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Old double bix axe of Grandads?
- Thread starter tarmix101
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Temper said:Looks like a good'un. Still its gagging (to use a NW UK term) for Linseed Oil. Use the proper stuff not that nancy boy quick drying crap!
Did you take the varnish off that #13? & What is the little scadi knife?
Yes, I did take the varnish off using sandpaper. I finished it with toung oil (I may be guilty of using the quick dry nancy boy crap
). Are you finishing yours with just plain linseed oil? The Scandi is a hand made buy a guy in my home town. O1 tool steel, micarta scales.
tarmix101 said:
Of course, real men only use Raw Linseed oil
(Actually its all I could find) It takes about 5 coats a day for a week, but the finish is worth waiting for. The rubbing down of the handle takes a lot of patience not to skip the tight bits at the top near the head, but when that fist coat goes on and the grain jumps out at you, its worth the effort. You wife is going to think have 2 women in there now (that are slightly related and one is of mixed ethnicity
)Nice little Scandi, Soooo tempted to get one. I broke down too last night and bought a GB SFA.
Who said it? "I can resist anything except temptation"
Thanks for the advise Temper..... I will do just that.- Joined
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Temper said:
Congratulations, Temper.:thumbup:
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Temper said:You wife is going to think have 2 women in there now (that are slightly related and one is of mixed ethnicity
I just now re-read your post. LMAO!!!!!! :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Another ??? I have is; will the Linseed oil darken the handle up? I would like it to, the toung oil (quick dry nancy boy brand I think) leaves it a natural color. Thanks....
Its from that joke thing "A mans perfect day" 
Raw linseed oil will slightly darken the wood, not much though. What it will do though is make it look more animate, a kind of 'glow' if you like.
Like the finer and finer grits, its hard to stop with the Lindeed oil, this isnt a 'slap dash' process. For crying out loud, dont let the Ogre find you polishing the wood (that wood, not, err, well, you know what I mean) or you will find the handle smashed and in the kindling pile. A woman scorned and all that rot, what o!
Raw linseed oil will slightly darken the wood, not much though. What it will do though is make it look more animate, a kind of 'glow' if you like.
Like the finer and finer grits, its hard to stop with the Lindeed oil, this isnt a 'slap dash' process. For crying out loud, dont let the Ogre find you polishing the wood (that wood, not, err, well, you know what I mean) or you will find the handle smashed and in the kindling pile. A woman scorned and all that rot, what o!
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Temper said:For crying out loud, dont let the Ogre find you polishing the wood (that wood, not, err, well, you know what I mean) or you will find the handle smashed and in the kindling pile. A woman scorned and all that rot, what o!
You kill me
Alright... I just received my new Wetterlings (this post MADE me buy a new axe) 19" small forest axe. I will give the linseed a try on it. I need to remove the "clear crap" anyway. Thanks for the help Temper:thumbup:- Joined
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I thought you had to use boiled linseed oil as the raw wouldn,t dry or take forever to dry ? Let me know cause I have a quart of it doing nothing .
Lets have a 'Linseed off'
I just got my Granfors Bruks Small Forest Axe (You have a Long Hunters Axe I think
)
It needs a little TLC on the head and the handle feels as dry as a 'Dead Dingo's donger'
Most noticable was how thin the stock is compared to a Wetterlings of similar size. (I dont have a LHA but I have handled them)
On your marks,
Open Linseed oil
Go!
I just got my Granfors Bruks Small Forest Axe (You have a Long Hunters Axe I think
)It needs a little TLC on the head and the handle feels as dry as a 'Dead Dingo's donger'
Most noticable was how thin the stock is compared to a Wetterlings of similar size. (I dont have a LHA but I have handled them)
On your marks,
Open Linseed oil
Go!
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Temper said:Lets have a 'Linseed off'
I just got my Granfors Bruks Small Forest Axe (You have a Long Hunters Axe I think
It needs a little TLC on the head and the handle feels as dry as a 'Dead Dingo's donger'
Most noticable was how thin the stock is compared to a Wetterlings of similar size. (I dont have a LHA but I have handled them)
On your marks,
Open Linseed oil
Go!
