I like the one hand opening idea on classic slippies. With so many old plastic handle models on hand, I wonder if a blade could easily be modded to the "razor" shape. If anyone has tried this, let me know the method and results. Would a Dremel suffice? Thanks for any feedback.
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One-armed opening jack
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If you think it would help in your musings, here is what AI thinks:
op edge of the knife (dull part) against something and pulling it open. wouldd it be possible to use some type of grinding tool on an existing pocket knife blade to grind the end of a normal pointed blade to mimic that and thus be able to open it one handed
Yes, it is entirely possible to modify a standard pocket knife blade using a grinding tool to mimic a "one-armed bandit" or "one-hand opener" notch.Recommended ToolsRotary Tool (Dremel): Best choice. Offers high control. Use a fiberglass-reinforced cutoff wheel or a silicon carbide grinding stone.Half-Round Hand File: Safest choice. Takes longer but will not overheat the steel.Bench Grinder: Not recommended. It removes material too quickly and easily ruins the blade's heat treatment.
Step-by-Step ProcessDesign
the Notch: Draw a deep, hook-shaped concave curve on the spine (dull top edge) near the tip using a permanent marker.Protect
the Blade: Wrap the rest of the blade and the handle in heavy tape to prevent accidental slips and scratches.
Grind Slowly: Use your rotary tool or file to slowly remove steel along your marked line. Keep the edges of the notch relatively sharp so they can catch on fabric.
Manage Heat: If using a power tool, dip the blade in cold water every 3–5 seconds. If the steel turns blue or straw-colored, the heat has ruined the temper, making the steel soft and brittle.
Smooth and Debur: Use fine-grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to smooth out the inside of the grind.
Critical Safety WarningsSlip Risk: Opening a knife by hooking it against your pants or an object requires pulling force. If your hand slips, you risk severe cuts.
Bias to Closure: Traditional slipjoint pocket knives do not lock shut, but they do have tension holding them closed. Ensure the knife pivot isn't so stiff that the hook slips instead of opening the blade.
So, any thoughts?
op edge of the knife (dull part) against something and pulling it open. wouldd it be possible to use some type of grinding tool on an existing pocket knife blade to grind the end of a normal pointed blade to mimic that and thus be able to open it one handed
Yes, it is entirely possible to modify a standard pocket knife blade using a grinding tool to mimic a "one-armed bandit" or "one-hand opener" notch.Recommended ToolsRotary Tool (Dremel): Best choice. Offers high control. Use a fiberglass-reinforced cutoff wheel or a silicon carbide grinding stone.Half-Round Hand File: Safest choice. Takes longer but will not overheat the steel.Bench Grinder: Not recommended. It removes material too quickly and easily ruins the blade's heat treatment.
Step-by-Step ProcessDesign
the Notch: Draw a deep, hook-shaped concave curve on the spine (dull top edge) near the tip using a permanent marker.Protect
the Blade: Wrap the rest of the blade and the handle in heavy tape to prevent accidental slips and scratches.
Grind Slowly: Use your rotary tool or file to slowly remove steel along your marked line. Keep the edges of the notch relatively sharp so they can catch on fabric.
Manage Heat: If using a power tool, dip the blade in cold water every 3–5 seconds. If the steel turns blue or straw-colored, the heat has ruined the temper, making the steel soft and brittle.
Smooth and Debur: Use fine-grit sandpaper wrapped around a dowel to smooth out the inside of the grind.
Critical Safety WarningsSlip Risk: Opening a knife by hooking it against your pants or an object requires pulling force. If your hand slips, you risk severe cuts.
Bias to Closure: Traditional slipjoint pocket knives do not lock shut, but they do have tension holding them closed. Ensure the knife pivot isn't so stiff that the hook slips instead of opening the blade.
So, any thoughts?
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Might take a good look at the thread linked below. It was a discussion of how best to remove large portions of steel from blade tips for the sake of modding. One point that seems to make a lot of sense is the recommendation to use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to remove the larger portion of a blade tip first. Then use other tools like belt grinders, files or maybe a Dremel with a grinding wheel to do the final shaping of the tip. Using the cutoff wheel first would be much faster than trying to simply grind a lot of material away with something as small and underpowered as a Dremel, which would likely be extremely slow and might also be a risk for overheating the steel and damaging temper as well.
