Oil for your khukuri (my own recommendation to others)

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Sep 11, 2014
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Hi guys,after using variety of oils on my high carbon blades,i come across one product that i wish to recommend for conservation and long lasting protection 151 Super Grease.I am posting along few pictures,this stuff is highly adhesive to blade and unlike 3in1 oil or some others,like WD40 etc.does not come down from blade at all,like normal oils...Even blade is sheated and unsheated number of times,grease is still on protecting the blade...From time to time i just spread it with palms of fingers arround the edge...very reliable long lasting stuff and i wish to share this with you.

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the thing I have found to be the most "sticky" without really bothering me is japanese sword oil-- I think it is called choji oil? I bought a bottle from an importer after someone recommended it ; and it never fails me-- it even seems to do extremely well treating old rusty swords, preventing further oxidization after cleaning.

so really the best oil I have used is the choji oil, my general go too oil is ballistol or food grade mineral oil ; but the choji goes on all my mandau and finer antiques-- as well as my older HI-- best part of the oil is how thin it is, total opposite of mineral oil in consistency-- after application you can wipe off with a dry rag and the oil is still clinging to the steel.
 
I just use Hoppes #9 because I have been using for years on my guns. It doesn't leave a film behind and stays on for a good long time. I love the smell of Hoppes #9 solvent, its almost like perfume to me. I wish their oil had a smell to it like their solvent :D

I was using Militech 1 but it leaves a film behind which is nice for corrosion protection but not for a full polished blade. It leaves it dull.
 
SeriousNo1, Thank you for the recommendation. I also have a favorite that I have used for years on guns and I have started to use mineral oil on knives because of the fact I can use it on knives I use with food items. However, I love knowing about other options that are available so I will definately check into the 151 Super Grease. More knowledge is always a good thing so even if I don't decide to switch to it, I appreciate the information about it.
Thanks
 
Camellia oil from Japan, for the stuff I make and my favorites otherwise.
Its sold in woodworking outlets mostly-even has swords right on the bottle.image.jpg
Food grade, doesn't stain other stuff (much) and smells nice. Also turns active rust black.
 
my bad, JW is the guy who recommended it and its camelia oil not choji-- best stuff I have ever used--- its action on active rust is amazing, and very helpful--- also gurkha I grew up with hoppes #9 and love the smell as well, I use the camelia because I have so many animals and my workshop is full of cats!
 
Camellia oil from Japan, for the stuff I make and my favorites otherwise.
Its sold in woodworking outlets mostly-even has swords right on the bottle.View attachment 518816
Food grade, doesn't stain other stuff (much) and smells nice. Also turns active rust black.

How is it for corrosion protection, as compared to non-food-safe oils that might contain anti-corrosion additives?

Thanks,

Bill D.
 
I will have to give the Cammilia oil a try. It would be nice not having to worry about washing my hands before I do anything after handling solvents. Thanks for the tip.
 
WFD, ( I know you did not ask me but I am here lol )having used it on rust covered antiques , it works as good or better than toxic alternatives-- its quality is comparable to any of the good rust neutralizing oils used for guns
 
I will have to give the Cammilia oil a try. It would be nice not having to worry about washing my hands before I do anything after handling solvents. Thanks for the tip.

Only reason I ever wash my hands is if they get oily I have major brake failure, specially going down hill.

Get's real ugly sometimes.
 
SeriousNo1, Thank you for the recommendation. I also have a favorite that I have used for years on guns and I have started to use mineral oil on knives because of the fact I can use it on knives I use with food items. However, I love knowing about other options that are available so I will definately check into the 151 Super Grease. More knowledge is always a good thing so even if I don't decide to switch to it, I appreciate the information about it.
Thanks

Always happy to share my thoughts here with all of you Shavru,thanks.I just read guys are up to using Camelia oil,i'd have to order from online retailers one or two bottles of those only.So far i have used only oils widely available in general stores,but i never liked the fact they always leave the blade dry,after while,due to low viscosity and very weak adhesiveness...Thats why i find 151 oil grease very long lasting and like it very much...

