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willy m

Joined
Nov 27, 2007
Messages
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i just started forging about a month ago, things are coming along nicely.one thing i learned was not to leave the strings to your hooded sweatshirt hang down while your forging!! what a flaming development that was.fortunatly the only damage was to my hood. is there a way to figure out how much downbend to put on a blade so it doesnt end up a banna? i bend it down at the begining and if it wasnt enough i try to work some of it out when i forge in the distal taper. i always end up grinding the final point shape rather than forging it i was hoping mabey for a few ideas?thanks....willy:)
 
Have you learned:

Just 'cause it ain't red doesn't mean it ain't hot?

Don't catch falling stuff around the forge?

:D

I usually control the bend in the blade using a wooden hammer or large wooden stick depending on where and how severe the bend is. The wooden hammer will move the metal without changing the shape like a metal hammer. Like you I grind in the final tip shape, mainly because I worry about carbon loss at the thin tip.
 
I straighten the horrid banana grimlin by heating the blade an swinging it like a hammer,striking the spine of the blade flat on the anvil.(should strike anvil edge up and flat on the spine). moves everthing square again.Course I don't do most thing right.
 
The demo's at the HI will really answer your questions. Gary Rua will forge out a blade in 15 minutes.:eek:
 
I learned it by just doing it over and over. I am to the point where I get pretty close to the drop point up upturn that I'm aiming for. I then tweak it lightly at the end to get it right where I want it. Practice, practice, practice. It'll come to you.
 
Take a piece of flat stock.Forge it into a completed blade as is. ( don't try to prevent the banana) Look at the amount of up-curve. That is the amount of down curve you need to start with. The final shape will develop with careful forging and should come out exactly what you want -with practice. Don't do all of one thing and then all of another, rather, form the blade shape (including distal taper) as one complete process. Sort of bend-draw-widen-taper-widen-bend-draw-etc.
Stacy
 
well guys yes i have learned just cause it aint red dont mean its not hot! in fact ive learned it a few times.and i probaly will learn it a few more.also i found out just cause i dipped my tongs in icy water dont mean there cool either! im gonna try forging out a nice banna so i have an idea about the bend i need. also i have been doing it all of ont thing then another. so ill give it a try the other way....thanks,willy
 
I used to pre bend the piece before I forged in the bevels, but now I like to straighten it with each heat like so, heat, straiten, forge bevels, heat, straiten, forge bevels, and so on.
 
My recomendation "Go to the Hammer-In".I went to one 2 weeks ago. received personal instruction from Mr .James Batson, Mr. Greg Neely.Mr.Tommy McNabb,and Mr.Bill Wiggens.Hands on type instruction.Also something that helped me was Ed caffery's video on basic forgeing.I watch it about once a week,and learn something different every time.
 
ive been thinking about a video but there are so many and at 30-40 dollars a pop that can get expensive! im hoping to learn a pile at ig's hammer in.....willy
 
willy m said:
ive been thinking about a video but there are so many and at 30-40 dollars a pop that can get expensive! im hoping to learn a pile at ig's hammer in.....willy
Click to expand...
You will:thumbup: What type of a demo would be first on your list?????:D
 
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