Ok, damascus experts. Got a question for ya.

Danbo

Danbo

Joined
Nov 28, 1999
Messages
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I obtained a couple of large bars of Admiral L6(or, 8670) today, and plan on mixing it with something for damascus. What would be the best match, heat treat-wise? O1? Would W2 be too radically different in tempering temps?
 
O-1 and L-6 are as about as close as you can get in heat treating and give a nice contrast when etched !
 
IMO L-6 (or 15-N-20--very similar) are sweethearts to forgeweld.
From a HT perspective, L-6 and O-1 combo makes a lot of sense. I do NOT like using O-1 in a complicated billet that will require a lot of forge welding by hand (not in the press). In my experience, it's not as 'sticky' as other steels.
 
Danbo,
L-6 makes a really sweet damascus mix with O-1, 15n20 works with O-1 too.
However I have found that the stuff from admiral (8670) works best with w-1 or 1095. (or 1084 if you like that better) I've used 50 lbs or so of the stuff with w-1 or 1095 and it welds up pretty sweet.
Hope this helps,
Del
 
Hey Del,
Would the vanadium in W2 cause any problems?
 
delbert ealy said:
Danbo,
L-6 makes a really sweet damascus mix with O-1, 15n20 works with O-1 too.
However I have found that the stuff from admiral (8670) works best with w-1 or 1095. (or 1084 if you like that better) I've used 50 lbs or so of the stuff with w-1 or 1095 and it welds up pretty sweet.
Hope this helps,
Del
Click to expand...


I've made a number of billets with 8670 and 1095, and wasn't real happy with the contrast. 8670 and 1084 is much better.
Danbo, I suggest getting some 1084 from Aldo Bruno and mixing it with the 8670. Great price and great steel. He has the certs for it, so you know what you're getting. Admirals 1095 (at least the piece I had tested) has less carbon than Aldos 1084.
 
although I think anybody should be hesistant to volunteer to be a "damascus expert", I will give my input as a dabbler in it who is in a continuous state of learning.

The 8670m is an L6 "alternative", not L6. It is a good steel but does not have the same behavioral characteristics, so much so that I know there are those here who can witness that I noted this stuff was not Champaloy or R.D.S. well before the cat was let out of the bag by Admiral that it was not.

That being said it is good steel, but one needs to recognize the differences when partnering it. O1 works great with L6 for heat treating but there seems to be some divergence from the 8670m.

I have found that if one wants a nice contrast and a mix that you can almost get a good weld just by stacking it and setting in the sun too long, use the Admiral 1075 and their L6 alternative. I have taken to using this when I do pattern welding demos because it will make me look like I know what I am doing everytime. Welds that I would double down on with other steels I have done a sigle pass with a han hammer at demos and found the billet entirely welded despite my gut feeling that it can't be.

Heat the 8670m to critical and allow it to air cool and you will get a hardness equal to any air cooled 10XX series. Do this with O1, L6 or many other steels and you will get a much more significant increase in hardness. Heat the stuff and quench it in oil and you will easily get a 65HRC. I can't find a curve on this exact steel but I would say that it should be close in heat treat to something like 5160, although I would not mix it with that steel, for personal reasons, and the contrast would suck.

If it helps, I am using the 8670m with 1095, 1084 or 1075 in applications that require my pushing the damascus farther than my more finicky favorite would sometimes tolerate.
 
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