Ohioan614 project thread

I'd say for a first attempt, you did a nice looking job! I would agree with Remzy, especially from a safety perspective. Once the kerf was recut and there was more wedge in there, you might carefully cut some pieces of wedge and tap them down into the eye. Once that was all done, a good 48 hour soak in BLO would likely tighten it up nicely. Good work, though. There is a steep learning curve with the first few.
 
Hold up. Is there actually a gap in the rear of the eye? Or is that just a lighting thing in the pic? I wouldn't necessarily be concerned with the thickness of the wedge if it's a good hang, particularly given your fit at the bottom. When you seated the head, had the kerf closed? When you seated the head, was it very tight (could you pull it by hand without a struggle?)? When you drove the wedge, did it have a sound like driving a nail (that change in pitch sound with each blow)? Is there very much wedge in there and was it difficult to drive? How did you drive it? Did the wedge bottom out? These are my personal check list questions.
 
There is the slightest of gaps, maybe 1/32" at most at the back of the eye.

The kerf was about a 1/16" at the point of wedging. The kerf was about 3/4" up from the bottom of the head.

If I rocked the head I could get it off, but it to about 30 seconds to working the head off to get it free at the end of fitting. It did rock back and forth.


Finally got it down far enough on the shoulder for what my eye liked. I set the head by hitting the butt of the handle 10 or so times with a 2x4. Left some decent marks on the 2x4. I cut very little of the nub on top of the eye. Just scribbed it to the shortest point.

Yes the pitch changed as I drove the wedge. Used a rubber mallet. Thought it might have bottomed out in the end but the last few times it moved I needed to hit it 2 or 3 times to get it to move. My gut told me the pitch would rise one more time before it was soild. Hit it like 8-10 times. Wouldn't budge.

It's been sitting in BLO just covering the bottom of the head for over 24hrs. Might get a chance to pull it late tonight. Might be tomorrow. Stupid work. (Actually I really like my job.)
 
Hello again Ohioan

Id just like to say again that you did a good job, but it still could be improved upon, im just suggesting things and you are free to do as you will, however, when redoing the handle fit, i would suggest lowerering the head down the shoulder to remove the hole at the top of the tip along with my previous suggestion of widening the wedge.

Just my 2cents.
 
There is the slightest of gaps, maybe 1/32" at most at the back of the eye.

The kerf was about a 1/16" at the point of wedging. The kerf was about 3/4" up from the bottom of the head.

If I rocked the head I could get it off, but it to about 30 seconds to working the head off to get it free at the end of fitting. It did rock back and forth.


Finally got it down far enough on the shoulder for what my eye liked. I set the head by hitting the butt of the handle 10 or so times with a 2x4. Left some decent marks on the 2x4. I cut very little of the nub on top of the eye. Just scribbed it to the shortest point.

Yes the pitch changed as I drove the wedge. Used a rubber mallet. Thought it might have bottomed out in the end but the last few times it moved I needed to hit it 2 or 3 times to get it to move. My gut told me the pitch would rise one more time before it was soild. Hit it like 8-10 times. Wouldn't budge.

It's been sitting in BLO just covering the bottom of the head for over 24hrs. Might get a chance to pull it late tonight. Might be tomorrow. Stupid work. (Actually I really like my job.)

Sure, we can all get better. I rehung almost every one of my axes at least once up until the last handful - and that's not to say in a a few months or a year I'll be dissatisfied again. But, as far as will the axe stay hung, I think it sounds like you're fine. I ask these questions because it's more about what is physically happening inside more than tell tale signs on the outside. Sounds like you had to work just to pull the head at the end, then seated it one final time and drove the wedge. That sounds right to me, though I'm usually looking for a fit before wedge where I essentially can't get the head off by hand. With that said, I have successfully hung axes where the head slid on 3/4 into position easily. Plus, you heard the nail driving sound, that means you are fitting it tight .... like prom night. And that's what it's all about IMO. If your impression is that the wedge hadn't yet bottomed out, but was close, then to me that means you got it where you want it. If the wedge bottoms out, then how do you know you couldn't have driven it further, right? Nothin stopping you from running it for awhile, and rehanging it latter if it no longer meets your own personal standards. If it does and continues to work well for your needs, then you nailed it. Also, you can look down the head of your axe to see if the handle is visually bulging at the top. You can forget all the rest, if the handle is bulging then you know without a doubt, you wedged it tight, plenty tight for an axe.

Note in the middle picture the wood appears to flare out from the eye. I feel absolutely confident swinging this axe, yet when the handle was sent to me the eye/tongue had been turned down so small that the head slipped on and off.
plumbcruiser_wedge by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr
 
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Moving on....

Broadaxe ended up being a wall hanger. Interesting thought, the hardened pole was a surprise.




Late Grandfather's. Salvageable?





Also my Grandfather's. Ideas on the hammer face or the marking. The top arch is "C-H-A???" The bottom reads cast steel.




 
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Nice job on the wedge Cityofthesouth if everyone took the time to leave some handle protruding out the front of the eye, there would be far less chance of the handle moving in the eye and it makes it easier to get the wedge out as well. I am still getting used to your US terminologies.
 
Nice job on the wedge Cityofthesouth if everyone took the time to leave some handle protruding out the front of the eye, there would be far less chance of the handle moving in the eye and it makes it easier to get the wedge out as well. I am still getting used to your US terminologies.

Yeah I fell like it's a good practice.
To Ohioan, forgive me for dropping pics in your thread, hopefully it came across encouraging as that was my intent.
 
Shame for the broad axe, but it would make a really cool wall hanger nevertheless. :)

keep up the good work.
 
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COTS- No worries. Any input is appreciated.

Third coat of BLO is on. Hung the ridged eye yesterday. http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1261540-cleaning-up-the-eye. Mix some rosewood water based stain into the BLO. First coat looks like it was not a food mix or I didn't use enough.

Pics of the hang.





The pencil line in the bottom photo was my bottom out line. The first wegde I use was a chisel shape @2.5*.
This one was a double bevel @5*. Thinking I need to find a happy medium. Ended up using a framer to get it in that far. Mallet wasn't getting it done. I did the fitting with two flat washers in the kerf to hold it open.
 
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That's an easy ID for me- 2# C. Hammond. I've got one right now myself!
tumblr_nl4bn0HCkW1u5el4mo3_540.jpg
 
300, black walnut I got out of the firewood pile. I've had it for 2 years. No idea as to how long it was cut before that. Same piece as the first.

Axe master, is your hammer head as chewed up as mine? Was yours harded?
 
First project.









Second project. I'll put up pictures of the fit later. The last coat of tung was drying when I took these. Changed up the technique some between the two. Not intentionally but I like this better.
 
I talked to my Dad and uncle for permission before I started in on my Grandfather's tools.
My uncle came up with a lot out of his barn. Any info on the stamp.





 
Very cool head. I have a Cayuga double bit and they seem great. They date between 1928 and 1952 if I remember correctly.
 
Oop...good call...different Cayuga brand! Mine is a Barker Ross and Kimball. Interesting!
 
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