Opinions of the Protech Avalon?

marrenmiller said:
It's not a 4.25" blade and I'm not sure why they keep saying it is. The blade on mine measures about 3.875".

I like it overall. The ergonomics are great and the action is amazingly clicky. It carries well and is light for the size of blade it offers. However, it is way too thick behind the edge and the plunge grind isn't executed very well. If I can remove the thumb studs, I'll be sending it to BGM for a hollow regrind.
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be sure to post the results, that would be cool to see. I'm inquiring with BGM and Transparent right now about a possible regrind, picking up a Hinderer and want to pimp it out
 
Unicorn161 said:
Protech says it's a 4.25" blade. But they also say the handle is 5.25 inches and the overall length is 9.25in. So I'm thinking they measure differently. The entire blade, including what's covered by the handle.
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Funny thing is, Protrech seems to measure their other knives differently and more in line with industry standards. This one is just different for some reason.

I was a bit disappointed because I was hoping for a 4.25" blade.
 
marrenmiller said:
Funny thing is, Protrech seems to measure their other knives differently and more in line with industry standards. This one is just different for some reason.

I was a bit disappointed because I was hoping for a 4.25" blade.
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4.25 is so big lol I have a Shiro 111 which is that size. Shiro is the king of blade to handle ratio, in the sense that they cram the largest blade possible into the shortest handle they can while still keeping it elegant. It carries more like a typical 3.8-4in folder
 
Got mine today. Definitely not 4.25"

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Unicorn161 said:
Protech says it's a 4.25" blade. But they also say the handle is 5.25 inches and the overall length is 9.25in. So I'm thinking they measure differently. The entire blade, including what's covered by the handle.
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That’s cheap. Like saying your ding dong is 8” but it’s really only 6
 
Measured a few things to try to figure it out. It's exactly 4.25" if you measure along the spine, basically tip to the far side of the jimping
 
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patrickguignot said:
Excellent knife with good blade to handle ratio and good fit and finish.
Only downside (already described by marrenmiller marrenmiller ) : it's a little thick behind the edge.

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Mine has been sent off to BGM for a hollow regrind. Getting the thumb studs off was not fun at all (heaps of red loctite), but the results should be worth it. I'll post a pic when it arrives.
 
marrenmiller said:
Mine has been sent off to BGM for a hollow regrind. Getting the thumb studs off was not fun at all (heaps of red loctite), but the results should be worth it. I'll post a pic when it arrives.
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That will turn out killer. I had him do a sheepsfoot XM18 for me and it's awesome. I'm about to send an Eklipse bowie as well. Definitely share some pics when you receive it!
 
Been carrying mine. I like it a lot.

I think the best comp is a bigger BM 943. It's not a slicer, it's a pointy durable edc. The 94x was designed that way, and the Peace Neighbor interviews say the same

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marrenmiller said:
Mine has been sent off to BGM for a hollow regrind. Getting the thumb studs off was not fun at all (heaps of red loctite), but the results should be worth it. I'll post a pic when it arrives.
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Did the studs get all marred up getting them off? Any tips?

I kind of want to try putting a wave hook on it but really like the blasted look and don't want to scratch them all up in the process.

Appreciate the heads up on it being red loctite by the way
 
kreole said:
Did the studs get all marred up getting them off? Any tips?

I kind of want to try putting a wave hook on it but really like the blasted look and don't want to scratch them all up in the process.

Appreciate the heads up on it being red loctite by the way
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I ended up using pliers on both sides and scratching them pretty badly. I'd recommend some soft jaws for your pliers if you go that route.

The only thing that works for getting the studs off is very high heat; boiling water didn't do a thing to the loctite. You need a soldering iron or a torch, but place some steel washers or something as a heat shield around the thumb stud to prevent the blade from heating up if you end up using a torch.
 
marrenmiller said:
I ended up using pliers on both sides and scratching them pretty badly. I'd recommend some soft jaws for your pliers if you go that route.

The only thing that works for getting the studs off is very high heat; boiling water didn't do a thing to the loctite. You need a soldering iron or a torch, but place some steel washers or something as a heat shield around the thumb stud to prevent the blade from heating up if you end up using a torch.
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Thank you!
 
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