OK. Done with orders. Lets hash out some new policy.

On convex grinds I grind them before HT. I do Scandi's after the handle is attached and totaly finished.
 
BBQ BOY said:
When do you plan on doing another run in this manor?
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Fiddleback said:
Guys, two announcements:

1. I have pictures of the steel, and also of Dan laying out the knives, cutting the blanks to size, and profiling of the blades that I will post later today. I'm getting excited. Dan will drill the holes next week, and after that I will be grinding and heat treating this.

2. The second announcement is that this hasn't worked in this format. I'm going to finish this one run and scrap the idea. I have over 150 e-mails about this 10 knife run, and I've had dozens of phone calls as well. The overhead is already ten hours behond what the knives will take to make. Additionally, several knives on this run are not in any way going to fit into the idea of the thing. Every aspect of the knife has been dictated, and is nothing like what was offered. I thought this would allow folks that hadn't had luck getting the model they wanted, but it has just turned into a custom order run. I am not, and will never be taking custom orders. I've explained why this is bad business, and I am not going to start it. I may try to re-think the premise, but I think the best thing is to simply call this a failed experiment, finish the commitment, and move on.
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Basically everyone thought that Andy was doing a full blown custom order, in reality he was just going to let them pick which blade they wanted. But like Andy said in a latter post is that everyone started wanting pin placement here and there and it turned in to a full blown custom order just with the handle combo already picked out. Plus emails and all that crap. It sucks bc this would have been a way for people to get the knife they wanted, but all good things go awrye in time.
 
Andy, it looks like we lost the "profiling position" pic, which I would like to see. You mention that the geometry of it is important.

Later, a couple of you are sanding and wearing respirators - do you wear it pretty much all the time, or because another fella was making dust?

What type of respirator is it?

Is it staying fairly clear without scratching? My crappy faceshield and paintmask combo sucks. The faceshield is cumbersome and scratches easily. Lookin' to upgrade.

In addition, how do you treat your handle and tang before glue-up? Do you drill the tang to allow glue to grip, or roughen it, or what? Dimple the scales for the same thing? I've seen a bunch of different methods in use, but how do you do yours?

If you don't mind my askin... :)
 
chainring said:
Andy, it looks like we lost the "profiling position" pic, which I would like to see. You mention that the geometry of it is important.

Later, a couple of you are sanding and wearing respirators - do you wear it pretty much all the time, or because another fella was making dust?

What type of respirator is it?

Is it staying fairly clear without scratching? My crappy faceshield and paintmask combo sucks. The faceshield is cumbersome and scratches easily. Lookin' to upgrade.

In addition, how do you treat your handle and tang before glue-up? Do you drill the tang to allow glue to grip, or roughen it, or what? Dimple the scales for the same thing? I've seen a bunch of different methods in use, but how do you do yours?

If you don't mind my askin... :)
Click to expand...
And what glue or epoxy might you be using?
 
BBQ BOY said:
When do you plan on doing another run in this manor?
Click to expand...

BBQ BOY said:
Thanks ridge. I misunderstood something andy said in a latter post.
Click to expand...


Hey Bro. I learned a lot doing this project. What worked about this run was that it went quick, and payment was quick. I think this is mostly due to the one month time frame. I liked those two things a lot. I now wonder that the payments were ever made when I was taking orders because of the long wait time. This project stayed fresh, and I think that was very important. So tha was good. The things that needed refining, I think, are in my original post. Next time I am going to pre-make a run of handle scales. All the same. Then I am going to get blades ready normally, and when I have a good selection heat treated and ready, offer to match any blade to one of those handles for ten folks. I'm trying to help folks who are frustrated trying to get one of my knives. This gives them a bit more flexability, without much more management from my end. Thats the goal, at least. If y'all are game, I'll try that approach early in 2012.



chainring said:
Andy, it looks like we lost the "profiling position" pic, which I would like to see. You mention that the geometry of it is important.

Later, a couple of you are sanding and wearing respirators - do you wear it pretty much all the time, or because another fella was making dust?

What type of respirator is it?

Is it staying fairly clear without scratching? My crappy faceshield and paintmask combo sucks. The faceshield is cumbersome and scratches easily. Lookin' to upgrade.

In addition, how do you treat your handle and tang before glue-up? Do you drill the tang to allow glue to grip, or roughen it, or what? Dimple the scales for the same thing? I've seen a bunch of different methods in use, but how do you do yours?

If you don't mind my askin... :)
Click to expand...

OREGON FAL'ER said:
And what glue or epoxy might you be using?
Click to expand...

Good questions. On the respirator, all dust particles are bad for your lungs. Hand sanding is no different. I wear that damn mask every minute I'm in the 'dusty processes' area of the shop. That is exactly why it was so important to seperate the shop, and have a 'not dusty processes' area. Finally, during marking, or glueup, or sheathmaking, or photo taking, or web surfing, you could take off the mask. I have both a half face, and full face respirator. I sometimes get irritated with the face shield, and switch to the half. When I'm grinding, or doing handle shaping though, the full face goes back on. It keeps stuff out of your eyes, and really isn't any heavier. I haven't found some 'brand' to stick with. I usually get them from MSC supply, and buy the one that seems to have replacement parts available. The face shield gets changed often. I don't like the protector sticker you can get because it attracts dust (static electricity) even worse than the stock shield.

No way around this PITA truth about knife making guys. Get a good mask and wear it always. Chainring, be careful with these dusts my friend. They are killers. A paper mask is not sufficient.

I'll have to get pictures of the tang. I think how you prep it is very important. I hollow it out a smidge with a wheel at 36 grit, and clean and rough the rest with a 36 grit on a flat platten. Either of these can ruin a blank, so hold your breath, and get it right. I'll get pics for you.

I use 30 minute epoxy on my handles. I also have acraglass, but haven't decided to switch yet.
 
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Awesome, thanks for the info!

I say "paint mask" because it's the old respirator I bought a long time ago to deal with paint fumes....probably not exactly what I need, but better than nothing.

Looks like this:

Mask.jpg


I want one of the integrated versions like you show...
 
Matt, that one can work. I have one pretty similar to it. You just need to get the P100 filters which you can buy at Home Depot or get cheaper on line. When I first started I just used the paper mask but not any more. The handle dust is especially nasty.
 
Thats a half face, and is fine. Get the blue ones, and they are more comfortable.
 
Well I went and picked up my Runt on my lunch break today... I'll post a better review once I have a chance to use it, but I'll say that I picked a sweet little knife. Thanks Andy and the rest! Who made the sheath, by the way?
 
Excellent. Glad you like them.
 
Got a note from the postman saying he tried to deliver my Bushcrafter. Dammit!
 
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