Ok got some nice quality new kinves- Best, simplest, easy way to sharpen

J

JDMiller

Joined
Jul 3, 2015
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278
I have several stones and a 1000 grit ceramic stone

Lately with getting new knives Id like to find easiest, simple way, to keep a nice sharp edge on my new knifes

What about these wire through the hole set angle gismos like lansky, KME, DMT?

Or buy a 1x30 harbor freight belt sander? What grit belt? A leather belt too?

Lately for my old kitchen knives seems the ceramic coffee mug bottom works better than anything

Whats with sand paper on a mouse pad? Is that used like a strop? ? ? Seems like the mouse bad cushion would make the blade dull slicing inward..?

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For me, the best, simplest, easiest way is with the Ken Onion Work Sharp. If I can get nice, sharp convex edges using this method, anyone can.
 
I wondered about the Ken Onion Work Sharp too.

Just watched the video on it. It "Looks" good. The angle holder seems like what I need, and adjustable. I like the speed adjustment too...

Free handing with stones is so frustrating. Some days I seem to just make a knife duller

Ive been wondering if just forget these stones, and just sharpen using a a power driven belt device
 
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I use automotive sandpaper, and freehand sharpen. Sometimes I'll use the mouse pad, but usually I just lay the sandpaper on something flat and go to town :).

And with sandpaper you do go "backwards" like you do on a strop. The mouse pad is used if you want to convex the edge, since it has a bit of "give" to it.

I'm sure there are other "better" ways to sharpen, but I've been able to keep my knives at least shaving sharp with $3 worth of sandpaper, so it seems like a high value way to sharpen for me at least.

Good luck finding something that works for you :).
 
Don't abandon the stones. You aren't going to pack a sander or system into the woods and A/C outlets can be a bit hard to find. ;)

A 1x30 belt sander would be more versatile if you get into mod'ing and restoring.

When using the mouse pad method, strokes are always pulled backward, not pushing forward. The flexibilty of the pad allows the sandpaper to curve toward the edge, convexing it. But don't apply too much pressure or it will indeed curve too much and remove the edge.
 
My personal favorite is a dmt diamond stone followed by about 30-60 minutes on a leather strop while relaxing at night
 
I bought a Green bar rouge at the hardware store 'bout a month ago, for my piece of old leather belt

Is this Dico Green good for knife strope?

Image doesnt show actual bar just the package
848314-20140622061150-dico-green-rouge-buffing-compound.jpg


http://dicoproducts.com/compounds.html

Just used it on a old belt laying on my desk, rubbed some green Dico on, and stroped a condor knife and a old hickory kitchen knife

Maybe my old tough fingers are weird but I didnt think the two knives were that sharp fingering them,,, but both sliced long, thin little ribbons easy on a piece of cheap printer paper.:eek:

Sorry, Im just lately getting into "really" trying to sharpening knives really good with a fine and polished edge





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Green is good.

Instead of 'resharpening' a blade, especially an EDC folder, give it a few strokes on a strop with green compound. It's usually all it needs.
 
Daddyo16 said:
For me, the best, simplest, easiest way is with the Ken Onion Work Sharp. If I can get nice, sharp convex edges using this method, anyone can.
Click to expand...

This. I still use a stone to maintain an edge on my BK's, but for reprofilling or putting a polished edge on a blade that is super sharp, hard to surpass the KOW. One you've got the edge you want on the KO, just have a small stone in your pocket when you go out in the field as you would with any blade.

I use the worksharp field sharpener when out and about.
 
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I've been using a spyderco sharp maker for 4 years now. Just touched up my bk11 last night. Puts a shaving sharp edge on all my knives. Very simple to use compact and portable.
 
My appreciation for the KOW is out of laziness and with an understanding of it's limitations, lack of portability, need for electricity and not too accommodating for precise angles on thick stock.

DMT stones are portable, don't need electricity and can get an edge quickly.

I do not fancy myself a knife sharpening expert or even an afficianado but between the two above referenced sharpening methods and Becker's 1095 CroVan - I'm usually good to go in short order.
 
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The work sharp is probably one of the easier methods, but it does take some practice to get right. The KME guided system is foolproof, more so than some of the competitors. My vote is KME for a beginner, as it does help you to get a better understanding of the process, which ultimately leads to sharper knives.
 
I was looking at the KME the other day

http://kmesharp.com/kmeknshsy.html

I guess my issue is Id like to hold a constant angle as I can. Even one of those little plastic angle guides(Smith) you can set on the stone seems like it might help give you a guide.
see below
db_file_img_432_600xauto.jpg


I made a strop and coated it with green rouge, and I think its a good thing to use to touch up a blade


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Any suggestions on sharpening the patrol machete? It's big and a little unwieldy when trying to sharpen. Mainly need the sharpen the belly area, the part near the handle, the draw knife area as I like to think of it, seems to be good as it gets less use.
 
JPate said:
Any suggestions on sharpening the patrol machete? It's big and a little unwieldy when trying to sharpen. Mainly need the sharpen the belly area, the part near the handle, the draw knife area as I like to think of it, seems to be good as it gets less use.
Click to expand...
You could build a large cross-stick sharpener.

Here's mine that I use for my RBK, BK9, and BK5s.
aabb18b7-ae61-4f22-8db7-35d90265d562_zpssq81olse.jpg
 
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