One Small Blade Allowed...Folder or Fixed?

Brian Jones

Brian Jones

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I don't want to get into recommendations of models here, but if you were to carry one small knife under 4" in the wilderness, any terrain, would you prefer a small fixed blade or a folder (no SAKs or multi-tools: single balde folder)? Why? Advantages of one over the other? Weaknesses of one over the other? Would the sheath of the fixed blade have a bearing on your choice (and why)? The handle material/style on either? Would the particular lock-type on the folder affect your choice, and why?

How would you carry your particular choice in thick brush or jungle? desert? snow? mountains? ocean?

What have been your experiences with a small fixed blade, or folder, or both in actual conditions?

Thought this might make for a fun discussion in terms of how a knife will best function under actual conditions, keeping in mind your survival priorities...

Best,

Brian.
 
I would choose my Busse Mean Street. The only downfall I can find with it is, it's a little heavy for it's size. other than that, it is the perfect size for %90 of my hiking and camping needs. It's really tough, stays sharp, and the Kydex sheath stays where I put it. Not that it was good for the finish, but I have used it to open soup cans when a proper opener was left behind. I wouldn't want to try that with a folder. When it's not practical to wear on my belt, I have slipped it in a pocket, in my pack, and also on para cord around my neck. I love my folders for city use, but in the woods where you can wear a sheath knife without getting stares, it's the way to go.
 
If the parameters allowed it, I'd carry my SH-II. It is then a tossup between my Lean Mean Street and my AFCK.
I would probably carry my AFCK. Good blade, poundable to split wood, strong lockup, and when I get back, if it's dull, I send it back and get it sharpened/replaced...
It can be lanyarded around my neck, carried in a pocket, a sheath, taped to LBE, etc. Don't have to worry about the sheath getting wet and holding moisture. It will open cans, cut all kindsa stuff.. Pretty much take a lickin and keep on tickin (sorry Timex). Of course, the LMS will do all that also. AAAAAAGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH I can't decide!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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Run and you only die tired....
The art of being wise is knowing what to overlook.
Take the Test...

[This message has been edited by thatmguy (edited 02-06-2001).]
 
I'm going to assume that a SH II would not be considered a "small blade", but bearing in mind the original question I would always choose a fixed blade in the woods because its stronger, more comfortable, and is easier to access and put away. Yes the sheath makes a difference, but if I like a fixed blade and don't like its supplied sheath, I'll have a better sheath made. Doesn't makes sense (IMHO of course) to reject a knife because of its sheath.

My personal (and current) favorite general purpose small (5" anyway) fixed blade for the kind of backpacking I do is my Livesay model 131 Air Assault.

 
If I'm to be restricted to one sub 4" blade for all around use, make mine either the Fallkniven F1 or my trusty ole Buck 102. If it's to be one blade, I want one of these two because they can handle or have handled any task I've asked of them to date.

They cut well, they take a good beating, the handles fit and are insulated from heat and cold. Best of all, they both sharpen up nicely when they need it. Granted these aren't super mega choppers or combat knives, but they handle their intended tasks well.

I haven't had any desert or jungle experience
with either, but I'm sure they'd handle those conditions nicely. Both have seen extensive subarctic Adirondack weather conditions and handle that climate easily. Both have seen limited oceanside climates and some nasty humid southern heat as well.

They are both outfitted with Normark's multi-carry concealex sheaths to maximize my carry options. Inside the waist band in urban environments (covered with a jacket or shirt) or in some arctic conditions. For hot humid conditions, the blade would be worn cross draw on the belt outside the pants to maximize availability with either hand and to keep chafing to a minimum.

The Fallkniven is new and doesn't have a big history with me yet. However, that Buck has been with me for decades; it has dressed and skinned many woodland critters, made tent pegs and trap pegs, cut camp meat, cut cordage of all types, cut boxes, cut kindling, etc etc etc. The Buck was with me when I became a tad confused for a few days in the Adirondacks back when I was 19 or 20. It comforted me then as it does now.

I'm sure either of my choices would be of great use in any environment my dumb a** might get stuck in. I have faith in both.

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It's not the pace of life that concerns me, It's the sudden stop at the end.
 
Mine would be a fixed blade, no moving parts to worry about. probably lighter for the same size blade and handle.
 
I'd take a 4" drop point hunter with a somewhat rough finished, big bead blasted micarta handle, out of D2 or BG-42 or CPM420V, custom made, full or tapered tang, probably 3/16" stock, with a stout flat grind that left the tip strong. Those steels stay sharp longer. Kydex sheath. Probably cross draw sheath carried closer to front than side to keep from snagging on brush, with a lanyard keeper set up to make blade loss very unlikely. You can keep a knife in a sheath without tethering it to the sheath or resorting to a flap or other "two handed" affair. I have a couple knives set up this way, too complicated to explain in text...a sketch required.

Cheaper: Fallkniven F1 approximates the above very well. Great knife for money. Leather flap sheaths leave much to be desired, however.

