One month with a Police and H-1 Spyderhawk

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Feb 27, 2005
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Every once in a while you get tired of trying to pick which knives to rotate, so last month when I got my Police and H-1 Spyderhawk, I decided to go with those for a month straight.
Well, the month is up and I'm back scratching my head trying to pick which knives to carry, I did learn some things though.

1. SS handles are slippery...
Sometimes. The Police feels like it's trying to escape your grip all the time, but contrast that with the SS ATR, and I have to come to the conclusion that some shapes work better than others. The Police could use some G-10 on top, like the Police 3!

2. Hawkbills are better serrated.
On a normal blade I don't like serrations, but every time I cut something with the Spyderhawk I couldn't help but feel it would have done a better job if it were serrated. There are only a very few serrated patterns that work well on a normal shaped blade, but a hawkbill simply lends itself to cutting in a manner that serrations would work better.
(NOTE: My Superhawk does just fine in PE, though it is not nearly as curved as most hawkbills. IMO Sal did a great job getting a hawkbill to perform more like an average utility blade with that knife.)

3. I think I'll do this more often.
It's so refreshing to just pick up and go without scrounging through a box for knives all the time. If you find yourself rotating more than twice a week, I highly suggest putting everything away for a while and sticking with something longer than you would a pair of socks.
 
1. I agree, stainless handles are pretty slippery. I have an all stainless Leek that's one of my favorites for EDC, but it doesn't go anywhere that I may be dealing with gloves, snow or water. I'd drop it for sure. Thankfully, I also have an all TiNi coated Leek that is much grippier.

2. I have a fully serrated Byrd Crossbill and agree, serrations and hawkbills just go together. Cuts like crazy. But, I don't look forward to it needing sharpening. Maybe I'll just buy another one at that point, they're not expensive.

3. I applaud you for sticking to your guns on a month of just two knives. I couldn't do it.
 
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Interesting trial.

I would disagree about needing serrations on a hawkbill though. I collect them and prefer PE because it is easy to touch-up the blades to the point where they can easily cut through your chore items. For serious chore blades, serrations just cannot be maintained like PE for years & years of duty.

I think gardeners, farmers and sailors would agree with me.
 
You would be wrong. ;)

I've been carrying two Spyderhawks, one PE and one SE for a month or so, using them side by side for comparison. The PE has required three times as much sharpening to perform half as well as the serrated version. Most of the chores have been trimming and pruning for grounds maintenance, with a little cardboard demolition and caulking removal for variety. For me, full serrated is the only way to fly with hawkbills. YMMV.
 
I forget who posted it, but a few weeks ago there was that thread with a video showing how to properly sharpen serrations.
In the video they don't even bother trying to sharpen each scallop individually, instead creating a bevel on the opposite side from where they were ground in. After taking enough material off the serrations were exactly the same shape as new, and with some stropping cut just as well.
Since most serrations are ground on the wrong side for right hand use anyway, it looks like a pretty good method, as you'll just be centering the edge.
 
I've been carrying my S60v Blur for about a week now and I think I'm going to try and carry it for a month now. I always have my Vic Farmer as well. I'll probably start a thread this week end about it, so keep an eye out.
 
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