Cliff Stamp
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 5, 1998
- Messages
- 17,562
Got an RTAK and there are a couple of points which stand out as problematic :
1) The handle is really squarish on top, nicely rounded on the bottom and the center swell isn't as heaviyl curved as it was on Newts version which I found so uncomfortable I chopped it off, however on the top it is uncomfortable even in a tight grip.
2) There is little to no guard, and the rear end hook is also fairly slight, so the grip retention could be problematic in extreme situations, plus heavy stabbing is a concern.
3) The initial sharpness is very low, no shaving ability, can slice paper in some regions not in others, does not cut light vegetation well. For cheap machetes this is ok, but for something costing 10x what a cheap machete does, it is kind of off that it needs to be honed right out of the box.
4) Along those lines, the sharpening isn't going to be trivial either as the grinds are uneven, and the edge not finished honed, just left with a rough belt finish so it is burred and left rairly ragged, so it isn't a matter of a few touchups and off you go.
5) After measuring the edge it is also obvious why this knife suffered blowouts. This one dips down to under 0.015" thick behind the edge. On a knife this size and weight, that seems to me to be far too thin for wood work. Grasses fine, but take that to a knot and you are just asking for trouble. I just ordered a custom bowie made out of a high end steel with a 12" blade and I went to 0.025" to be safe, maybe 0.020" as a practical limit, but certainly not under, and certainly on a production knife.
On the positive :
1) The blade length is a real 10", by this I mean no ten inches to the grip or including the guard, actual ten inches of sharpened edge.
2) The grip is really long, almost a hand and a half length. This allows you to move back for more power as well as ahead for a lighter grip for precison work. The balance is right ahead of the handle on the blade, so in a regular full grip the knife is just slightly blade heavy.
3) It has a full flat grind profile on wide stock (2"), and thin steel (3/16") so the cutting ability should be high (possible concern noted in the above).
4) The tip swedge has its + & -'s though, its not sharpened so it won't be that much of a drawback on baton work, however it does leave the tip fairly thin, heavy wood work with this pryign wise is out of the question. The tip would not stand up to later work in woods, however it would go into woods (and anything else) *much* easier than something with a stronger tip.
The sheath is prety standard low end production, synthetic over a rigid backing. Stitching is a bit frayed in places, but looks solid. Low ride rigging, plut other attachment points, no drainage hole, but a utility pouch.
-Cliff
1) The handle is really squarish on top, nicely rounded on the bottom and the center swell isn't as heaviyl curved as it was on Newts version which I found so uncomfortable I chopped it off, however on the top it is uncomfortable even in a tight grip.
2) There is little to no guard, and the rear end hook is also fairly slight, so the grip retention could be problematic in extreme situations, plus heavy stabbing is a concern.
3) The initial sharpness is very low, no shaving ability, can slice paper in some regions not in others, does not cut light vegetation well. For cheap machetes this is ok, but for something costing 10x what a cheap machete does, it is kind of off that it needs to be honed right out of the box.
4) Along those lines, the sharpening isn't going to be trivial either as the grinds are uneven, and the edge not finished honed, just left with a rough belt finish so it is burred and left rairly ragged, so it isn't a matter of a few touchups and off you go.
5) After measuring the edge it is also obvious why this knife suffered blowouts. This one dips down to under 0.015" thick behind the edge. On a knife this size and weight, that seems to me to be far too thin for wood work. Grasses fine, but take that to a knot and you are just asking for trouble. I just ordered a custom bowie made out of a high end steel with a 12" blade and I went to 0.025" to be safe, maybe 0.020" as a practical limit, but certainly not under, and certainly on a production knife.
On the positive :
1) The blade length is a real 10", by this I mean no ten inches to the grip or including the guard, actual ten inches of sharpened edge.
2) The grip is really long, almost a hand and a half length. This allows you to move back for more power as well as ahead for a lighter grip for precison work. The balance is right ahead of the handle on the blade, so in a regular full grip the knife is just slightly blade heavy.
3) It has a full flat grind profile on wide stock (2"), and thin steel (3/16") so the cutting ability should be high (possible concern noted in the above).
4) The tip swedge has its + & -'s though, its not sharpened so it won't be that much of a drawback on baton work, however it does leave the tip fairly thin, heavy wood work with this pryign wise is out of the question. The tip would not stand up to later work in woods, however it would go into woods (and anything else) *much* easier than something with a stronger tip.
The sheath is prety standard low end production, synthetic over a rigid backing. Stitching is a bit frayed in places, but looks solid. Low ride rigging, plut other attachment points, no drainage hole, but a utility pouch.
-Cliff