OK, it's not enough to sharpen anymore

[BChou-E29]

Off topic a bit-- I just bought a Harbor-Freight mortiser and took it back immediately after getting it set up. I have no reservations about saying it is without a doubt the most pathetic tool I have ever had the misfortune of trying to get to work, and I have used many in the last 63 years. From top to bottom this Harbor Freight power tool is just pure garbage. I hope I don't get some Chinese workers executed by posting this. I would say it is consumer fraud that cost me 300-plus miles of driving to and fro, plus a lot of time wasted. Odd because I have a half-ton truck crane and a 12-ton pipe bender of theirs, and they are okay, which is why I went to get the mortiser.

Sorry to hear that Miles, but thats usually how it is with HF. A lot of their stuff, like their hand tools are pretty decent for the money but their power tools, not so much...

Jonnymac, if you dont have any already, I'd invest in a good selection of silicon carbide or aluminum oxide sand paper. You're going to be using a lot of it when you polish your knives. I would get 120, 220, 320, 400, and 600 grit to start out with. Good luck!

 

[jonnymac44]

Okay, I got up the nerve to start the bevel grinding on my mini santoku I ground at about 45 degrees and brought the edge down pretty close and have done several passes on each side at a slightly smaller angle to walk the grind up a little higher and now I'm nervous. I don't want to mess this one up, so how about a little input? Any last minute pieces of advice before I continue?

By the way, most grinding I see is done edge up, spine down. Does anybody grind edge down?

Edit to add: One other question, any opinions on distal taper and when to do it? On my first couple practice blanks I did it by applying more pressure at the tip end of the knife and ease up as I moved toward the tang. Does anybody here grind in a distal taper before even beginning to grind the bevel?