Ok newbie question here

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Porknwhiskey

Joined
Dec 28, 2012
Messages
13
First, hello. New here.

I've looked through all the "newbie look here" posts and they've been very helpful but I have a question of opinion and some technical-ish questions:

I live in Charleston SC, a shall we say, humid place of residence to say the least. I'm looking to do my first stock removal blade using hand tools (files, sandpaper, father in law's drill press - send off for heat treating) and I want to choose a good steel that will not just rust up on me if i look at it the wrong way along with being a good steel to, as they say, cut my teeth. I'm also looking at storage of extra barstock in my not-climate controlled garage so that is a consideration, though smaller one.

Do I need to only consider stainless like 440c or ATS-34 (or other stainless) or will I be fine using a steel like O-1, D-2 or other despite the climate here? For now I'll be sending blades out for heat treatment, will this change the suggestions?

When i'm not actively working on the blade what type of oil should I coat it with? Do i need to fully remove the oil before going back with the file / sandpaper (I assume so)?

Storing extra bladesotck what is the best method to stave off corrosion?

Thanks for your answers!
 
I live in southern Missouri, trust me, it's HUMID here. I haven't had any problems with rust on high carbon blades so far. I use RemOil on the blades when I am not working on them, it does a pretty good job of preventing rust. When you are working on the blade, the sandpaper and files will remove the oil with the metal. While you are doing the final handsanding, use WD-40 or Windex as a rust preventative sanding lubricant.

You could certainly use stainless, when I made a few blades from 440C, it didn't feel much different from working 10xx high carbon. I have heard CPM154 is another recommended beginner stainless though I have never used it.

Cheers
 
If sending out for heat treat or if you have a knife kiln, then chose whatever steel you want.

I am a huge fan of 1080/1084. Easy to heat treat and will develop a nice patina to prevent corrosion.

Rick Marchand has shared a lot the last couple years on different methods for getting a good patina.

If you like the look of a polished blade with minimal care then stainless is a good idea because carbon steel knives patinate naturally with use.

Here's a good example. I am a plumber. Channel lock brand pliers are made of 1080 high carbon steel. I use mine daily in wet environments. They have a lovely gray patina that's developed over years of use and though I rarely wipe them dry have almost zero rust. If they do rust, I lightly buff with a Scotchbrite pad.

And, you can heat treat 1084 yourself easily!!
Good luck!!!!
 
All the above info is very good out of the steels your talking about if there was one I would steer you away from at first its O-1 it seems to rust when I look at it. LOL. As for storing your stock most of the steel we get as bark layer over it from the rolling process at the mill and this layer protects the steel from rust pretty well. Now if you get percision ground stock keep a light coat of oil on it if your concerned with rust. If where you I would look at anything from 1070-1084 as you can heat treat easily.

Good luck, Brett
 
Thanks Brett. Think I'm going to get some PG CPM154 from jantz as i do not have access to a grinder at the moment.

Much appreciated everyone.
 
The only thing I can think of is precision ground stock would be easier to work with, but more expensive.

I live in Louisiana, humidity central... but most of the rust grief I get is from forgetting to wipe off fingerprints. Unless I leave a piece outdoors. Remember, AC sucks humidity out of the air. If it didn't my wall paper would be peeling off and everything molding.
 
Yeah easy of use was why i was looking at the PG. I was guessing it would be easier to work with first time as I don't have a grinder and i can afford the mostly minimal extra cost on the stock I'll be ordering until i get one.

My garage isn't climate controlled, but at this point it looks like i was being a bit too concerned with corrosion (not that I shouldn't be somewhat concerned).

Thanks for your help.
 
Ground steel is indeed easier to work with. I get most of my stock from Aldo, and he surface grinds* the "bark" or mill scale off for me for a small fee. It stills comes out cheaper than using my own time and belts to do it by hand.

*It's not as perfect as true precision-ground stock, but it comes to me clean and plenty straight/true/parallel enough for fixed blades.
 
james terrio said:
Ground steel is indeed easier to work with. I get most of my stock from Aldo, and he surface grinds* the "bark" or mill scale off for me for a small fee. It stills comes out cheaper than using my own time and belts to do it by hand.

*It's not as perfect as true precision-ground stock, but it comes to me clean and plenty straight/true/parallel enough for fixed blades.
Click to expand...
I will have to try that, A lot of what I've been getting has been warped. A pain for stock removal.
 
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