• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

Ontario Marine Raider

It took awhile! Hours. Basically did a manual re-grind. The knife doesn't need that of course. You could just lower the edge bevel and you'd vastly improve the chopping performance. Or even just de-shoulder it a little bit. Out of the box, this knife does not chop well. There's too much drag. It won't bite deeply into wood. Contrast it with a Becker BK9, for example, which will cut like a demon out of the box.
 
what is the tang like? stick? ill? any holes? I would like to rehandle mine yet am afraid to remove the original until I know what I am getting into
Thanks. No, just as a hobby. For the grind, I rested the blade bevel flat on my DMT Diasharp XX Coarse and removed steel until the secondary bevel was much smaller. The knife tip is already thin so I avoided removing steel from that area. I like the two-tone look.
A cousin with a fancy wood working tool made the job much easier. He provided the wood scales with grooves machined (for mortised construction).
 
I've had mine for about 10 years and have beaten the hell out of it. No problems at all, although I try to avoid any type of prying with the tip. Not that its a weak tip, its just more pinpoint than my BK2 or GSO 5.1. Of course, its a bowie style blade and not the sharpened pry bar type.

I did put a nice convex edge on it with my worksharp, and squared off a section of the spine for a ferro rod. I never sharpened the swedge. It's already a bit sharp for battoning, but still splits wood like a maul.

Edit: the sheath serves its purpose just fine for me, although the leg strap ring pulled out of the sheath the very first time I tied it to my leg

I also wrap the handles of my larger knives with hockey grip tape but thats a personal preference thing.
 
yup...I took a bunch of steel off the top of the blade to get the blade width to my liking, and in so doing the spine of the blade is no longer aligned with the handle. If you note the original blades have a spine that is in line with the handle, yet diverges from the edge from the guard to the clip. I filed the spine until the spine and edge were closer to parallel,. actually makes the knife more functional for me, lighter, better balanced,
 
Last edited:
Back
Top