Ok let's hear your views !!!!

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Apr 13, 2007
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I was just looking at Kgd's new Breeden knife ( what a great looking blade ) on his post and suddenly I thought ' nice knife but that ain't a Scandi grind it's a Sabre:confused: ', I then began searching the wonders of the internet for clarrification on the difference between a Scandi and a Sabre.
Man did that dig up a barrel of worms :eek:!!!!!!! Not wanting to spoil Kgd's thread I figured I'd better start my own and hear your views on the subject !!!!!;):thumbup:
 
I'm thinkin' you're right pitdog. Its a great looking knife but there is a secondary bevel which, IMO, full scandi grinds do not have.

Can one call a short sabre grind a scandi? Sure, just not a full scandi. Just like a convex grind with a secondary bevel can not be called a full convex.

Chris
 
Yes, I noticed the secondary bevel as well, which would not make it a true Scandi, although, I'm not sure what else you would call it. On that note, I've heard that some of the "Scandinavian" companies put out knives with very small secondary bevels, so...:confused:
 
Yes, I noticed the secondary bevel as well, which would not make it a true Scandi, although, I'm not sure what else you would call it. On that note, I've heard that some of the "Scandinavian" companies put out knives with very small secondary bevels, so...:confused:

That is true bro, so were does that leave us ? If the grind comes up more than a certain percentage of the overall blade height does it then become a Sabre grind ?
 
We're definitely swimming in confusing waters here.

This is how I understand the differences between the grinds:

  • A 'true' scandi grind will have a single bevel only, and this bevel will form the cutting edge.
  • A full flat grind will taper gradually from the spine towards the edge, effectively making the width of the blade a single bevel. The cutting edge is formed by a small secondary bevel.
  • A sabre grind strikes me as a combination of the two above grinds. A portion of the stock is left square (without a bevel) as with the scandi grind, but the primary bevel does not form the cutting edge. Rather, as with the flat grind, the cutting edge is formed by a secondary bevel.

At least, that's my take on it.

So, something that looks like a scandi grind but features a secondary cutting bevel is actually a sabre grind experiencing an identity crisis. Not that there's anything wrong with that ...

All the best,

- Mike
 
The key is the secondary bevel.
On a Scandi…no secondary bevel.
On a Saber…the secondary bevel forms the edge.

Now what about a Convex version…
…would that be a Convex Scandi?, or a Convex Saber?...
…or maybe just a half height convex grind?!!! :eek:




"If you're not living on the edge, …you're taking up too much space."

Big Mike
 
The key is the secondary bevel.
On a Scandi…no secondary bevel.
On a Saber…the secondary bevel forms the edge.

Now what about a Convex version…
…would that be a Convex Scandi?, or a Convex Saber?...
…or maybe just a half height convex grind?!!! :eek:




"If you're not living on the edge, …you're taking up too much space."

Big Mike

So 99% of the Scandi's on this forum are actually Sabre grinds ?:eek:
 
I think its just semantics. I think we can all at least partially agree that a "true"scandi is where the secondary grind forms the edge. Its easier for me to think of them as scandi "style" and sabre grind.

Seems scandi type knives have a very miniscule secondary bevel when they have them, something you could maintan with just a strop. Sabre grinds usually have a more robust, visible edge bevel.

I dont know, Im sure no expert, but I bet I could tell the two apart after carving with them:D

Gotta go find the knife refered to now!:foot::foot::D
 
I found it. Nice knife! Why thats a scabre-vex its the latest and greatest. Havnt you guys heard!?:D:D
 
OK, lets compare and see what the hell we're talking about here..

This is the best shot I could find of the Breeden at question.

You can make out both bevels.
DSC_0034-15.jpg


Here is a good shot at a Scandi grind no one will question.


and here is a Saber grind.



So now what say you....

I'm leaning towards the sharpest saber grind I have seen!
 
Yep, seems like a sabre to me.

And, a damn fine looking knife!

Semantically yours,

- Mike
 
G'day Pit

... I figured I'd better start my own and hear your views on the subject !!!!!;):thumbup:

I have a question for all the scandi enthusiasts.

If you are sharpening your scandis by hand, won't you end up with a convex edge?



Kind regards
Mick
 
If you are sharpening your scandis by hand, won't you end up with a convex edge?

I think it depends on your sharpening system. I use Japanese water stones and lay the bevel flat on the stone, pushing forward. It removes a consistent amount of steel across the bevel, and doesn't seem to produce a micro-bevel.

If you're using a ceramic stick system, sandpaper + mouse pad, and / or leather strop, I think you're much more likely to produce a micro bevel or convex edge.

All the best,

- Mike
 
G'day Mentor

I think it depends on your sharpening system. I use Japanese water stones and lay the bevel flat on the stone, pushing forward. It removes a consistent amount of steel across the bevel, and doesn't seem to produce a micro-bevel.

