ok give up some know how!

v-6

v-6

Joined
Nov 24, 2007
Messages
952
just wanting to know how the pro's would and do , finish stabilized box elder burl. i'm at the point for finishing it and need some pro help.
vern:confused:
 
Sand to at least 800 grit and then buff lightly with pink scratcless compound.
 
Most everything I use is boxelder burl. I like to sand to 220 or 400 and then add teak oil until it won't take anymore. Then a coat of lacquer based sanding sealer, 400 again, 800,1000,1500,2000, light buff with fabulustre. 800grit will work but not even close to as nice as the 2000.
What works for me.
Matt
 
Matt
I agree with you the higher you go the better the fin ish.Also his is stabilized so no need for the sealer.
 
Sounds like I need to invest in some finer paper. Where do you usually find the best deals and largest selection?
 
I find all that high grit stuff at Pep Boys auto supply...if that kinda 3M wet/dry paper works for your purposes. www.trugrit.com has some good stuff.
 
i used klingspor ao jflex 120 240 and 400 and they feel real smooth, but you thing i need to go higher? i Stopped in the middle?
vern
 
For sanding and hand polishing wood and ivory, nothing beats the 3M sanding cloths. They are those colored sheets that come in a pack from 400 to 8000 grit. They are phenomenal.
Stacy
 
not that I'm a pro or anything
but most material I use that is stabilized and many times not stabilized .
I go to a 400 on a j flex belt on the belt grinder
and then maybe or maybe not depending on how it came out,hand sand with 600-700 grit to touch it up,then buff with white rouge, I personally don't use the pink
it tends to leave a little duller finish , I'll do same with bone and Ivories with bone you'll have to watch out for the blood vessel holes they will fill up on you and leave dark spots if not stabilized first and sometimes even then you'll want to fill the holes with S/glue or similar stuff.
there is nothing wrong with coating with a finish after, I just haven't seen the need to.. of course it depends how well the material is conditioned too.
keep in mind while buffing you can transfer say brass from a guard to the say Bone and dirt it up.. bone is bad for that.. to make life easyer
buff the soft stuf first then work on the harder materials of the handle last
just my 2 cents
 
bladsmth said:
For sanding and hand polishing wood and ivory, nothing beats the 3M sanding cloths. They are those colored sheets that come in a pack from 400 to 8000 grit. They are phenomenal.
Stacy
Click to expand...

stacy where would i get some
vern
 
bladsmth said:
For sanding and hand polishing wood and ivory, nothing beats the 3M sanding cloths. They are those colored sheets that come in a pack from 400 to 8000 grit. They are phenomenal.
Stacy
Click to expand...


damn stacy
you mean I'm going to have to go to a higher grit now :confused:
I only carry up to 2000 grit :confused: :D:D
 
you can also get some good buys here on wet / dry A/O if you buy 50 and 100 packs here

ECON-ABRASIVES
1-800-367-4101

last I knew about .23 cents a sheet.. I bought alot the last time so it's been a while on the pricing..
 
I've been taking to 400-600 grit with sandpaper then using small Micromesh washable sheets to what they call 12000 grit (but their scale is different). In my experience 400 grit makes things smooth but the real luster in stabilized and hard oily woods starts to appear around 800 and gets more intense as you go up.

Going up the grits with Micromesh goes pretty fast if the initial finish is good. Like buffing it will make scratches that you missed earlier really stand out. Then you have to go back to sandpaper to clean them up and start again.

Of course the wood also gets darker -- I'm almost done with a tulipwood handle that I'm leaving at 400 because I want to keep the lighter color.
 
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