Ohioan614 project thread

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Jan 31, 2015
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Here's what I've been working on. A 3 1/2# I received from Curt Hal.

All the work has been done with file and various grit sandpaper. About 6-8 hours in it so far.

Hafts showed up today.



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Nice work! Looks great. i do almost all my work with the files and sandpaper, so have great admiration for your approach. I have recently started respecting the effect of the wire cup and the drill or grinder, leaving the patina.

Those butt mushrooms were pretty substantial. Nice work filing them off so square!

Can't wait to see it with a new haft. I am glad the head got to someone who would restore it so nicely. The way things are going here, it would have taken me forever to get to it.
 
Wow! This one is not going to languish in the bed of your pickup truck in the aftermath of exerting that amount of time and effort. One thing about being slow and methodical (and not using power tools) is that the likelihood of making a 'real mess' is almost impossible. I like that and can say; Good for you!
 
Thanks! It won't be in the truck bed but it will get used. Guns are meant to be shot. Jewelry is meant to be worn. Tools are meant to be used.;)
 
Wow! This one is not going to languish in the bed of your pickup truck in the aftermath of exerting that amount of time and effort. One thing about being slow and methodical (and not using power tools) is that the likelihood of making a 'real mess' is almost impossible. I like that and can say; Good for you!

I like what was said here. I know you can work much faster with grinders and such, but there is something satisfying and therapeutic about using the hand tools. It makes the final product that much more pleasing. Now, if I was a working forester, I'm sure I would need a different approach.

I have found that files can make a difference. Nicholson makes a file called a Magicut. For rough work, like filing butt mushrooms, it is faster without being too rough. You can finish off with an 8" bastard file. I also use lots of sandpaper, from 80 to 2000 grit. Strictly personal choice, but I like to finish the poll and the edge, once its sharpened, with a good sanding, up to 2000. I like the shine it leaves on the two ends of the axe. I am now more inclined to leave the patina now rather than wanting to sand the whole head, unless its covered in rust.

I have also found that the 4 in hand is not so useful as a shop tool, although for bush work, it makes sense to carry one file rather than 4. I have heard that a good ferrier's rasp is great for working on handles. I am going to try this as shaping and paring down handles, especially the Garants we get in Canada, takes a lot of time.

One thing I learned the hard way too: take the time to see that the handle fits nicely into the eye before hammering the bottom of the handle to set it. When I first started, I wanted to get a super tight fit between the handle and the eye. In the process, I made it too tight and couldn't get good wedge penetration, and I cracked a couple of nice handles trying to pound them in.
 
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Thanks! It won't be in the truck bed but it will get used. Guns are meant to be shot. Jewelry is meant to be worn. Tools are meant to be used.;)

Excellent philosophy! You develop considerably more admiration and respect (plus an otherwise unique historical perspective) for the makers of an authentic tool that 'is still in use' than you do an NOS or pristine version that is hanging on the wall.
For decades I have tried (and sometimes succeeded) to pry unique and/or old classic guns loose from collectors in order to properly experience the difference between modern and truly old. Sitting in the woods, under the excuse of awaiting a deer/moose/caribou, with a bona fide Remington rolling block or an original 86 Winchester in hand makes for a whole new perspective. Replicas, no matter how well done, have never had this same Zen effect on me. 40 years ago at a yard sale I picked up a 96 Krag carbine and since then have never have any desire to buy into 'flavour of the month' or 'new-fangled' gear because that old girl did (and still does) shoot like proverbial gangbusters and has never had reliability issues like any and all autos, and I don't doubt , with a properly made and aimed round, that it'd quite capable of dropping an elephant.
 
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Excellent philosophy! You develop considerably more admiration and respect (plus an otherwise unique historical perspective) for the makers of an authentic tool that 'is still in use' than you do an NOS or pristine version that is hanging on the wall.
For decades I have tried (and sometimes succeeded) to pry unique and/or old classic guns loose from collectors in order to properly experience the difference between modern and truly old. Sitting in the woods, under the excuse of awaiting a deer/moose/caribou, with a bona fide Remington rolling block or an original 86 Winchester in hand makes for a whole new perspective. Replicas, no matter how well done, have never had this same Zen effect on me. 40 years ago at a yard sale I picked up a 96 Krag carbine and since then have never have any desire to buy into 'flavour of the month' or 'new-fangled' gear because that old girl did (and still does) shoot like proverbial gangbusters and has never had reliability issues like any and all autos, and I don't doubt , with a properly made and aimed round, that it'd quite capable of dropping an elephant.

I like this post. I had an old Ithaca pump like that. And an old Lee Enfield that I loved to strip and clean. It never failed. (Not sure it would drop an elephant.) My main guitar is also a lovely handmade by Grit Laskin of Toronto. It was made in 1975 and has seen some rough days, but it sounds perfect and immediately feels comfortable to play.
 
totally possible to bring it back but you would end up with a smaller head, which is no big deal since it was huge to begin with. Just be cautious with the over heating and in keeping everything flat and square.
or you could leave as is and hang on a wall.
 
As I look at it, I see a line where the hardened meets the mild. I am afraid of snapping it with use.
 
A broad axe doesn't get subjected to hurricane forces the way a felling axe does. I wouldn't be worried about breaking off the bit or anything. The issues I see with that axe are the pitting and the profile. From the picture it looks like the center of the bit is filed back. Thats a problem, but it may go away by the time you get rid of all the pitting. Pitting on the bevel is not important, but really heavy pitting on the flat means you have to remove a lot of metal to get a sharpenable edge.
 
if its double bevel (god, why do some people ruin such good broad axes?) then you will already have to remove alot of material to make it flat again. it is a risky (if using power sander, cool down in water alot and often) and lenghty restauration, but it might be worth it in the end. whatever you do, dont use angle grinder or handheld grinder, these turn way too fast and will burn the steel/remove the heat treatment. Im afraid you are heading down a long and painful road if you want to fix this head...
 
I like this post. I had an old Ithaca pump like that. And an old Lee Enfield that I loved to strip and clean. It never failed. (Not sure it would drop an elephant.) My main guitar is also a lovely handmade by Grit Laskin of Toronto. It was made in 1975 and has seen some rough days, but it sounds perfect and immediately feels comfortable to play.
The Ithaca 37s precede the company's foray into semis. What this means is that the trigger mechanism allows for holding back the trigger and pumping for all you're worth and having the darn thing go off every time the breach closes. Winchester model 12s are like that too!
Lee Enfield will drop an elephant no problem! During the late 1800s 303 was considered a high velocity high power round and various big game hunters roamed through Africa trying to prove they were equal or better than 45 cal nitro express numbers that cost a small fortune.
 
Ill be honest with you, the handle fit looks great but the kerf being offset like this, the very slim wedge and the gaps at the back of the eyes makes me say you should either metal wedge this heavily or redo the wood wedge. Just saying what i would do if it was mine.

Great work on the head itselt tho!
 
there seem to be a gap at each end which makes it even worst... what you could do is pull the wedge out, recut the kerf to make it more centered and use a thicker wedge that would fill your frontal gap and read gap and if thats not enough, metal wedge it.

as of now i dont think a metal wedge would be enough to fill the gaps it would only prevent you from fixing it.
 
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