Opinel handle coating suggestions?

[mrszeontestpilot]

I'm currently modifying my first Opinel handle, and I'm looking for something to possibly coat it with. I won't be disassembling anything, as I don't trust myself in that area... So I'm thinking it would probably have to be something fairly simple. It's the stainless version, so previously untreated handles, I believe? Thanks in advance.

 

[jackknife]

I'm currently modifying my first Opinel handle, and I'm looking for something to possibly coat it with. I won't be disassembling anything, as I don't trust myself in that area... So I'm thinking it would probably have to be something fairly simple. It's the stainless version, so previously untreated handles, I believe? Thanks in advance.

I've had great luck with Helmsman Spar Urathane. A light sanding, and two light coats with a day to set between the coats. Gives good water and weather resistance. As an added step to slow down any swelling from water, I use Vasoline on a pipe cleaner to lube the pivot area, and just fold up a paper towel to wipe out the excess. You can actually submerge an Opinel after that.

 

[roosterscrow]

After refinishing quite a few Opinels, I found that I liked polyurethane better than lacquer. If you use either, I would recommend that you remove the locking ring and masking tape the inner ring to keep a clean finished edge.

The knife on top (#6) is finished with High Gloss Lacquer. The bottom knife (#8) is finished with satin polyurethane and I think it gives the better feel of the two.

Depending on the look your after, you might just coat it with some boiled linseed oil and I have been considering finishing one of my Opinels with coconut oil as that is what I use on my wood handled kitchen knives.

Here's a good thread for lots of Opinel mod ideas - http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...-Lets-see-opinels-Pic-Thread?highlight=opinel

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

If your Opinel is one of the standard 'orange' beech-handled versions, it'll need sanding to remove the factory varnish, which is what gives it that orange color. Other premium wood handles from Opinel aren't varnished. Depending on how recently you purchased, I think Opinel is now offering un-varnished beech handles on stainless knives (they don't have that orange hue).

This is my walnut No. 08, finished in Watco Danish Oil (the 'natural' finish, i.e. no dye/stain/colorant). So-called 'Danish Oil' is a mix of boiled linseed oil, thinner and varnish. Does a nice job sealing the wood, and is very durable. Very easy to apply in very light & thin coats, using a folded paper towel to make a 'pad' for wiping it on. I used three applications, with the first two applied about 30 minutes apart, and the last coat was applied after letting the first two cure for about 3 days. This is fairly consistent with the instructions on the container; very straightforward. No sanding needed afterwards, or even between coats:


David

 

[Captain28]

I'm a fan of TruOil. It's what we use on gunstocks in the shop, and what I prefer on all of my wood handles and walking sticks.

 

[Bighaze51]

I learned a nifty trick from slingshot builders. Superglue makes a great clear coat. Put on latex gloves, squirt a little glue on there and rub it in. Build a few coats and lightly sand it. It makes a good durable finish. Just don't get it in the pivot

 

[mrszeontestpilot]

Thanks for all the advice. I may try the helmsman spar urethane. I am curious about one thing though - I heard somewhere that people have used mineral oil as a coating. It seems like it may go rancid or something. Does anyone have any experience with that?

 

[aread]

I use several coats with a sharpie to color mine and then several coats of super glue to give it a high gloss finish.

I did this about 2 years ago. It turned out pretty good and the super glue has held up well.

Super glue makes an easy to use and economical finish for small projects like this.

 

[davek14]

I sand and dip in stain up to the collar. Stain has a little linseed oil in it commonly and will seal the inside a little I hope. Then I soak the whole knife in mineral oil for a week or two. Then I wipe it off and let it dry a good while and wipe it dry as I can and use whatever finish I'm tinkering with at the moment.

Right now it's Minwax wood hardener. Polyurethane is nice. If you wanna take the time to do multiple thin oats with a week drying time between, Tung oil (or linseed oil I guess) gives a finish you can get lost in.

 

[Captain28]

Thanks for all the advice. I may try the helmsman spar urethane. I am curious about one thing though - I heard somewhere that people have used mineral oil as a coating. It seems like it may go rancid or something. Does anyone have any experience with that?

Mineral oil won't go rancid, plus it's food safe. I use it to lube folding knives I might use for food prep. you'll have to reapply it if you use it on a handle. it soaks into the wood, it doesn't really coat it.

 

[pmeisel]

oil finish rule of thumb from gun stocks -- once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a year forever.... linseed oil is inexpensive and works well on other things (never tried it on a knife yet....) -- have used the Watco on knives with good results.

 

[billym]

Mineral oil won't go rancid, plus it's food safe. I use it to lube folding knives I might use for food prep. you'll have to reapply it if you use it on a handle. it soaks into the wood, it doesn't really coat it.

Try this. It leaves the natural feel of the wood but protects it from moisture. Plus you can use it on your Carbon steel blades.

 

[pietje]

I second using boiled linseed oil. Firs sand of the factory varnish. Use water to check if all the varnish is removed. When the handle is smooth, dry and clear of any coating you can apply the linseed oil. Multiple ultra-thin layers over several days give the best results.

Did this with several wood handle knifes including two opinels. The result is old school look (Linseed oil dates back centuries), a nice beech grain and deep protection. Also makes opening the knife smoother. succes!

 

[pinnah]

If the goal is to dye or stain to alter the color, suggest keeping the sanding to 80 grit, to keep the grain open enough to accept the stain.

Actually, I do this anyhow until I start putting the top protecting coat on. Only after a bunch of layers of top coat do I sand to finer finish.

 

[mrszeontestpilot]

It's been an interesting month, and I'm just now posting this. I did get it finished before Christmas. Couldn't find any small cans of the helmsman, so went with the super glue instead. It turned out fine, but I think next time I'd like to try the helmsman, even if I have to get a larger can.

 

[G. Scott H.]

I've used both Watco Danish and mineral oil. Watco cures while mineral needs to be occasionally reapplied, but mineral does have the advantage of keeping the wood moist (especially here in the desert). I like both. :thumbup: