Old Hickory

M

Moggelito

Joined
Feb 9, 2024
Messages
12
I got my Old Hickory Kephart today, it was blunt as a butter knife and I can't for the life of me get it sharp, WTF is wrong with this steel? Everyone says 1075 is so easy to sharpen but that's not the case with mine. I have a Condor Bisonte in 1095 and that was a breeze to get razor sharp.
 
I would guess it did not have much of an edge on it to start with. What grit are you trying to get an edge with?
Most knives being new just don't have much of a real cutting edge to start with. If it were mine I would go with a low angle using 325 grit. Thin that edge out, probably too thick to start with. After using the coarse git and it starts to cut then you can up the grit for a finer edge.
 
Whitedog said:
I would guess it did not have much of an edge on it to start with. What grit are you trying to get an edge with?
Most knives being new just don't have much of a real cutting edge to start with. If it were mine I would go with a low angle using 325 grit. Thin that edge out, probably too thick to start with. After using the coarse git and it starts to cut then you can up the grit for a finer edge.
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I've gone over it with 320 a hundred times and then 600 finishing with stropping. It's better but not as sharp as I want it to be.
 
Use a fine file to set the bevel you want and to raise a burr, then go to the hones. Don't expect Old Hickory steel to hold an edge, though. Most are pretty soft.
 
Are you using a fixed angle system or is this freehand?

Edit: I'm asking because my first thought is that your sharpening angle may be too acute and your abrasives may not have touched the apex.
 
Modernflame said:
Are you using a fixed angle system or is this freehand?

Edit: I'm asking because my first thought is that your sharpening angle may be too acute and your abrasives may not have touched the apex.
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I used a sharpie and it looked like a 20 degree angle so I went with that.
 
Everyone is going to burn me in effigy for this, however...


Get you a $10 AccuSharp sharpener. Follow the instructions and run it over the edge, VERY LIGHTLY (*little to no pressure on your thumb), until the carbide blades of the AccuSharp "train" the edge to about 20-21 DPS.

After that, you can maintain/sharpen it with whatever method you choose. Just sayin'...



20240209_163824 (BF).jpg



*Let the beat-down begin!
 
Moggelito said:
I used a sharpie and it looked like a 20 degree angle so I went with that.
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Just trying to help you troubleshoot. Apologies if I'm telling you something you already know. If you've formed a burr along the entire edge, then the next possible obstacle could be deburring. If you don't clean off the apex well, the knife won't perform. Sometime softer steels can be tricky to deburr. Use only edge leading strokes, alternating one pass per side, with decreasing pressure. Strop at the same angle with light pressure and diamond compound. If your kit includes a ceramic hone, that will make a fine bridge between diamond plates and strops.
 
Modernflame said:
Just trying to help you troubleshoot. Apologies if I'm telling you something you already know. If you've formed a burr along the entire edge, then the next possible obstacle could be deburring. If you don't clean off the apex well, the knife won't perform. Sometime softer steels can be tricky to deburr. Use only edge leading strokes, alternating one pass per side, with decreasing pressure. Strop at the same angle with light pressure and diamond compound. If your kit includes a ceramic hone, that will make a fine bridge between diamond plates and strops.
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No worries, I appreciate the help. I noticed the burr is harder to get rid of, I'm not used to 1075 and that might be the problem. Alternating strokes may be the way to go. I will try again tomorrow.
 
Alone said:
Everyone is going to burn me in effigy for this, however...


Get you a $10 AccuSharp sharpener. Follow the instructions and run it over the edge, VERY LIGHTLY (*little to no pressure on your thumb), until the carbide blades of the AccuSharp "train" the edge to about 20-21 DPS.

After that, you can maintain/sharpen it with whatever method you choose. Just sayin'...



View attachment 2489454



*Let the beat-down begin!
Click to expand...

That's a paddlin'

View attachment 2489502
 
This thread has captured my attention. I use the 10”, and especially 7” OH butcher knives a lot in my kitchen. I don’t have an opinion on how well they hold an edge. I have a smooth steel at hand, which keeps them more than sharp enough for my use. I steel them just about every time I use them, so they have no chance to get dull.
 
Alone said:
Everyone is going to burn me in effigy for this, however...


Get you a $10 AccuSharp sharpener. Follow the instructions and run it over the edge, VERY LIGHTLY (*little to no pressure on your thumb), until the carbide blades of the AccuSharp "train" the edge to about 20-21 DPS.

After that, you can maintain/sharpen it with whatever method you choose. Just sayin'...



View attachment 2489454



*Let the beat-down begin!
Click to expand...
Alone said:
Everyone is going to burn me in effigy for this, however...


Get you a $10 AccuSharp sharpener. Follow the instructions and run it over the edge, VERY LIGHTLY (*little to no pressure on your thumb), until the carbide blades of the AccuSharp "train" the edge to about 20-21 DPS.

After that, you can maintain/sharpen it with whatever method you choose. Just sayin'...



View attachment 2489454



*Let the beat-down begin!
Click to expand...
 
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