Opinions on this Broad Axe

For anybody who has never seen a Gransfors Bruk ancient collection 1800 broad axe, there are some great pictures of one that was up for sale a few years ago on the for sale forum on this site. Sorry, I have no idea how to show it over here. I am very challenged with computer stuff, AND, I have no interest in learning !
 
Old Axeman said:
For anybody who has never seen a Gransfors Bruk ancient collection 1800 broad axe, there are some great pictures of one that was up for sale a few years ago on the for sale forum on this site. Sorry, I have no idea how to show it over here. I am very challenged with computer stuff, AND, I have no interest in learning
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I think this might be it.
Thread 'Gransfors Bruks "Ancient Collection" 1800 Broad Axe' https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/gransfors-bruks-ancient-collection-1800-broad-axe.1738377/
 
Old Axeman said:
Swede, Thanks for the photo's. So it is set up correctly for a right handed hewer and has an early handmade (looks like) haft. Set up the way it is now it would not efficiently turn out quality broad axe hewn logs or square timbers. The haft is too long for good control. It might hack out some ties if you have a need. But what you might consider is to save the old haft, restore the head, make a new hickory dog leg or S bend 22'-26" haft and hew some fine looking logs or timbers from the ground.
I hope you let us follow your progress.
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Thanks O Old Axeman I'll save that old haft. To me, that's one benefit of buying this axe, as I get a nice head with plenty of life left as you and FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades have pointed out, and I get an old haft to possibly use and learn from. I'm told this seller sources their items from Indiana, so not likely local.
I'm thinking how I might make a suitable S bend or dog leg handle 22-26", so I watched the video again of you hewing at the Garnet mine. I was able to pause it and get a look at the handle on your grandfather's axe to try to get the bends right. I also saw in the "An Ax to Grind" manual page 18 pictures of the bends. If understand right, the bends should offset enough to get your knuckles out of the way, but then bend back to enough of a degree to make the handle and hands stay parallel with the direction of hewing and surface with each downward movement of the head, so a shallow S. I'll intend to post about progress. Thanks again.
 
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Swede- when you first start hewing with a single bevel American pattern broad axe it might feel like you need the S-bend to stay on line with the chalk line. But in my experience this is not usually true for most people who already have experience using a axe. It only takes a couple of swings to adjust to the dog leg haft. So it could be a toss up for you. The dog leg is easier to make. With either bend, keep the bend right under the bottom of the head so you can get one hand right under the eye when hewing.
 
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It does not look to have been abused. I am sure there is still some of it's hard edge left, but even if there were not it would not be a problem unless it was going to be used to hew the beams for an entire building. In case you do not know, the cutting edge of these is supposed to be curved in two planes. The cutting edge itself is supposed to have a nice curve to it, then it is supposed to also be slightly curled up away from it's flat side so the ends of the cutting edge are up a bit, maybe just about the width of the cutting edge from the center to one of the ends. With a more worn example some of those curves may be lesser than when it was new, but again for the person just looking to have fun playing with knocking out a few beams from a log, any old axe in this shape will be good enough. Usually the handles are shorter than would be used with a regular every-day axe used for felling, limbing or splitting etc. with a bend in them away from the flat side. I think in colonial times a hewing broad axe was a luxury, as the real pioneer was lucky to have one standard axe which they would have to do everything with from felling to hewing to get their log cabin up before winter came around.
 
Well, I've been working on this axe head to identify the maker. I've used scotch brite green and a coarser brown pad from Harbor Freight, brass brushes, and metal polish with a tooth brush, and the results are hard to figure out, although CAST STEEL is kind of obvious.I tried the white flour method and a pencil over paper with not much improvement, except one pencil paper rub looked like it said CAST STEEL ALLOY. I tried checking all the names on YesterYears Tools, but nothing stands out.
I thought maybe someone might just recognize something about this, so here is a picture. Thanks SwedeFP
https://imgur.com/a/uvILyko
 
Up top there's a U an I, and what appears to be a D. But beyond that the top layer isn't decipherable--the earlier letters are too damaged by pitting. The bottom probably just says "CAST STEEL" rather than having "ALLOY" on it. I've never seen that term used historically on a tool marking in conjunction with the "CAST STEEL" marking.
 
FortyTwoBlades FortyTwoBlades that's an advance, because I didn't see those besides the I, but now see those. I hesitated posting this, as I didn't want to annoy anyone with something like an axe makers mark Rorschach test. I definitely think the top line first letter is most like a K just above the A in CAST. I guess it is a good sign that it was even marked and there is a * star which I've read could be for export market. If the export market was to Australia, I've wondered if the steel would be better, as they have some trees with tough wood.
 
Cast Steel was already the highest grade of steel available at the time, which is why it was advertised on the heads (or other tools made with it)
 
I think this has possibly been resolved to some extent. I believe the maker was American Axe & Tool Co.under the E.F. Hurd mark.This man held a patent for an axe making machine and the company dates from 1859 to 1913.

US Patent: 57,142 - Improvement in machines for making axes

US patent 57,142 Improvement in machines for making axes was issued to Edwin F. Hurd of Johnsonville, NY. It was granted on 08/14/1866. The EAIA "Directory of American Toolmakers" lists E. F. Hurd as manufacturing axes, hatchets, and edge tools at least as far back as 1859. The Hurd Ax
www.datamp.org
The Google Patents link give more info.
I'm liking this axe more and more.
 
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