One Variety Quench

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Jul 23, 2006
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1,231
Hi Folks,

I have been researching various quench oil's typically used by bladesmiths on this forum. And there seems to be many varieties of oils available to the aspiring bladesmith. Is there a particular quench oil that could be used to heat treat a variety of steels? Is there one particular oil that you solely rely on for your quenching needs? Thus far Ive been reading about the use of everything from used motor oil, olive oil, to Park's #50 and McMaster-Carr.

Thanks,

Bob
 
I have tried everything from Goddards Goo to Parks 50. Parks 50 works extremely well and I much prefer it to anything else I have tried. However I have a paint can full of everthing from used motor oil, used hydrolic fluid, olive oil, peanut oil, lard, and crisco cooking oil, kind of a hodge podge of everything. It was mainly excess from trials that ended up in the paint can. (This can has never had paint in it) I tried to quench some O1in it to see how it would work and had great results. Just goes to show that you can quench pretty cheap with a variety of materials. But for my money I still like Parks 50.
 
I second the Parks #50. Get yourself some of Aldo's 1084 and you will have a good match. It will work well with higher carbon steels as you progress as well.

Different steels will need different quench speeds but if you are starting out, 1080/1084 is a great steel and quite easy to heat treat if you do not have much more than a forge and a magnet.

There are two very good posts here called Eutectoid steel and Hypereutectoid Steel. I recommend you read them both. It will give you a good foundation as to why 1084 is a great steel to start with and Parks #50 would be just the ticket for that.

Eric
 
Hi Folks,

I have been researching various quench oil's typically used by bladesmiths on this forum. And there seems to be many varieties of oils available to the aspiring bladesmith. Is there a particular quench oil that could be used to heat treat a variety of steels? Is there one particular oil that you solely rely on for your quenching needs? Thus far Ive been reading about the use of everything from used motor oil, olive oil, to Park's #50 and McMaster-Carr.

Thanks,

Bob

The quenchant dilemma comes from the fact that modern steels come in different hardening categories due to their alloying- water, oil, and air. Within these categories are steels with varying depths of hardenability. The reason knifemakers have gotten the satisfactory results they have is due to the saving grace of thinner cross sections since it is easier to get a higher hardness from a water hardening steel with oil if the thickest part is only 3/16”, if we were dealing with thicker and more complex sections many of the quench mediums that we get by with would not work at all.

For our purposes it is easiest to break it all down into water and oil hardening categories, but I prefer to label them shallow and deep hardening, once again due to the thickness we work with making water based quenchants somewhat overkill. This makes it easier to also categorize our quenchants into fast or medium to slower speed oils. Two basic categories for the steel and two basic categories for the oils, so that is not that bad after all.

One thing that having these quenching limitations can do for us is to discipline us into working with just one or two steels. The better smiths out there pick one or two steels to work with and learn inside and out, and one can spend years just doing that. Trying to juggle the learning curve of a half dozen steels at once is not a very effective recipe for success.

If you are working mostly with 10XX series steels you will definitely want a fast oil, Houghton offers some, Parks #50 definitely falls into this category. If you are working with 5160, 52100, O1, L6 and other alloyed steels you will want an medium or slower speed oil, this is something like Parks AAA, many of the commonly mentioned Chevron and Texaco products and others.

You cannot successfully quench 10XX in a medium speed oil but you can quench some alloyed steels in a fast oil as long as the sections are thin and simple, but there will be greater issues with distortion and stress. I would say that your best plan is to choose your steel that you really want to work with and then choose the best quenchant for it. If you want to work with two steels, I prefer an edge holder and a tough chopper, then you can make it easier to choose two steel within the same hardening category. For shallow hardening you could for example choose W1, W2 or 1084 and 15n20, for deeper hardening you could choose 52100 and 5160, or O1 and L6 as just two examples.
 
I have copied most of the posts on Eutectoid steel and Hypereutectoid Steel and am putting together a binder on heat treating. Thanks for the directives to those posts. Seems like the Park's #50 is a most forgiving quench and can handle a variety of quenching situations. From what I'm learning, my choice of 1095 (a fast quench type steel) might not have been the proper steel for me to start with. On the other hand, I have a mess of it, so I'll learn how to make it work. I'll also be getting some Hypoeuticoid steel in the future.

Thanks
 
Park's #50 may not be the most forgiving, but it is one of the fastest besides water/brines. An as Kevin said, some medium speed quenching steels can be quenched succesfully without too many problems in Park's 50, so it is likely the most useful to have. 1095 should harden up great in the #50.

Check out the for-sale area as see if Patriqq is still selling the Park's 50 in the 5 gallon buckets.

--nathan
 
If I was looking for one quench oil to deal with shallow and medium hardening steel, I would try Houghton International's Houghto-quench "G". It is in a speed range that is very good for O1. Most would think it would be too slow to fully quench 1065-1095, W1, W2 but Scott McKenzie (posts on both BS and SFI and is Houghton's metallurgist and quenchant specialist) has stated a number of times HQ "G" will fully quench 1/4" with lower distortion than faster oils (Park #50, HQ "K", etc.).

Brownell's "Tough Quench" is repackaged Houghto-quench "G". They sell it by the gallon. One gallon will quench 1 pound of steel so a blade will adequately quench in that amount.

Scott has made an offer on BS... if someone wants to know where local Houghton quench oil distributors and users are, he will provide that information if you ask in an e-mail from the forum.

Houghton also makes a fast oil... as fast or faster than Park's #50, Scott says... for those who think they can't quench without. Houghto-quench "K".

It may be a person can get their hands on Park quench oils now, but historically it has been difficult to aquire... the ease of aquiring seems to come and go. You can buy Houghton oils everyday.

Mike
 
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