Molding allows for a very complex 3D geometry in an affordable production blade. It takes quite a bit of very difficult hand grinding to achieve the same geometry in a conventionally made blade (have a look at the custom versions on Ken Onion's website).

Here's a link to a thread with an explanation of the MIM process.
 
the stud lock might be a bit sticky at first (I had trouble getting mine to disengage) but it is now my favorite type of lock (hawk lock pending)
 
Hey the lock is exposed :)

My lockback (Voyager) failed to lock cause some stuff from my pocket got stuck inna hole thingy, my CS recon and AK47 both have had stuff stuck in there (didn't affect lock but darn irritating and a pain to get out) and my liners are all sticky or far right!

I'll give it a go then, anyone know which model (knife) is a good introduction to the stud lock, hopefully not too expensive. Maybe around 50 or less? FYI 50 bucks is a lot of money in my country!
 
In a small knife, you can't go wrong with the Mini Mojito (or Mini Mojo if still out there). It has a great shape and perfect proportions. It also has a simple to use safety that is integrated into the flipper.

You may be able to find the full size Speed Bump (either the 1595 with the Akulon/Santoprene handle or the 1595ALBK with the Aluminum handles) for about the same price though.
 
I'm 100% in agreement with kneedeep. The Mojo/Mojito (1800) is a great knife. Sandy carries one, and we're giving one away as a present this weekend. It's got a really neat internal safety built in with the flipper. In case you don't know, the Mojo is 440A steel and the Mojito is 13C26. We both have the Mojos. It seems most dealers have the 440A in stock, and if you wander into the minefield for one and it says Mojito in the listing, ask the specific question before you bid. Can be found for around $ 60. The Speed bump is a good sized knife, with 13C26. I have the aluminum handled one (1595ALBLK). It's handle seems to be thinner than the Akulon/Santoprene handled models. It lays very flat in your pocket, and these can be found at the minefield auction site for around $ 50.
 
What if debris gets in the thumb stud?
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I haven't got any knife with a stud lock, but I would think that debris in the spring wouldn't make the lock less reliable, perhaps only more difficult to close it.

The only fear I would have with this lock is that it looks like there is a small chance of pushing the studd accidently thus unlocking the knife when stabbing into something.
But because the stud isn't thick and doesn't "stand out", I don't think this fear is justified.
Any thoughts about the possibility of unlocking it by accident from stud lock users?
 
buckabee said:
I haven't got any knife with a stud lock, but I would think that debris in the spring wouldn't make the lock less reliable, perhaps only more difficult to close it.

The only fear I would have with this lock is that it looks like there is a small chance of pushing the studd accidently thus unlocking the knife when stabbing into something.
But because the stud isn't thick and doesn't "stand out", I don't think this fear is justified.
Any thoughts about the possibility of unlocking it by accident from stud lock users?
Click to expand...

The only time I see potential for this is if you've buried the knife so deeply into something that the stud lock itself is buried...withdrawing the knife at that point could pull the lock in the direction of the tip, releasing it. Probably not too common a scenario...:D

Ray :)
 
From my experience the lock is more likely to jam in the locked position (from abuse) than to come undone. Probably one of the best lock designs in the business.

while I haven't done any spine whacks, sometimes I like to see how fast I can open the knife, and sometimes it'll stick the lock a bit, but a good firm push with my thumb will open the lock back up, not real "jams" that may cause undue difficulty.
 
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