one-of-a-kind Spyderco

Discussion in 'Spyderco' started by Jeff Jenness, Aug 2, 2014.

  1. Jeff Jenness

    Jeff Jenness

    123
    Sep 2, 2010
    I've always liked the Wegner knives and the small Walker models and so, I remade the Lum ...

    20140802_175651 copy.jpg

    Close-up of the blade ...

    20140802_175707 copy.jpg

    Front-side ...

    20140802_175751 copy.jpg

    This now compares favorably to the Delica and in fact, you can tell that this is one of my regular carries. I have several Lums and yesterday I pulled this out of my pocket and thought that I could make some changes. No disrespect for the Chinese Lum, it's a great knife. My grinding could have been better and I intend on fixing it. You can see a chamfer along the top edge of the blade that follows the original grinding of the blade left at the "top corner". Anyway, open for comments ...

    Is there anybody who knows the tricks to setting the liner lock on this model? I had to take it apart to clean it up and did not want to disassemble it too often because of the aluminum scales being threaded to hold the knife together. I figure one of the reassemblies will result in a screw just slightly off and a quick half-turn will be all it takes to ruin the knife. I put it together twice and never quite got the trick. I adjusted once and the liner lock would not engage. The second time, the liner lock travels to the other scale and is too loose. Any pointers is appreciated! Does the pivot on the female side rotate in the aluminum scale to make changes in tightness?

    Thanks,

    Jeff
     
    Last edited: Aug 2, 2014
  2. sogflash

    sogflash

    Aug 28, 2011
    Can't help you with the linerlock, but I must say that I like your mod! It looks nice.
     
  3. Surfingringo

    Surfingringo Gold Member Gold Member

    May 25, 2013
    Hey Jeff, I really like the mod! Makes me want to get one of those Chinese Lums to play with. There is a lot of room on that blade to get really creative with.

    Sometimes I regrind my blades and I always feel a tinge of guilt as if I am disrespecting the person who designed that knife. Oh well, I hope those makers never take it that way when we do this, because it certainly is never meant that way. I see it more like a maker giving me a great starting point to make something customized just for me.

    Imagine if spyderco made something like an amateur knife designers "mule"! Like a large bladed folder with a large unfinished blade with opening hole. Sell a hundred or so to folks who like regrinding blades and just step back and watch! A lot of fun would be had and there would undoubtedly be some amazing results. There are some really talented folks on this forum. I'm not one of them but I would absolutely give it a go!
     
  4. 303_enfield

    303_enfield

    100
    Jul 7, 2014
    You should have used a sprint run. Not a Gen 1 Lum. I've been trying to replace mine for years.

    My 2ยข
     
  5. Jeff Jenness

    Jeff Jenness

    123
    Sep 2, 2010
    Thanks guys for the comments.

    Good idea Surfingringo! I wish Spyderco would design a knife meant for modding. But I'm always modding my things. I have about dozen or so knives from Benchmade, Becker, Bark River, ESEE, and several others that have mods and while some are cosmetic, others are true improvements.

    Sorry to disappoint you, 303, but I've been carrying this one since I bought it. Some folks actually use their knives!!! :) Besides, I already have another 1st gen collector's edition.
     
  6. Rare blade

    Rare blade

    720
    Sep 21, 2013
    Looks like a great improvement, love the look. I have been looking for the serrated version of that knife for a while.
     
  7. 303_enfield

    303_enfield

    100
    Jul 7, 2014
    Oh, I use mine. That's why I need to replace it. It's worn out after several deployments. 13 years will do that. The Gen 1's or better made then the Sprints IMHO. Your Mods are fine. I just can't stand Gen 1's being Bubba'd

    I would have traded two new Sprints for your Gen 1.
     
  8. Jeff Jenness

    Jeff Jenness

    123
    Sep 2, 2010
    Hey 303, PM me and I will see if I can help you out on that Gen 1.

    Jeff
     
  9. Jeff Jenness

    Jeff Jenness

    123
    Sep 2, 2010
    303, your inbox is full and you cannot receive PM, email me!
     
  10. brownshoe

    brownshoe I support this site with my MIND

    Sep 6, 2002
    It has an eccentric pivot for adjustments; a design no longer used. I saved the instructions below 10 years ago on adjusting the eccentric pivots of Spydercos. I used them once on the Lum about 8 years ago. The lockup has sat at 90% since then.

    "Here's my explanation of how to adjust the eccentric pivot on the Starmate and Military.

