Opening methods for a folder?

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Jul 14, 2011
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I'm trying to figure out a way to manufacture a opening method for this knife. It seems too thin for a thumbstud. I'm thinking about a nail nick or something, but I'm pretty sure I don't have the tools to do it. Saw, drill, bits, sandpaper and files. Anyone have a good idea? It has a 2.75" long blade, and around 3/8" of blade exposed at the first finger choil when folded. Also, if there's any design flaws, please point them out. It's supposed to be a liner lock, and the line on the scales indicates where the lock will be cut out, with the lock face starting from where the line stops. Thanks for the help!
Sushi.png
 
I'm afraid I don't have the precision to drill a thumb disc with just a drill. As for making the choil deeper.. would it make the lock too thin?
 
If 3/8" of the blade is exposed that would be plenty of room for a stud
 
You can also just hollow out a spot for the thumbstud to sit in the lock.Use a round file.
Stan
 
I'd saw some thumb stud on some kinfe kit website,
you don't need drill hole on your blade, just clamp and screwed tight,
I don't want to put on the link so if you need just PM me
 
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The thumbstud only needs to be on the opposite side of the lock, so it won't affect the lock at all.

I don't know if that's all to scale, with the pivot and stop in their final location or not.

But, if it is, it is unlikely to work well.

You gotta have room for washers in there, and don't forget the detent ball and the arc it swings as the blade is opened.
You don't want a detent to fall off anywhere, or encroach on the bevel.
 
If you want a basic way to cut a nail nick, you can do it with a dremel with a cutoff wheel. If you have a cross slide vice for your drill press, using the cutoff wheel is even easier. Hope this helps. -chris
 
First:
Make a plastic or sheet metal mock-up of the blade,lock side liner, pivot and stop pin. Find the lock position on the liner that way. Make everything exact size, and use those as a template for making the parts. I think you will have to move the pivot and stop from where they are drawn.

Next:
Use a thumb stud on the blade. You only need to drill a small hole in the blade for the stud screw. If the stud strikes the liner and scale, just file a small pocket on that side for the stud to seat into. You can use a Dremel with a cylinder burr to do this easily.

Last:
If you are worried about drilling holes and making grooves, you may not have the tools and experience to make a liner lock knife. You will have to make several precision holes and have exact placement of several parts. The liner lock will have to be slotted and the blade lock will have to be carefully beveled. You might want to consider making a friction folder,or a slip joint as they are less complex.
 
If enough of the blade is exposed above the frame or liner, many people don't use the nail nick, they just pinch the blade between their thumb and index finger and pull the blade open. You could re-profile the frame a bit so that enough of the blade is exposed to get ahold of with your fingers, no nail nick or stud required.

Weldon Whitley mentions this on his folding knife video.
 
May I suggest an opening system like at the Burger Exkelibur?
See the schematics and the quick rendering below, they are self explanatory (I hope). If you need more details, I will gladly provide. Anyway, thanks for the fun, I enjoyed toying with your knife :)

Minibear464_01.jpg


Minibear464_02.jpg
 
Wow. Thanks a lot to all of you for your help. And dialex, that's amazing. What program did you use? That opening method looks very unique, and I'll probably go with that. As for precision.. yeah, probably gonna be problems there. But I'm just going to try and see what happens. Can't believe I forgot about the detent ball, hehe.
 
You are most welcome. The drawing was done using CorelDRAW, it's very good for this kind of things. BTW, if you need the file with the knife at full scale, just PM me.
 
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