Oosic fighter project

Well I spent some time with the blade on the 12" disk and went to 180 with it. Ready for HT. I also used some regular super glue on the end and I think it is getting where I want it. I would put it on a bit t a time and let it fill the pores and and after a bit give it a bit more here and there. Looking good I think.

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Here it is post HT. I am thinking of putting a 1/8" thick spacer of copper between the WI spacer and the Oosic and using one 3/32 copper pin. I hidden alignment pins to line up guard spacers and Oosic. If I make the copper space fit the tag fairly tight and epoxy it to the Oosic and drill the tang pin I can line everything up better repeatedly. I think the copper would go well with the Oosic and a browned finish blade Opinions please. Yes the tang is welded on. It was stress relieved and the weld will be inside the WI spacer.

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That's looking good Jim! I think your copper idea is a good one. Have you thought about browning the guard and spacer?

That's nice damascus too!
 
Jim, The knife is looking good! Everytime I have done osic the epoxy will wick out from several of the pours. If you can seal the inside of the tang channel before you epoxy it together you'll be more happy with the results.
 
Dave. I was thinking of leaving the WI its dark grey after the etch, The brown might be a good idea. Does the WI brown well? The Damascus is a piece I got from Chad Nickols a couple years ago. I used to cruise Ebay all the time looking for his and Craig Barr's stuff and bought as much as I could afford when the bids were low. I have maybe 35 pieces squirreled away. I think it was better than the stock market for investment! Barr has changed to a 5160 1018 mix which I don't like and his 1095/15n20 has gone way up in price. Chad don't sell on Ebay anymore. I have got to know him a bit and he is a great guy. He now does a lot of stainless now and supplies it and 1095/15n20 thru Texas Knife Supply. His email is chadn28@hotmail.com. He send me a nice piece of his stainless damascus in a trade for some nickel a while back. I have made some damascus on my own, but, without a press or hammer it takes way to much time effort for me to make a lot. I have some of the pieces for a press. Need a 5 HP or more electric motor, pump and valve. Have a frame and big cylinder.

Ray, thanks for the tip, any suggestions on how to seal it. Would swabbing it with epoxy or super glue on a Q tip work? I was thinking of using JB weld in the channel. Would that wick out?
 
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Jim and inputting Friends,

Just wanted to say, THANKS! I learn so much with this open process of the progress thread and the ensuing dialog....and, it's lots of FUN too! Plus, I get to see some really cool stuff. Looking good Jim! I can't wait to see some more.

Mahalo, Phil
 
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Love this one. Looks a lot like somewhere in the style evolution from spanish dirk to bowie.
 
Been busy but did get some time this yesterday and today in the lat evenings. Here it is hand sanded to 400 grit. I am going to etch my mark, then go to 2000 grit. I can see the damascus pattern real well as is. Jim

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Ray, thanks for the tip, any suggestions on how to seal it. Would swabbing it with epoxy or super glue on a Q tip work? I was thinking of using JB weld in the channel. Would that wick out?[/QUOTE]

Jim, The JB Weld is thick enough where you wouldn't have any of the wicking problems.
 
If you plan on "wiping" super glue on use lens cleaning tissue. When I do a super glue finish on a handle I'll heat some thin super glue then use lens cleaning tissues to wipe it onto the handle. Think of them as disposable, LINTFREE brushes ;)
 
Will, could you go into a bit more detail on that? I use a bristle paint brush to "paint" the SG over the handle after dropping a bit on the surface. How do you apply the SG? Drops on the surface and them pull them around with the tissue? Or do you wet the tissue somehow and use it that way? I know Scott Slobodian does something similar to your method, but I've never been able to actually figure out how to do it.

My method gets the stuff spread around fine but it is not a smooth surface. I have to sand it off, reapply, sand etc until the wood or whatever is filled, then buff it for its finish.
 
Thanks for the tips and complements guy, Off to etch and sand some more and get some lens tissues. BTW I am going make a copper spacer and take a look at it with that. Jim
 
Jim, I like that damascus pattern. Cant wait to see how it looks etched and polished up.
This is a great project. Thanks for putting up the pics of it.
 
Thanks guys. Here it is sanded to 2000 grit with a sanding block I made and a adjustable support to hold it stiff while I sand. I hit it with the high chrome polish on my buffer for a bit to. It is shiny but, you can still see the pattern well. Bruce, I don't plan to etch this damascus, but, brown it. I picked up some Birchwood Casey plum brown that Nick recommended and am going to try that. The 1095 should brown well and the nickel should stay shiny. Says you heat the clean metal to 275f and then swab it on, allow to cool. then warm it back up to 275 and reapply, repeat till happy, then rinse with hot water, dry, oil and allow to set overnight. I think I can do it.

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Jim, go ahead and try it that way first, but I think you're going to need to etch it first to get the best results.

If you etch it, get it good and clean, then brown several times, and then sand back over it with 2000x and a steel block (no give like wood, rubber, etc.) then it will highlight the nickel.

I'm not SURE that you have to do it that way though... that's jut how I've done it.

Let us know how it goes! :)

Oh, for the 275F Birchwood recommends, I set up a piece of 1/16" O1 sheet on a hot plate burner. I get a nice, even heat that way. A heat gun would probably work well also, I just didn't have one the last time I browned fittings.
 
Hmmmm, couple really good thoughts right there. I have blued polished 1095/nickel. But, never browned it. It shows up pretty good blued. But, if I etch it first like you say the nickel will be high and a hard 2000 grit block it will reshine the nickel. I like it. I will check it out with some of the left overs from the billet. I been thinking of getting a heat gun, but, I was thinking a piece of plate in an oven.
Thanks, Jim
 
ib2v4u said:
Barr has changed to a 5160 1018 mix which I don't like and his 1095/15n20 has gone way up in price.
Click to expand...

Jim I contacted Craig Barr directly and expressed my concern with the very low carbon content, that the 5160/1018 would produce. His reply back to me was that he made a hatchet with it and it was the sharpest hatchet he had ever made, and held an edge well.:eek:
So I guess that's all you need for a knife right???:D:D
Good thing for him that he makes nice patterns...
Matt
 
Well I got some sanding and fitting done on the hardware. Set the spacer up to pin to the guard and got those sanded to 400. Is that good for etching WI. Got the Oosic fit but I need to do some coats of superglue and sanding/polishing on it. Didn't go with the copper and I am going to go with a single 3/16" mosaic pin for the Ossic. Going to etch the blade tommorrow and then brown it. Ferric chloride and then some time in boiling water for the WI.
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Hi Jim (and Friends),

It is so cool that you're doing this progress thread. I am learning so much. Can I ask a rather funky question? How do you go about drilling the holes in the spacer and guard so everything lines up? Do you drill clean through the spacer from the handle side into the guard? Or...

Thanks, Phil
 
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