Camelia oil is widely known for its purpose on protecting Japanese samurai swords,would you guys trust ebay shopping for this oil??? So as per your experience is it also highly adhesive and sticks to the blade for long time??? Thank you for good idea
 
the oil def sticks to the steel, much like hoppes or wd40, it is a very fine oil
 
Only reason I ever wash my hands is if they get oily I have major brake failure, specially going down hill.

Get's real ugly sometimes.
Joe, I know it's not funny when it actually happens....but that's funny.
Took me a second...
 
Gehazi-pretty sure choji oil is camellia with cloves in it. I'm used to shinken smelling like choji, so I keep a little bottle of camellia with 4 or 5 cloves in it.
The clove oil has a very slight darkening effect when it's used as a nugui (fiiiiiine iron oxide polish) suspension
 
the thing I have found to be the most "sticky" without really bothering me is japanese sword oil-- I think it is called choji oil? I bought a bottle from an importer after someone recommended it ; and it never fails me-- it even seems to do extremely well treating old rusty swords, preventing further oxidization after cleaning.

so really the best oil I have used is the choji oil, my general go too oil is ballistol or food grade mineral oil ; but the choji goes on all my mandau and finer antiques-- as well as my older HI-- best part of the oil is how thin it is, total opposite of mineral oil in consistency-- after application you can wipe off with a dry rag and the oil is still clinging to the steel.

Rem oil is sticky like that as well, I dislike that it collects lint and leaves a petroleum or silicon slick on the blade. Hoppes Weathergaurd does just as nice a job at protecting from rust, but doesn't collect dust or leave a slick like Rem Oil. Ballistol is the best stuff. :thumbup:
 
Only reason I ever wash my hands is if they get oily I have major brake failure, specially going down hill.

Get's real ugly sometimes.

:D... That would be a sight for sore eyes. Seeing Bawanna flying down a hill with no brakes. Somehow I think he would kind of enjoy it being such a daredevil and all. You need so install some hydraulic brakes in your chair. They can easily be converted from mountain bike disk brakes. I have seen a couple on youtube... Its really cool, the chair has disks on both sides like a motorcycles front wheel. The operator uses a thumb lever to brake when needed. Probably over kill but its always cool hooking up your ride.
 
, I use the camelia because I have so many animals and my workshop is full of cats!


I had a great cat for like 16 years, and near the end of her life I was cleaning pistols in a tiny kitchen in a tiny apartment and my cat came in to get a drink of water and said, phew whee, sounded just like a human when she said it. I switched to slip 2000 after that.
 
:D... That would be a sight for sore eyes. Seeing Bawanna flying down a hill with no brakes. Somehow I think he would kind of enjoy it being such a daredevil and all. You need so install some hydraulic brakes in your chair. They can easily be converted from mountain bike disk brakes. I have seen a couple on youtube... Its really cool, the chair has disks on both sides like a motorcycles front wheel. The operator uses a thumb lever to brake when needed. Probably over kill but its always cool hooking up your ride.

Hydraulic brakes+hill=Bawannapult
 
My favorite oil for guns and knives especially for long term storage is Du Lite Qwik Seal.

It has a waxing agent that prevents it from running, doesn't attract dust and even smells good.

Another plus is when you reapply the new stuff removes the old stuff and replaces it so it doesn't build up.

The down fall is I have a hard time finding the stuff. Been using Ballistol when I can't find it.
It's on line but you have to buy a case of it, a little overkill.

Many gun manufacturers and shops that do rebluing work use it to protect guns in transit and on the shelf and to help stop the bluing process.

I'm about to start a hunt for a power chair if I can get Labor and Industries to help. They won't long as I can run a manual chair but my hands, shoulders and stuff are getting some feeble.

I do hate everything that runs on a battery seems it's always dead at the most inopportune times.
At least with the manual, if I'm going it's going too.
 
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