Opinions on Survival Rig

Landi

Landi

Joined
Mar 4, 2007
Messages
1,960
Hey WSS,

I constructed and sold this knife last week. It was the first knife of my second batch and my first cord wrap. Out of 63 knives in my second batch it is the only one of it's kind, a prototype.

It was constructed out of 3/16 stock 1095. It is 11 3/8 OAL, with a 5 1/4 inch cutting edge, and a generous choil and ricasso area. It is a full flat grind from spine to edge.

The sheath is a Spec Ops 6 inch survival sheath. THe handle is wrapped in black cord and paracord. Some pics show an Atwood wrap while others a strider style.

Please hit me with questions and comments. I have had a lot of interest in this knife and would appreciate any further feedback. So far, some would like it in 1095, but would rather have A2, 1/4 stock and 3/16 stock, some cord wrapped while others with G10 and/or Micarta.

Sorry about the washed out look on the blade at times, I am still working on my pic taking ability.

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Drawing:

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Thanks for looking,
John Landi
 
i love the whole set up john...:thumbup: that knife looks great... not oo big not too small....
 
I saw this on the for sales forum and think that the knife looks great and very functional but personally I would prefer it with handle slabs, wood, micarta, G10 it matters not , as long as there is something to hold onto it will be good !!!!
 
I'm also in the "I prefer handle slabs" camp. Additionally, while I own several Busses, I tend to lean toward the "less ricasso/choil is more knife" camp as well. I like the knife well enough, but for me, there is 1 inch of wasted space between the handle and the blade.
 
I really like the design and concept of it. It looks good as is, but would really be perfect IMO with Micarta scales.
 
I like it. My reommendation would be for some notches where your thumb rides for a little extra stability.
 
hlee said:
I'm also in the "I prefer handle slabs" camp. Additionally, while I own several Busses, I tend to lean toward the "less ricasso/choil is more knife" camp as well. I like the knife well enough, but for me, there is 1 inch of wasted space between the handle and the blade.
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+1 No choil and handle slabs... that would be awesome! Don't take us wrong though, that knife looks great just as it is also.
Mikel
 
Hey Fellas, Thanks for the input. Looks like I need to try some slabs on it! Maybe toss in some thumb notches and maybe try one without a choil.

Thanks again for your input, it is appreciated!

John
 
That's a rugged looking setup Landi, great work. I agree that ditching the choil and adding some micarta would really turn it into another beast altogether. :thumbup:
 
I like it just as it is. Perhaps some file work on the spine for the thumb to grip would be nice but without it it is a fine looking knife.
I wouldn't hesitate to carry that in the field.
 
As others have stated, I like the basic knife. Personal tastes will dictate the particulars like handle slabs, choil, and so forth.

My own preferences are for synthetic handle slabs - micarta or G-10 - which extend the full length of the finger guard area. I'd also take out the choil, preferring more blade edge. Finally, I'd make the tip a bit pointier, either by slightly reducing the belly or adding a false edge to the last 1.5" of the knife.

Your grinds look good, I like the steel as well :thumbup: For knives under 7" long, 3/16" is plenty thick for me. IMO, a shorter knife won't be an optimal chopper, so the blade thickness can reflect great slicing abilities. 3/16" is a good compromise for thickness in knives under 7", particularly those with a full flat grind.
 
I personally like it as is. There are enough knives out there with slabs i like the wrap to me it sets it apart from what is out there a little. I was close to grabbing that one also. I like the rewrap you did on it better also. If you make another it might hurt my pocket book a little.
 
+1 for the slabs and less choil. Don't get me wrong I like the knife but I prefer handle slabs for prolonged use and the closer the blade is to the handle the easier it is to use.
 
Everyone has already said it, but I agree with the "less choil and handle slabs" opinions. Adding handles will obviously raise the price by quite a bit and most of us here would be willing to pay it.
But, for someone looking for a "bare bones" quality knife, I can't see anyone going wrong with this purchase. I love it.
 
If I may...I think the drop point is a little low personally. For 'bushcrafty' stuff I like when the point is a little higher in relation to the centerline of the handle. It makes it easier to use the point as an auger or drill. To this end, I'd also reduce the curve of the edge at the tip: it seems a little abrupt.

Because it is a significant size, I would also go with slabs. It seems a little blade-heavy but that might just be the photo - slabs could balance that out. Making the handle a little fatter would also generate more torque for twisting (again, drillling) - my old LMF is awesome for this.

I really like how you've kept the strength at the tip in spite of the scandi grind (per your sketch) which does explain the way you did the drop point.

I don't mean to slam it (all in all, I like it even though it's more tactical than my tastes normally run to) but I know I'd appreciate constructive criticism more than kudos personally. Take all that for what it's worth though, I only have a few knives 'under my belt', so to speak.
 
Wow, thanks again for the feedback. Choil-less, Micarta with thumb work seems to be a theme.
 
Hey Deadeye,

I had a lot of requests for a deeper bellied knife, which is where this and many of my "new" knives came from. Thanks for the suggestions though, I will keep them in mind.

Also, per the drawing - it would have been a high Sabre grind ending in a convex edge. A scandi would end in a 0 edge, which was not my intention here.

Thanks,
John

DeadeyeLefty said:
If I may...I think the drop point is a little low personally. For 'bushcrafty' stuff I like when the point is a little higher in relation to the centerline of the handle. It makes it easier to use the point as an auger or drill. To this end, I'd also reduce the curve of the edge at the tip: it seems a little abrupt.

Because it is a significant size, I would also go with slabs. It seems a little blade-heavy but that might just be the photo - slabs could balance that out. Making the handle a little fatter would also generate more torque for twisting (again, drillling) - my old LMF is awesome for this.

I really like how you've kept the strength at the tip in spite of the scandi grind (per your sketch) which does explain the way you did the drop point.

I don't mean to slam it (all in all, I like it even though it's more tactical than my tastes normally run to) but I know I'd appreciate constructive criticism more than kudos personally. Take all that for what it's worth though, I only have a few knives 'under my belt', so to speak.
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