    I have a Starmate. Great knife. The blade had some vertical play. It came like that when I bought it, new, from the store. It passed the spine-whack test so I just ignored the play. But then it started to bug me. So I decided to try and adjust the eccentric pivot. The eccentric pivot allows the blade to be moved forward and back in the handle, thus affecting the blade's positioning in relation to the lockbar and stop pin, and the resulting lockup. It lets you fine tune the lockup, if you know how. Maybe this will help. Remember though, Spyderco's position is that this is not an adjustment people try themselves. Spyderco recommends that knives needing adjustment be sent in. Doing this may void your warranty. Proceed at your risk. But it really isn't that hard. Judge for yourself.

    ( Note: By "pivot bushing" I mean the part of the pivot that goes through the hole in the blade tang and around which the knife rotates. On the Starmate and Military the pivot bushing enters the handle from the left side. It has a smooth, domed head. The pivot screw holds the pivot bushing in place. The pivot screw takes a #15 Torx bit.)
    Here's what you do:

    One: Close the knife. Mark the present position of the pivot bushing in the handle. I put a piece of masking tape on the handle beside the bushing and made a mark on the bushing and the tape with a pencil. Or use a felt pen. Or whatever. YMMV.

    Two: You have to partially unscrew the pivot screw so that it's screwed in only a few turns. If you unscrew the pivot screw all the way just put it back in a few turns. Use a #15 Torx bit.

    Three: You have to push out the pivot bushing. It's press-fit into the handle. Holding the knife in your hands, press on the protruding screw head with your thumb, maybe put a coin between your thumb and the screw head. Or you can push on the screw head with the Torx screwdriver. YMMV. Push until the pivot bushing is pushed out and partially protruding from the G-10 handle scale.

    ( Note: You don't want to push the bushing out from the handle all the way, just part way. If you do push out the bushing completely, the thin red washers between the blade and the handle may get out of position and repositioning them may require taking the handle apart. So the bushing should partly protrude and not be completely pushed out. Make sure the pivot screw is screwed in a few turns before pressing on it to push out the bushing.)
    Four: With the bushing partly pushed out, look beneath the protruding domed head. Right beneath the head you'll see a 12-sided surface, with 12 flats. Kind of like the edge of a 12-sided screw nut, if such a thing were made. This 12-sided part of the bushing mates with a similarly shaped hole in the G-10 scale when the bushing is pressed into the handle. This design allows for the bushing to be adjusted to 12 different positions in the handle, each position a 30 degree rotation from adjacent positions (360 / 12 = 30).

    Now for the actual adjustment. Grasping the protruding domed head of the pivot bushing with your fingers, rotate the pivot bushing one position, or 30 degrees, either clockwise or counter-clockwise. You'll have to guesstimate this.
    (Because the initial adjustment of each knife will vary, there is no way of knowing which direction is the right way to go. So just choose one or the other. If the direction you choose doesn't work, then you'll go the other way. No harm done.)

    Now, push the pivot bushing back into the handle. Check the lockup by opening the knife. There are a few different possible results:

    (a) The lockup is perfect. Good. That means you turned the pivot bushing the right way. Just screw in the pivot screw and that's it.

    (b) The lockup is almost perfect, with just a tiny bit of vertical play. That's probably as good as you can get it. Because the pivot bushing isn't infinitely adjustable but instead has 12 fixed positions it can be moved to, rotating the bushing to the next position will probably move the blade too close to the lockbar and stop pin.
    But you can try the next position and see, if you want. Remember, the blade should be closed when rotating the pivot bushing.

    (c) The lockbar won't engage the back of the blade tang. It won't pop out. This means the blade has been moved too far backwards. You now have to rotate the pivot bushing in the opposite direction
    to move the blade forward.

    (d) The lockup is worse. Even more vertical play. This means you rotated the pivot bushing in the wrong direction. Rotate in the opposite direction.

    Keep trying different positions until you get it right. Or if this doesn't make sense to you or if you think you can't handle it, then send it in to Spyderco. But it really isn't that hard to do. Just give it some thought.

    Well, that's the best explanation I can give. Hopefully others can add something to this. Good luck!"
     
  11. Jeff Jenness

    Jeff Jenness

    123
    Sep 2, 2010
    Thanks brownshoe!
     
  12. brownshoe

    brownshoe I support this site with my MIND

    Sep 6, 2002
    Did it work? :)
     

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