Opinions on this Grinder

[arrowhead]

Unky, I don't have anything to add to the grinder discussion but have you used a tennis elbow brace? It will do wonders for that achy elbow. I know from experience. By all means get a grinder but get a brace too.

 

[Wloch248]

Multi platen
$250 grinder in a box
$80.85 shipping for kit
$53 Drive wheel
$58 Idler/tensioner wheel
$98 8" contact wheel
$45.50 shipping estimate from www.usaknifemaker.com
$585.35 - total



Jamie

Jamie, I am assuming you are going for the low cost way to use the multi platen without the 2" poly wheel and just the 8"? if not then I think it would cost an additional $46 for the 2" wheel from usaknifemaker.com

BTW I am going to be placing my order for my GIAB in the next few days so I am a little biased towards it too :thumbup:

 

[Justin King]

All of the costs breakdowns I have seen for the EERF (Grinder In a Box) also omit the tooling arm, which is not very expensive if you use tubing instead of solid square stock, but the grinder will not work without it so it deserves a mention.
I saved a few $ on mine by using 5/16" eye bolts for the locking knobs on the tooling/work rest arms, they cost .67 cents each vs. a few bucks apiece for real knobs or thumbwheels.
It is usually not too hard to scrounge up a used motor and save yourself a few $ there too, it dosen't have to be shiny and new just because the grinder is A machine motor is usually pretty easy to swap out when you have the opportunity to upgrade.

 

[KnifeMaker.ca]

George

Consider the Coote as a great value in your price range. Long time, proven design. Great product support from Norm. Can ship postal without motor. (No UPS Rape.) A great Deal with the dollar at par.

I'm not a big fan of 2 wheel grinders, but the Coote is very good value right now.

Rob!

 

[Wloch248]

All of the costs breakdowns I have seen for the EERF (Grinder In a Box) also omit the tooling arm, which is not very expensive if you use tubing instead of solid square stock, but the grinder will not work without it so it deserves a mention.
I saved a few $ on mine by using 5/16" eye bolts for the locking knobs on the tooling/work rest arms, they cost .67 cents each vs. a few bucks apiece for real knobs or thumbwheels.
It is usually not too hard to scrounge up a used motor and save yourself a few $ there too, it dosen't have to be shiny and new just because the grinder is A machine motor is usually pretty easy to swap out when you have the opportunity to upgrade.

Thanks for mentioning it. I forgot to add that cost into my build cost too. I was thinking I would get about a 3 ft section and cut if needed. I got a local price of less than $20 but it is a legit cost.

 

[polarbearforge]

Jamie, I am assuming you are going for the low cost way to use the multi platen without the 2" poly wheel and just the 8"? if not then I think it would cost an additional $46 for the 2" wheel from usaknifemaker.com

BTW I am going to be placing my order for my GIAB in the next few days so I am a little biased towards it too :thumbup:

Yep, you're right. I forgot a wheel. I've added it now.

Jamie

 

[unky_gumbi]

Unky, I don't have anything to add to the grinder discussion but have you used a tennis elbow brace? It will do wonders for that achy elbow. I know from experience. By all means get a grinder but get a brace too.

Yes I use a pair of the aircast versions now and have used just about every thing on the market in the way of arm braces. the air cast ones are working the best of all of the s far, not to mention its the most comfortable of all the ones I have tried.

 

[unky_gumbi]

George

Consider the Coote as a great value in your price range. Long time, proven design. Great product support from Norm. Can ship postal without motor. (No UPS Rape.) A great Deal with the dollar at par.

I'm not a big fan of 2 wheel grinders, but the Coote is very good value right now.

Rob!

Yes I did Rob, but like you I am not a big fan of the 2 wheel grinders either. I figure that if I am going to go the make due for now route with the Craftsman I might as well go all the way when I put out the real money and get the one that caught my eye first in the way of DIY grinders.

George

Btw have a good trip:thumbup:

 

[unky_gumbi]

All of the costs breakdowns I have seen for the EERF (Grinder In a Box) also omit the tooling arm, which is not very expensive if you use tubing instead of solid square stock, but the grinder will not work without it so it deserves a mention.
I saved a few $ on mine by using 5/16" eye bolts for the locking knobs on the tooling/work rest arms, they cost .67 cents each vs. a few bucks apiece for real knobs or thumbwheels.
It is usually not too hard to scrounge up a used motor and save yourself a few $ there too, it dosen't have to be shiny and new just because the grinder is A machine motor is usually pretty easy to swap out when you have the opportunity to upgrade.

I am lucky enough to have a pair of old motors kicking around, not sure if they work or not, still have to wire them up and test them. If they don't work I have a friend that has a old 2hp reversible motor that he said I could have in exchange for building his son up a new set of wheels for his bike, and I can lace up tension and true a set of wheels in under 2 hours. I also noticed that there was no tooling arm, but that is something I can pick up here for a song, and I cant sing