One other cool thing about Res-C

Tim are the mudder handles full tang? Ive got a mud mutt thats my goto backpacking knife and its got ALOT of trail miles on it and well theres not alot of coating on the blade any more so i was gona stipper down. I didnt know if it would be easier to take the grip of or not
 
Crap! I have know idea how to even post pics now? Ive been away from the forum for a couple years and i forget how to pics.
 
Thanks for the tang pic of the 1311, Tim! Gotta say you are doing some gorgeous, gorgeous work my friend! Are the other current-production Res-C handle tangs like the B8’s and BB13’s barbed like that 1311? (And btw, do the barbs make removal and re-installation of the Res-C more difficult?)

Thanks!
 
I don't think that ALL the Res-C handles are barbed. At a Blade show Dan Busse told me that he came up with the idea of the barbs for the 1311 so that the handle would not slip while doing some hard chopping with so much blade.
 
Yeah—none of the older Bussekin have the tang barbs. Just curious about which ones do.:thumbsup::cool:
 
I got blown off a ladder and half a screw driver to show for an unintended "is this screw driver grounded or not" experiment...
 
TRog said:
Tim are the mudder handles full tang? Ive got a mud mutt thats my goto backpacking knife and its got ALOT of trail miles on it and well theres not alot of coating on the blade any more so i was gona stipper down. I didnt know if it would be easier to take the grip of or not
Click to expand...
Yes they are a smaller barbless version of what you see with the 1311. The easy way to figure it out is add about 1/4" beyond the tube fastener to figure out where the tang ends under your res-c handle.

TRog said:
Crap! I have know idea how to even post pics now? Ive been away from the forum for a couple years and i forget how to pics.
Click to expand...
I am having the best luck now by using the site www.imgur.com as it is easy to upload the photos and then just copy the link to post here. There were several tutorials posted about it here on bladeforums that should make it much easier if you have any trouble figuring it out on your own.

Will York said:
Thanks for the tang pic of the 1311, Tim! Gotta say you are doing some gorgeous, gorgeous work my friend! Are the other current-production Res-C handle tangs like the B8’s and BB13’s barbed like that 1311? (And btw, do the barbs make removal and re-installation of the Res-C more difficult?)

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Thanks Will, the SF work is keeping me busy when the weather allows me to work in the unheated shop. Down to about 26*F is tolerable, below that my hands get too cold too fast to bother with it. I can't yet say yes or no to barbs on the B8 or BB13 (or a Reg for that matter) yet as the ones I have worked on so far were already stripped or satin so I did not need to pull the handle. I will have a handle off of a BB13 soon to let you know. I would guess probably not on the 8 and maybe on the 13 for the barbs. The barbs do make it a lot more difficult to get the handle started moving which shows how effective they are, but after that it is about the same as the rest. In fact, I would almost venture to guess that in an dire emergency a guy could use it even without the tube fastener. Going back on is much easier as the barbs are perfectly designed for great retention with easy install.
 
AZTimT said:
Yes they are a smaller barbless version of what you see with the 1311. The easy way to figure it out is add about 1/4" beyond the tube fastener to figure out where the tang ends under your res-c handle.


I am having the best luck now by using the site www.imgur.com as it is easy to upload the photos and then just copy the link to post here. There were several tutorials posted about it here on bladeforums that should make it much easier if you have any trouble figuring it out on your own.



Thanks Will, the SF work is keeping me busy when the weather allows me to work in the unheated shop. Down to about 26*F is tolerable, below that my hands get too cold too fast to bother with it. I can't yet say yes or no to barbs on the B8 or BB13 (or a Reg for that matter) yet as the ones I have worked on so far were already stripped or satin so I did not need to pull the handle. I will have a handle off of a BB13 soon to let you know. I would guess probably not on the 8 and maybe on the 13 for the barbs. The barbs do make it a lot more difficult to get the handle started moving which shows how effective they are, but after that it is about the same as the rest. In fact, I would almost venture to guess that in an dire emergency a guy could use it even without the tube fastener. Going back on is much easier as the barbs are perfectly designed for great retention with easy install.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info!
One quick question, how do you remove (and re-use) the tube?

Is it just a compression fit with the Res-c holding it? My reason for asking this, is that it looks flared on my scrapmax...

Thanks again.
 
NJBillK said:
Thanks for the info!
One quick question, how do you remove (and re-use) the tube?

Is it just a compression fit with the Res-c holding it? My reason for asking this, is that it looks flared on my scrapmax...

Thanks again.
Click to expand...
I can't reuse tubes after they get drilled out so I replace them with the same thickness stainless steel flared tubes that should be on par for both strength & looks. I do drill them out slow so as not to overheat/burn/melt any of the handle materials though. ;)
 
AZTimT said:
I can't reuse tubes after they get drilled out so I replace them with the same thickness stainless steel flared tubes that should be on par for both strength & looks. I do drill them out slow so as not to overheat/burn/melt any of the handle materials though. ;)
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I only have 1" bearings, and while they are good for forging, they are too large for flaring tubes... Guess it is time to hit up my bearing replacement/heavy machinery shop...

ETA: I do already have some 1/4" stainless tubing for lanyard tubes when I redo handles, so I am set there.

Thanks for the info.
 
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