Old age

I learned that one the hard way! Never boiling a pot of cider vinegar on the stove again. That was an eye-(and sinus-)opening experience.

LOL. Don't do that with any of the phosphoric acid etches - you are apt to cause rusting as the acid settles - it can be pretty strong. I only do those outside as I don't have a vent hood in my shop.

BTW, you can always step up to parkerizing if you want to really go for a black surface.
 
This one was buffed out pretty well before it got Phils paper towel and vinegar trick.
Definately degrease first-I use denatured alcohol.
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Ferric chloride (straight, not the stuff radio shack sells now with the hydrochloric in it) 50/50 with either vinegar or water is very dark if you don't buff or steel wool it after, but it's like shooting corrosive ammo. You have to clean it several times after etching or it rusts.
 
Basic DIY Parkerizing Formula

- 2 gallons of distilled water
- 2 “biscuits” of clean 0000 steel wool
- 1 cup of Klean Strip brand Phosphoric Prep & Etch (or other phosphoric acid etching solution around 35-45% concentrate per the Prep & Etch MSDS sheet)
- 6 rounded tablespoons of manganese dioxide (available at pottery supply stores or eBay, which is where I bought mine)

Do this outside - never in your house or shop (unless you have a great vent hood)

Add acid to water in a stainless pan/pot and heat to 190F - don't boil and waste it. I use a baking thermometer clipped to the side of the pan.
As the solution warms shred the steel wool into the liquid and add the manganese dioxide
Let the mix sit and dissolve the steel wool before adding parts
I always blast my parts before I parkerize them - I've heard guys tell about using a wire brush on a buffer or drill press as well but I've not tried that.
Make sure your parts are very, very clean - degreased and only handle with rubber gloves after
You can suspend your parts in the liqud with stainless wire. Leave them until the fizzing stops or about 30-40 minutes. The time varies.
Rinse the parts with boiling water thoroughly to remove the acid.
Spray parts with WD40 to get the water away from the steel
Wipe down with oil or apply whatever secondary finish you want

When you are done, let your mixture cool and strain the liquid through a coffee filter into a plastic can for future use.

The white precipitate is toxic. Allow it to air dry and dispose of following your area's hazardous waste guidelines.
 
Thanks for the tips, George. I will have to try that next time I'm feeling adventurous in the workshop. Do you need to keep the liquid hot throughout the process or just initially to dissolve the steel wool?
 
Before
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During
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After
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Around 190F throughout Phil. Cooler takes longer and hotter isn't really needed plus you lose more liquid to evaporation.

The easier, cheaper and more dependable way is to buy the manganese parkerizing solution ready-made from Brownells. I just like tinkering. Distilled water is important for consistency too by the way.
 
By the way, even with apple cider you will notice a point where if the liquid is too cold the reaction all but stops. The key is to be consistent in whatever method you use - same ratios, same temperature, etc.
 
The hot/cold difference with the vinegar is pretty dramatic. I use it at room temp for the big khuks because it's easier to manage that way. I tried boiling it and swabbing on with a q-tip on this small O1 folder and it worked really quick and more evenly, but it was also more labor-intensive.

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I did the room temperature thing with the apple cider thing too. Phillll left out the it works better when it's hot part.

That is a gorgeous knife Phillll, you know how some knives just sing to ya and others just don't? That Farmer Lock which I've never seen before is a gosh darn symphony. Well maybe bad analogy, I don't dig symphony much but Charlie Daniels or George Strait at their very very best. It totally rocks!
 
Interesting stuff! Ive done some home anodizing with sulfuric and it is done by cooling the acid. If it is too hot the aluminum oxide boils off the surface and an will not accumulate. By cooling the acid the reaction becomes less active and allows the gel oxide to remain on the surface. It can then be moved from the acid to boiling distilled water to seal and bond it to the surface. Cold acid causes slower reaction and deposits remain whereas hot acid boils violently and scrubs or etches. Very important to know if you doing this stuff. Also important to do it in ventilated areas. Hydrogen gas, acid, and electrical ingition source in same bucket! No fun!
That's pretty impressive Phil.

There's a chemistry thing called the Arrhenius equation - simplified it states that for each 10 degrees C increase in temperature, the reaction rate doubles. It works the other way too if things are cooled off.

http://www.princeton.edu/~achaney/tmve/wiki100k/docs/Arrhenius_equation.html
 
thanks everyone,i just learned a lot.and all them knives turned out great,and my friend is doing better thanks.
 
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