A Dremel might be used with a smaller accessory cutoff wheel, which may be adequate for removing the tip of a relatively small traditional slipjoint's blade.
I'm no expert at any of this. You would likely do well to wait for more experienced experts to weigh in first, before attempting anything. Good luck.
A Dremel might be used with a smaller accessory cutoff wheel, which may be adequate for removing the tip of a relatively small traditional slipjoint's blade.
I'm no expert at any of this. You would likely do well to wait for more experienced experts to weigh in first, before attempting anything. Good luck.
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PS : haha I wrote this then went looking for a link and never posted it . Never found the link I wanted (must have been in That Other Forum) .
late but . . .
Funny you should mention that . After I read this thread title but before I opened your thread I was thinking it could be done . Depends on the knife ; need enough spine of the blade above the handle . Sure a Dremel would do this just fine . Clamp the tip of the blade in a vise so it doesn't get into some kind of high speed osolation / vibration which at the least could break cut off wheel after cut off wheel and at the worst it might be a bit dangerous .
I have done A LOT of blade mods and shortening of blades this way . In fact I got in a Case Trapper in CS that I plan to mod tomorrow .
Keep a wet sock in a bowl near by to keep wetting the blade so it doesn't get hot and mess up the temper .
late but . . .
Funny you should mention that . After I read this thread title but before I opened your thread I was thinking it could be done . Depends on the knife ; need enough spine of the blade above the handle . Sure a Dremel would do this just fine . Clamp the tip of the blade in a vise so it doesn't get into some kind of high speed osolation / vibration which at the least could break cut off wheel after cut off wheel and at the worst it might be a bit dangerous .
I have done A LOT of blade mods and shortening of blades this way . In fact I got in a Case Trapper in CS that I plan to mod tomorrow .
Keep a wet sock in a bowl near by to keep wetting the blade so it doesn't get hot and mess up the temper .
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2015
- Messages
- 8,397
Oh now I read the Edges post .
I do this sort of thing for a living and have done since I was a young teen , 66 now .
no
DO NOT use the angle grinder . May as well just use a bench grinder .
The THIN Dremel blades are so much less heat generating it is on another planet (you know, that orders of magnitude thing) .
This is EXACTLY the scale of job the Dremel SHINES AT !
you haven't done it much less tried it .
OP go to the Spyderco Forum link suggested/ spokenn of in Edges post and page down to my posts . I should not post a direct link here / against the rules .
I've done dozens of these ; a coffee can half full of cut off remnants .
I do this sort of thing for a living and have done since I was a young teen , 66 now .
no
DO NOT use the angle grinder . May as well just use a bench grinder .
The THIN Dremel blades are so much less heat generating it is on another planet (you know, that orders of magnitude thing) .
Under powered . What do you imagine a Dremel is designed to do ?
This is EXACTLY the scale of job the Dremel SHINES AT !
so
you haven't done it much less tried it .
OP go to the Spyderco Forum link suggested/ spokenn of in Edges post and page down to my posts . I should not post a direct link here / against the rules .
I've done dozens of these ; a coffee can half full of cut off remnants .
Last edited:
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- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,669
Yes, slow with a grinding wheel on the Dremel. With a cutoff wheel on the other hand, as I mentioned, it's more doable.Oh now I read the Edges post .
I do this sort of thing for a living and have done since I was a young teen , 66 now .
no
DO NOT use the angle grinder . May as well just use a bench grinder .
The THIN Dremel blades are so much less heat generating it is on another planet (you know, that orders of magnitude thing) .
Under powered . What do you imagine a Dremel is designed to do ?
This is EXACTLY the scale of job the Dremel SHINES AT !
so
you haven't done it much less tried it .
OP go to the Spyderco Forum link suggested/ spokenn of in Edges post and page down to my posts . I should not post a direct link here / against the rules .
I've done dozens of these ; a coffee can half full of cut off remnants .