You're on my new friend..... I have a coat now.... and I will give you this... grain did jump. I will keep on it (I will just try and distract my wife with the cabana boy next door
) BTW, I had to drive all over the damb place to find the stuff. Home Depot... nothing, Ace Hardware.... nothing, I finally found it @ a locally owned hardware store. For the love of gas prices, it was hard to find RAW!Edited to add: pics of the (clear crap) sanded off and the first coat of linseed oil!
Cliff Stamp
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Thanks for the shot, looks like an nice profile.
Linseed oil by the way is just flaxseed oil, which is now being sold as health supplement. What is sold as boiled linseed oil usually has other things in it to make it dry faster. You could try cod liver oil which is similar in composition to flax seed oil, as a side benefit you will always be able to locate your axe by the smell.
That Wetterling has an odd set to the bit, it looks like it rakes back at about 25 degrees or so.
-Cliff
Linseed oil by the way is just flaxseed oil, which is now being sold as health supplement. What is sold as boiled linseed oil usually has other things in it to make it dry faster. You could try cod liver oil which is similar in composition to flax seed oil, as a side benefit you will always be able to locate your axe by the smell.
That Wetterling has an odd set to the bit, it looks like it rakes back at about 25 degrees or so.
-Cliff
Oh you beast! I thought you were going to work on the head too.
Best thing to do if you are not going to work on the head and are going right to the fun stuff is to get a small pop bottle or even better a large Listerine bottle because of its shape. Wash it out and screw on the lid tight. Stand it on its side and cut out a section just large enough to get the head into. The fill up the pop/Listerine bottle until the head is completely covered. Now the handle is naturally at 90 degrees. So, every few hours or when you get the time over the period of a week dunk a small sponge into the oil in the bottle adn liberally rub it into the wood all over the handle. Any run off just goes back into the pop bottle so nothing is wasted. That double bit will, I am pretty sure, take at least week to get it to swell up nice. Once done though, a quick wipe with an oily rag will keep it topped off.
Best thing to do if you are not going to work on the head and are going right to the fun stuff is to get a small pop bottle or even better a large Listerine bottle because of its shape. Wash it out and screw on the lid tight. Stand it on its side and cut out a section just large enough to get the head into. The fill up the pop/Listerine bottle until the head is completely covered. Now the handle is naturally at 90 degrees. So, every few hours or when you get the time over the period of a week dunk a small sponge into the oil in the bottle adn liberally rub it into the wood all over the handle. Any run off just goes back into the pop bottle so nothing is wasted. That double bit will, I am pretty sure, take at least week to get it to swell up nice. Once done though, a quick wipe with an oily rag will keep it topped off.
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I will, I will. But I wanted to do the "fun stuff" first. I will get to the bit soon enough. I still haven't finished the double bit yetTemper said:
All in good time. At this point I might as well have a circus midget and a bearded lady in the old garage Noooooooooooooooooooooo!!!
If you rub off the varnish and oil and then you rub the head down, you will get black crud in the grain and it will soak in because of the oil.
Dont do any more. I will do a photo essay on it with the GB. Leave the Wetterlings for now and work on the DB. :thumbup:
If you rub off the varnish and oil and then you rub the head down, you will get black crud in the grain and it will soak in because of the oil.
Dont do any more. I will do a photo essay on it with the GB. Leave the Wetterlings for now and work on the DB. :thumbup:
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Temper said:Noooooooooooooooooooooo!!!
If you rub off the varnish and oil and then you rub the head down, you will get black crud in the grain and it will soak in because of the oil.
Dont do any more. I will do a photo essay on it with the GB. Leave the Wetterlings for now and work on the DB. :thumbup:
I did think about this Temp. I am going to tape waxed paper all around the handle where the bit meets. However I am interested to see you essay on how you finish the bit
This is new to me... so any help/constructive criticism I can get is goodBe very careful, the oil will attack the glue on the tape and make for a whole lot of boogers that are hell to get off (I learned the hard way) Wrap the handle in Saran Wrap first (now that it has oil on it) then use 1/4 electricians tape around the head. I use painters tape for the shaft but making paper tape follow the contours of the head it hard, thats why I use plastic tape up there, its also a little more abrasian resistant when you slip off with the paper when polishing close to the edge of the head.
If I get time I will start it today
If I get time I will start it today