Thanks for the response :thumbup:

I take it your water stones are supported on some form of firm surface like a table?

I noticed a video by Ray Mears where he uses a Fallkniven DC stone to sharpen his woodlore. However, he secures it first to a firm surface (a log in this instance).

I understand the need for this because if the stone is hand held, the edge will end up convexed.

So I guess to maintain the scandi edge, you'll need a firm surface to support the stone.



Kind regards
Mick
 
I understand the need for this because if the stone is hand held, the edge will end up convexed.

So I guess to maintain the scandi edge, you'll need a firm surface to support the stone.
Kind regards
Mick

Before I purposfully convexed some of my moras I had no problem keeping them flat sharpening with handheld stones. I used a smiths diamond hone and a ceramic lansky (I think) to finish. Same concept, keep the bevel flat and the bevel will stay flat.

Nope no firm surface for the stone here.:)
 
I think you're right, Mick.

My stones are pretty hefty - far too big for field carry. I have a mount that keeps them stationary when I'm sharpening. If it became necessary to repeatedly field sharpen my scandi with my pocket ceramic stone, I expect it would develop a micro-bevel or slight convex (unless I used the Ray Mears two nails in a log trick).

All the best,

- Mike

Edit - on second thought, I'm not so sure that you would have a hard time keeping a flat edge. After all, scandis have traditionally been sharpened in the field using flat stones.
 
So now what say you....

It's a Breeden Half-Breed!:eek:

I would put it in the Sabre class, but very close to a Scandi. In other words, i would much prefer the Breeden Half-Breed to a Sabre or Flat, but I'm a Scandi guy so I'm biased.:jerkit:
 
Okay - good thoughts here. Let me try and distill what is going on with the knife. The 2nd bevel you see in that shot can't be felt as a change in grind angle, but it is a smoother polish. From what Bryan told me about how he created the knife it is a hybrid between a scandi and convex.

Basically he uses a belt to do his grinding and I figure he has the platen and a jig to hold the blade to perform the scandi grind style. I think he then took the platen off and tweaked the edge to produce his usual convex edge. I bet Bryan's thinking here was simply after grinding the knife scandi he thought 'that ain't sharp enough to be called a Breeden' - so he buzzed it convex style and now the thing shaves hair like you wouldn't believe. Its so sharp right now that there is no way in hell I'm going to put my bevel on a flat stone just to figure out how far I need to go to get it a true scandi. My thoughts are that it won't take too much, but I will report back on this the next time I fully sharpen it. In that event, I will do it the old fashioned scandi way :)

As somebody posted before, I think it is a bit semantics. First - many scandi companies actually put a small v-bevel on their knives. I think this is simply a production component. Simple fact is, getting a scandi grind sharp and polished is a lot of work as emphatically demonstrated by Brian Andrew's recent post on the matter. However, it is relatively easy to take the scandi to the edge without full polish and then produce a super sharp V-grind using a more obtuse angle quick and easy and burr free.

In fact, this is how I treat my own scandi's. When they are dull, I sharpen them on the flat diamond stones scandi style. I don't have the multi-hundred dollar stones that many of you folks do so this invariable scratches the heck out of the thing. I work out as many scratches as I can on finer stones finally proceeding to the white rods of mysharpmaker held in the slots behind the case (using them as a flat stone). I then put a micro-bevel on it with the sharpmaker usually at 25 degrees (by rocking the sharpmaker on one of the course rods with the white rods in the 20 degree slots). So - even my scandi's are turned into saber grinds, except for the brief period of time when I'm not satisfied with the edge but haven't put it to the sharpmaker yet.

I read somebody's statement on the forums who said that if the 2nd bevel on the scandi was more than 1 mm up the blade then the scandi cutting performance was gone. I don't agree with that statement. I can usually see between 1-2 mm of V-bevel on my scandi's sharpened as above and they perform the same, well actually much better cause I get them sharper, then if left at the true scandi grind finished on the white rods held in the flat stone configuration.

I don't find that the small bit of bevel interferes with the scandi-aligning properties during shaving. This is really the only advantage I see about the scandi grind and a microbevel seems consistent with that performance aspect.

The whole bit about scandi's being easy to sharpen is true up to the point when you get it right to the edge. At that point you have to be as patient as mother Theresa going through the grits to get a high polish across the whole bevel and to remove the burr. I remember Talfuchre talking about his 2 h sharpening marathon with is Koster and I'm presuming he already started with a relatively sharp edge. Strop that edge - and you just might inadvertently convert your scandi back to convex sabre :)

So Bryan - created his scandi like a scandi. I suppose the last little polish of the edge might have converted it to a sabre, but then again, even if he sold it to me without that last little hit - chances are I would have converted it to a Sabre for him by hitting it on the sharpmaker. As it is, I intend to keep his super keen edge tuned by stropping for as long as I can. We'll see how that works out.

Thanks for the comments and thoughts Pitdog - this thread was a fun read :)
 
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