Ontario sp10 marine raider mods

deltablade

deltablade

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Jul 29, 2006
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I think the blade shape on the Marine Raider is better with the swedge moved back toward the handle a little. It is a fairly easy mod with some grinding and filing. I also shortened the top guard to make it handle a little easier. Now the question is should I re-handle with leather washers or wood?

starting point

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Finished product.
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I haven’t seen one with wood handles yet, so that would be my vote. But the amount of force usually applied to this knife (it’s a chopper) suggests that leather may last longer. A lot of vibration will be transmitted to the handle if you keep it as a user.
 
I like leather spacers too, yet am kinda stumped about that to do for the pommel. I can find stainless, yet would prefer carbon pommel. I may have a welder weld a threaded rod onto the tang, then add a carbon steel pommel and secure it with a nut.
 
If you decided to use wood you wouldn’t have to worry about a pommel. There should be another hole beneath the rubber that you can pin. Also, you can maintain the current shape of the handle. Maybe several micarta spacers would cut down on the vibration transmitted to the handle. Wood will be a really quick option, as cutting the wood to size, then drilling two holes is pretty much all you need to do for the fitting. Long story short, if you are lazy go with wood(no judgements, leather spacers are a lot of work in themselves, leaving alone the work needed for the pommel—although you would be able to change the guard) but if you’ve got a lot of time, go with leather. Another option would be micarta. It’s not likely to break, unlike wood, and doesn’t require as much effort as leather. I hope your project turns out beautifully, whichever you decide.
 
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deltablade said:
I replaced a Kabar Bowie handle with a combination of leather and wood. worked pretty well, yet doesnt have the look of a steel pommel

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Wow, this looks an order of magnitude better than the original, I am really impressed. Looks like you really know what you’re doing, and don’t need any outside input at all! There is micarta in there as well, right? Also I really like how you added a guard—the omission of which I find irritating on bowies. I see why you don’t want to do the same on the Ontario, as you are looking for a challenge, am I right?
 
the wood is Osage orange and will darken with more exposure to sunlight. The problem I had was routing out a slot in the wood to fit over the tang, then locating the hole in the tang to put the copper rod pin through. Glad you think it came out ok. There is micarta next to the guard, and the guard is blued carbon steel..
 
deltablade said:
the wood is Osage orange and will darken with more exposure to sunlight. The problem I had was routing out a slot in the wood to fit over the tang, then locating the hole in the tang to put the copper rod pin through. Glad you think it came out ok. There is micarta next to the guard, and the guard is blued carbon steel..
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I think “ok” is an understatement. The fact that you put a slot in the wood, rather than just leaving the tang exposed indicates that you put every effort into making the knife look as professional as possible. I’m definitely looking forward to seeing what you do with the sp-10.
I know I basically already said this but to my eye, you’ve improved the appearance of that bowie many times over. Any slight imperfections should either wear down or can easily be corrected—the dyeing of the wood closest to the leather, or the epoxy surrounding the pins can be “camouflaged” with brass or wood shavings, for example.
 
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In terms of functionality, have you noticed any difference in the amount of vibration felt in the hand? I assume that if held correctly while chopping, there isn’t an increase—since you added micarta and stacked leather, the handle is probably more comfortable. I’m just guessing, I don’t know if you use it as such.
 
I havent noticed vibration, yet will pay more attention next time and report back
 
I'm in for stacked leather as well. It'll be a challenge. And you push yourself to a new level by practicing on that pommel.
 
stacked leather it is. I have decided to try this method for attaching a threaded rod to the tang so I can add a steel pommel.
Used a 1/4" stainless bolt and will use brass nut to secure and tighten handle washers.
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ground bolt head to fit into lanyard hole in tang, and cut tapered slot in tang to grab threaded portion

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Stripped coating off

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Tapped bolt in

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I plan to solder the bolt head into the tang, and would appreciate comments as to the feasibility of this. I havent soldered before.
It would have been better if I had squared off the end of the tang so the pommel could rest on a flat surface. I inlet the pommel this time.
 
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I would advise using silver solder. It's stronger and will hold well to the steel. You'll need a propane torch, some flux and the solder. Apply the flux generously and then bring the heat up slowly. As you heat the joint, periodically apply the tip of the solder until it starts to melt. Once it does, feather the heat keeping it just hot enough to liquify the solder and fill the joint.
 
deltablade said:
do you recommend liquid or paste flux?
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Paste flux. It will stay put better until the heat comes up. At temperature it doesn't make much of a difference really because even the paste will melt and run. That won't matter though as it will wet the surface and do its job regardless (cleaning the surface and keeping oxygen away from the steel).
 
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