Opinel Oyster Knife

it does look sharpened, i figured someone would call me on it, however, shucking knives SHOULDNT be sharp, they can have a v bevel to slip into the joint of the oyster but technically it isnt sharp like a pocket knife :D

Makes more sense that it shouldn't be that sharp. Sort of like the partial 'sharpened edge' on the screwdriver blade of a TL-29; just sharp enough for stripping/scraping insulation off of wire, but really too thick to be very dangerous. :thumbsup:
 
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Makes more sense that it shouldn't be that sharp. Sort of like the partial 'sharpened edge' on the screwdriver blade of a TL-29; just sharp enough for stripping/scraping insulation off of wire, but really too thick to be very dangerous. :thumbup:

word to that; couldnt have said it better myself
 
word to that; couldnt have said it better myself

Hello to you all! To make things clear and less confusing you need to know that only the last 1.5 cm of the oyster knife's blade is sharp (the tip). It would be unnecessary and dangerous to create a full edge on a knife that only need to penetrate the oyster and twist it open. Also, Bubinga wood is very resistant to water moisture if left untreated, additionally Opinel varnished the handle to make it even more resistant to moisture.

Thank you for keeping the conversation going,

Fred
 
Fred/OpiKnife... are you an official Opinel guy? If so, I'd like to see the No. 8 in drop point configuration made readily available again. It is the best Opinel in my opinion. As to this model in this thread... I like it for EDC usage. Living in Illinois, don't see much oyster shucking.

edited to add: the drop point no. 8 NEEDS to be in carbon steel please....
 
Looks like an interesting knife, but I agree with other posters, I wouldn't want to use it for opening oysters. Personally I like a good guard, with only a short sharpened section. The Opinel looks like an accident waiting to happen.
 
Looks like a trip to the ER waiting to happen. Never used any type of sharp edge for oysters (shucked a few bushels myself).
 
This knife does not have a sharp edge.
Just the tip is sharp (the last 1.5 cm / 0.59 inch)

Fred
 
Update.
Oyster knives just arrive. As previous mentioned the oyster knife has no cutting edge all the way to the the tip.
We are confirming this fact: The tip is not sharp, it is simply tapered down from 1.2 mm to about 0.3 mm.

This update is just to give you guys additional info...

Fred
 
Thanks Fred, ordered one this morning, but, I'm guessing that if a person wanted to continue sharpening they could put an regular edge on there to use as an every day carry folder? Hoping it's heat treated well enough to keep that edge, really hoping that's the case otherwise, dunno, I don't eat oysters just liked the way they used a shorter blade in a longer handle and that the handle doesn't have a groove all the way to the end, looks as others have mentioned, something that would be easy to make modifications to suit your personal tastes.
G2
 
I am a little unclear why, for the price, you don't just buy one and test it instead of asking for an opinion. Kinda like asking what people think about buying a $10 Mora...
 
Because he can. We LIKE to talk about knives.
 
Thumbs up Frank ;)

And if anyone has some photos of vid's of this knife, love to see them too, mine should arrive near the end of next week, but, curious people we are :)
G2
 
This got me thinking, I go to a least 4 Oyster roasts a year. I have always used the fixed blade cheap knives, but they don't fit in a pocket very well. It would be easy to modify a cheap sheath knife into a nice custom oyster knife. And be the envy of the other rednecks at the roasts.
 
Well she arrived tonight, the blade is leaf shaped and the point is not very pointy, on purpose I'm sure, but the edge is non existent nada zilch zip :)

So, going to call or email tomorrow to return and exchange for a different model

See the attached images one closed & one open with the edge facing you, notice the edge on both are the same

Closed notice the spine thickness;

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and here's the shot open with the edge towards you, notice that the blade is flat from the spine down to the other spine also known as the 'Edge' ;)

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Again, this was made this way on purpose, just couldn't tell from their advertising, a shot similar to what I quickly took would warn those that think it could also be made into an neat small blade for every day carry, when in fact it just wasn't designed to handle those types of chores or be turned to do those.

G2

image.jpgimage.jpg
 
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Gary, that's what I was trying to convey in post #2 of ths thread, any edge you want you will have to put on yourself, oyster knives are designed for shucking, and are more for penetration and prying rather than cutting (there are exceptions).

Pete
 
Yep didn't get that there was no grinding down from the spine at all, fixing an edge I can do but this would need ground down from the spine, not setup for that much metal to remove ;)
But I do like the blade to handle relationship
G2
 
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Is there anyway to do some sort of bevel?, it looks like it would make a nice utility/EDC knife.

Pete
 
Not that I could do, one thought I had was to do a Scandi edge on there

Think of it as just a full thickness blade blank that's what ya get
G2
 
That's kind of what I was thinking, but with not such a dramatic edge, or maybe convex it, maybe start wit a steep edge and then take off the shoulder, or you could just return it :-)

Pete
 
My kingdom for a belt sander!

She's going back, I'll exchange for another model as I only have the Garden which is amazing and an ebony slim model also very cool so I could use one of the standards
G2
 
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