ok I'm ready

Evan Martin

Evan Martin

Joined
Aug 6, 2007
Messages
521
Alright I'm ready to start making my on blades I am about to order some steal
not sure but probably 1075 or 1095 but I have some questions like which is better is there much difference? Which is harder or whats is the Rc hardness when hardened? Do I need to anneal it before I work with it whats the best oil to quench with? I just thought of it I have a machine shop within 300 yards of my house the can harden it if I don't want to I'm sure

thanks for any input evan
 
Not to hijack the thread, but it would help me, as well as others, if you stated WHERE you would get said steel.
 
HR means hot rolled, and Cra is cold rolled. Cold rolled is 'cleaner' steel, with no scale on it, and usualy closer to precison ground than not, where as hot rolled steel is usualy a bit on the thicker side, and has a layer of fire scale on the outside of it.
 
Another question for ya. Stock Removal or Forging? 1075 is supposed to be around .75% carbon while 1095 is supposed to be around .95%. If you can get a certified chemical analysis then it might be worth it. !095 also has a bit less manganese which make it a bit shallow hardening. For a knifemaker dealing with thin cross sections it does not make a difference. Both steels are great and can make a wonderful blade. HRA= hot rolled annealed, comes with surface scale. CRA+cold rolled annealed, no scale. If you are forging HRA will be fine if grinding CRA is easier. As far as the finish is concerned, I know makers that grind or forge the profile then HT and grind in the hardened state. Have to keep it cool and work carefully though. It depends on how much you want to do before and after HT. I would recommend finishing to at least 120 grit but not more than 220, if you are ht in an open flame. If using a ht oven then you can just about finish it and use a coating to protect the surface from scale. I would recommend doing a few searches about the subject and maybe do some practice pieces.

Good Luck

Chuck

Chuck
 
Admiral's 1075 blade steel is sheared from plate so it has nice square edges and flat surfaces. This is good for stock removal because you won't have to buy the next size up to compensate for grinding off the rounded edge that their 5160 has.No scale to speak of either. I would go with 1075 because it will be easier to work with, especially when heat treating. The couple of people who have bought 1075 knives from me have been happy with the edge it takes which is good news because my heat treating methods are still a tad imprecise:D Admiral has 1 1/4 x 1/4 stock which, in my opinion, gets you where you need to be for about 75% of the knives you would make. If you are going to make knives that have a choil, 1 inch stock will limit you to VERy small knives with thin handles. As for sanding, you want to take it down to at least 120 grit if not 220 before heat treating.
 
so 1095 has more carbon there for properly HT it should make a better cutting blade as long as I use no more than 1/4 inch stock because it is a shallow harding metal or does it matter
 
I read something recently I'm going to try to find it. It said 1050 to 1095 when brine quenched could reach a Rc hardness of 60-65 and slightly less with oil
My question is would it be better to use the brine or whould anyone no the difference if I used the oil
 
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