When it comes to installing handles, I am reluctant to muddy the water even further, but putting handles on tools isn't a real big deal regardless how complicated it may seem at first. No doubt there are many ways to skin a cat and I'm sure other methods will get the job done just as well, but here is how I do it.
1) First make sure inside the eye is clean. You want good clean contact between the wood and the metal. You don't have to go overboard; just make sure nothing is stuck up in there. An old toothbrush works good.
2) Find a handle that will make a reasonable fit to the axe head. Make sure the handle is as dry as you can get it. Drier the better.
3) Expect to remove some wood. If there is a lot of wood to get rid of, I will put the handle in a vise and use a drawknife. Another good tool is a hoof rasp (which is a really coarse file). Make sure the handle is taken down to size the full depth of the axe eye. Try to taper it slightly so when the head is almost in place it will be a tight fit to get it on all the way. The tighter the better as long as you can accomplish what you want.
4) When you think you are there, start the head on the handle a little way so it won't fall off. ( Make sure the axe head is not upside down)
5) Now suspend the whole thing head down in the air by grabbing the handle near the end and pound on the end of the handle. Do not rest the axe on anything, but keep it up in the air. The handle will be driven on with surprisingly great force! In fact you had better make sure you are getting it right the first time because if you want to take it apart you will have a devil of a time doing so. If you misjudged and the handle won't go on all the way, do not despair. You can still use a small wood chisel to remove the wood ahead of the head. Do it incrementally in small steps. Chisel-pound-chisel-pound. You'll get it there.
6) Try to get it on so the handle sticks out 1/4 inch or so above the top side of the eye, if you can, but most importantly make sure it is TIGHT. You should have a slot in the handle for a wedge. If not, you should have put one in with a hand saw. Make sure the wooden wedge goes the full width of the slot. Now pound the wooden wedge into the slot as hard and as far as you can. I usually pound until the wedge is mashed down so bad it makes no sense to pound on it anymore. Suspending the axe works well for this, too.
7) Saw off whatever is above the eye. With a hacksaw cut it pretty close to the metal, but don't scrape the saw on the axe head.
8) Now insert a metal wedge at a 45 degree angle into the center of everything. Alternately, doing it at 90 degrees perpendicular to the wooden wedge is OK also if you like--as long as the metal wedge is narrow enough to fit. When it is down flush I like to use the ball end of a ball peen hammer to get it in a little farther.
9) That is all. As a rule, soaking the newly mounted handle in water to swell it is frowned on since when it dries out, you have gained nothing. I have been known to soak old loose hammer handles overnight in a pail of water, but at best it is only a temporary fix.
The same goes for hatchets, hammers, etc. Except the smaller hammers may only need the metal wedge and omit the wooden one. (Be sure to put it in at 45 degrees on the small ones) If the small hammer handles have no slot, don't bother putting one in.
To remove a broken handle: saw off the handle as close to the eye as you can. Then drill multiple holes in the wood from both ends of the eye until the wood can be removed. the old metal wedge is reusable if you do not ruin it with the drilling.
This is my method and I suppose others will work as well, but I've done this for many years and have found no reason to change my tactics. The handle on my Kelly splitting axe broke after 15+ years of use and I blame it on my son. It never loosened up. I burned 25 cords of hardwood per year-mostly maple-in my 3 wood stoves for 26 years on my farm. A wood furnace in the basement, a parlor stove in the living room and a wood range in the kitchen. And two cords of kindling per year as well since the parlor stove and the range had to have fires built in them daily. Making wood was an endless job. I couldn't hardly step out the door without an axe in my hand.
One reason my axe heads stay tight is I am very reluctant to pound either on them or with them--ever! Just chop.
The most important factor in preserving a handle is hitting what you aim at.
1) First make sure inside the eye is clean. You want good clean contact between the wood and the metal. You don't have to go overboard; just make sure nothing is stuck up in there. An old toothbrush works good.
2) Find a handle that will make a reasonable fit to the axe head. Make sure the handle is as dry as you can get it. Drier the better.
3) Expect to remove some wood. If there is a lot of wood to get rid of, I will put the handle in a vise and use a drawknife. Another good tool is a hoof rasp (which is a really coarse file). Make sure the handle is taken down to size the full depth of the axe eye. Try to taper it slightly so when the head is almost in place it will be a tight fit to get it on all the way. The tighter the better as long as you can accomplish what you want.
4) When you think you are there, start the head on the handle a little way so it won't fall off. ( Make sure the axe head is not upside down)
5) Now suspend the whole thing head down in the air by grabbing the handle near the end and pound on the end of the handle. Do not rest the axe on anything, but keep it up in the air. The handle will be driven on with surprisingly great force! In fact you had better make sure you are getting it right the first time because if you want to take it apart you will have a devil of a time doing so. If you misjudged and the handle won't go on all the way, do not despair. You can still use a small wood chisel to remove the wood ahead of the head. Do it incrementally in small steps. Chisel-pound-chisel-pound. You'll get it there.
6) Try to get it on so the handle sticks out 1/4 inch or so above the top side of the eye, if you can, but most importantly make sure it is TIGHT. You should have a slot in the handle for a wedge. If not, you should have put one in with a hand saw. Make sure the wooden wedge goes the full width of the slot. Now pound the wooden wedge into the slot as hard and as far as you can. I usually pound until the wedge is mashed down so bad it makes no sense to pound on it anymore. Suspending the axe works well for this, too.
7) Saw off whatever is above the eye. With a hacksaw cut it pretty close to the metal, but don't scrape the saw on the axe head.
8) Now insert a metal wedge at a 45 degree angle into the center of everything. Alternately, doing it at 90 degrees perpendicular to the wooden wedge is OK also if you like--as long as the metal wedge is narrow enough to fit. When it is down flush I like to use the ball end of a ball peen hammer to get it in a little farther.
9) That is all. As a rule, soaking the newly mounted handle in water to swell it is frowned on since when it dries out, you have gained nothing. I have been known to soak old loose hammer handles overnight in a pail of water, but at best it is only a temporary fix.
The same goes for hatchets, hammers, etc. Except the smaller hammers may only need the metal wedge and omit the wooden one. (Be sure to put it in at 45 degrees on the small ones) If the small hammer handles have no slot, don't bother putting one in.
To remove a broken handle: saw off the handle as close to the eye as you can. Then drill multiple holes in the wood from both ends of the eye until the wood can be removed. the old metal wedge is reusable if you do not ruin it with the drilling.
This is my method and I suppose others will work as well, but I've done this for many years and have found no reason to change my tactics. The handle on my Kelly splitting axe broke after 15+ years of use and I blame it on my son. It never loosened up. I burned 25 cords of hardwood per year-mostly maple-in my 3 wood stoves for 26 years on my farm. A wood furnace in the basement, a parlor stove in the living room and a wood range in the kitchen. And two cords of kindling per year as well since the parlor stove and the range had to have fires built in them daily. Making wood was an endless job. I couldn't hardly step out the door without an axe in my hand.
One reason my axe heads stay tight is I am very reluctant to pound either on them or with them--ever! Just chop.
The most important factor in preserving a handle is hitting what you aim at.