OLD to new (WIP)

C

chad2

Joined
Sep 2, 2011
Messages
1,000
turning my old katana into a smaller more useable sword and much better

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this is what it looked like when i got it back. it was a leaf spring that i hand bent to simy straight and ground into somewhat of a sword

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at this point i have shortened it to oal 24 inches. this gave me enough steel to test and it fits in my kiln now lol this steel reacts exactly like 5160 so i am treating it as such.

i have done all of the normalizing, thermal cycling, and annealing at this point and the extra peice of steel is a scrap piece of alabama damascus that i am using for the hand gaurd

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i think with the damascus hand gaurd it will look much better and it will have a much better finished handle this time.
 
my kids wanted to act like ninjas lol my daughter could not hold it for very long lol

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rough shape of the damascus gaurd
 
Chad, If you want some wood to make the tsuka and saya, let me know. I can cut and split you a section of alder. A paracord wrap over the wooden scales will make a nice looking handle. Another good choice would be a leather wrap over the wood core.
 
No charge. I'll cut a 30"x3" section and split it for you tomorrow morning. Send me an email or PM with your phone number and I'll call you after I cut it. I am running errands mid-day, and can drop it off.
 
Stacy I just want to thank you for taking time out of your day to bring me that awesome peice of wood. I am sorry your visit was so short maybe next time we will have to get to gether for a little longer. You have some very nice up coming blades cant wait to see them finished.

Also I just want everyone to know that I will not be doing to much work because of some things that need to be taken care of first. Every once and a while I find time to get out to the garage but not as much as I would like to.
 
So I was actually able to find some time to heat treat my katana. well as you may know this blade was a stock removal blade it was not forged and it was not clay heat treated. The curve of the blade was artifical. In the heat treat the artifical curve almost completely straigthened out, near the handle it actually slightly went the opposite way I am pretty angry because the one time I get to work again it gets messed up. I know why this happened , my question is, is there a way to fix this after the first temper???? Suggestions please.
 
Reverse sori is something that happens with long steel blades in an oil quench. Normally, the simplest thing is to put a little extra sori in the blade when shaping it. After the HT, there is one thing that the Japanese do to adjust sori.. Temper it at 500F ( a good range for a long blade), and work it with a heavy wooden mallet while hot ( wear heavy gloves). Place the blade edge on a wooden board and strike the blade from the spine side. Work fairly fast, and use firm blows. Place back in the oven for 15 minutes after working the blade for one minute. Repeat as needed. Be aware that when you pound on any hardened blade there is always a risk of it breaking.
 
bladsmth said:
Reverse sori is something that happens with long steel blades in an oil quench. Normally, the simplest thing is to put a little extra sori in the blade when shaping it. After the HT, there is one thing that the Japanese do to adjust sori.. Temper it at 500F ( a good range for a long blade), and work it with a heavy wooden mallet while hot ( wear heavy gloves). Place the blade edge on a wooden board and strike the blade from the spine side. Work fairly fast, and use firm blows. Place back in the oven for 15 minutes after working the blade for one minute. Repeat as needed. Be aware that when you pound on any hardened blade there is always a risk of it breaking.
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thank you i will try this the curve is not that bad but it needs to be fixed because it is uneven now and will bind going in and out of the saya
 
no you did not stacy. it was a heat treat problem i will explain in depth later.
 
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