Why: A stout, full tang stain resistant knife with tough handle and in a kydex sheath has many fewer things that can go wrong compared with a folder in the boonies.


[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 02-06-2001).]
 
Fixed blade for me too. They are just tougher in general than a folder. Less moving parts to go bad. I prefer a full tang with micarta scales. Hard to beat that combo for durability. I also prefer carbon steel because it's easier to sharpen and usually takes a nice edge.

Given that criteria, my knife of choice would be a Busse Lean Mean Street. This is the guy:
lmss.jpg


Infi steel is hard to beat, and it's slightly thinner than the Mean Street (which is 1/4") so it has improved slicing ability over the Mean Street but at 3/16" and flat ground Infi, it's still pretty rugged.

My second choice would be a Dozier General Utility. With D2, it's borderline stainless and may be a little hard to sharpen on a rock but it's still a pretty tough knife.

For hard use carry, I would want a kydex sheath backed up with a snap around the handle but I wouldn't turn my nose up at a good deep pouch-style leather sheath. For jungle conditions, I'd say kydex and for arctic conditions, I'd probably go with leather because I don't know how kydex would hold up under subzero conditons.

As for full tang under arctic conditions, some might argue that the cold steel would be hard on your hands. You could fix that with some electrical or bicycle "handlebar" tape wrapped around the butt or just wear some good deerskin or even neoprene gloves. Some recommend slipping a piece of bike innertube over the handle as well.


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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM


[This message has been edited by Hoodoo (edited 02-06-2001).]
 
Fix blade hand down. Low maintenance, strong construction with very few moving parts.
smile.gif
Let' s face it. With a fix blade you can pry, scoop, throw and bludgeon where you' ll wish you didn' t have just that folder.

My Dozier Agent or General Utility. D2 stays sharp, can really slice and dice, reasonably stainless, and can emit sparks easier (?) than hi chromium content stainless steels when there is a need to start a fire.

Nakano
 
Barring any size restrictions that may have you consider a folder, the natural choice would be a Fixed Blade. Carry System would probally be a well thopught out Kydex carry system.

Remember, a folder is just a pre-broken fixed blade
wink.gif


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Stay Sharp!
Will Fennell
Camillus Cutlery
www.camillusknives.com
 
Fixed blade, without question, for the reasons that have been given already.
But I still prefer leather sheaths. Ya, leather can rot and get cut etc, but it can be maintained and even repaired in the field and I do like how it ages. However, I have been using kydex lately and there is much to recommend it.
 
Fixed Blade. Folders are a Sheeple Friendly compromise that sacrafices strength, durability and reliability for Political Correctness.

a four inch Chris Reeve One Piece would be my choice. Even though Kydex has some disadvantages, (noise, wears finishes)I don't like moisture holding leather with carbon steel blades.
 
Here is my choice: the Rob Simonich Cetan in Talonite (r), with titanium scales.

No concerns about corrosion, will hold an edge for a very long time, and is then easy to resharpen. Strong and reliable. No effect on blade strength with extremes of high or low temperatures. Kydex sheath won't rot. Two thumbs up.

<A HREF="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=306668&a=2279510&p=40616425&Sequence=0&res=high" TARGET=_blank>
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The Mad Dog logo is on my son's t-shirt, and I need a white background for pics. No endorsement of MD products is intended.
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Walt
 
Fix blade no contest in my book,Dozier, Reeves,Falkniven.

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Ray
 
Fixed blade, convex grind, full tang, sheep horn handle, choil to allow grip with finger forward of single guard, hand forged of 52100 by Ed Fowler or Rick Dunkerly. Pouch sheath, Kydex covered with leather. Carry on right side on seam line of pants. Tie sheath to pants with stout string. (Anti-BM loss device
wink.gif
) Near ocean keep it clean and grease frequently. Wheeeew!

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Si Vis Pacern Parabellum
Semper Ubi Sub Ubi
 
I'm going to vote for my partially serrated Spyderco Chinook.

It has an incredibly solid lock.

The blade design has a significant belly on the front part of the bade. I can use that for carving, without engaging the serrated part.

It has a serrated part for rope and stuff.

It does have a thin tip that is real upswept, but if I'm in a survival situation, I'm going to be very reluctant to loan out my knife, and I haven't broken the tip off a knife yet.. plus with the swedge, it is stronger than it looks.

Todd (edgedance)
 
Nice one Walt! Will 154cm be ok or will I die screaming into the wilderness?
wink.gif


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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
 
BTW, Walt, how well does the talonite Cetan take to hammering on the spine for chopping small saplings?

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Hoodoo

I get some pleasure from finding a relentlessly peaceful use for a combative looking knife.
JKM
 
HOODOO,
My SIMONICH CETAN [the proto] and my TALON have handled stuff like that just fine.

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Stay Sharp!
Will Fennell
Camillus Cutlery
www.camillusknives.com
 
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