Opinions wanted: Axe build

FriskyDingo

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I'm thinking of building an axe, I was just curious about thoughts as to this silhouette. Material will be S7 with an integral "tang" for the haft, and G10 or Micarta scales and titanium bolts.

SmallAxe2-Assembly-1.jpg


I'm interested in honest opinions, but be constructive please. Only in the first design stage. Not sure if I want to go with a removable modular headstock of go for economy and just mill an integral piece.
 
I think it looks really cool, but functionality wise, it would probably be better to remove those two prongs poking out of the back of the handle to allow for choking up on the handle. The odd shaped handle scales could be a bit uncomfortable too.

Cool design though, I love the shape of the head.
 
It technically is a longer handle, but this way really helped the balance of the thing, added to the weight so a little more kinetic energy and shifted the center of mass forward so you should have a little more controllable piece. The balance is about 2/3's up the spine towards the axe head and dead center, I had solidworks calculate it for me.
 
It looks cool, but the handle looks very uncomfortable, and to me the head looks a bit oversized, like a hatchet. but still, pretty darn cool.
 
I'd round the points on the back of the handle and maybe the one on the inner curve of the head. The last one just for looks. The flat across the top looks out of place, I'd do a curve of some sort across the top.
 
I'd make the point on the beard less acute or it might take care of itself, ie break off.

Also, what the others said: the scales look like they will make chopping a nightmare for the user.


Ookami
 
looks like a futuristic battle axe. I would want more weight in the poll area to balance it out better if it is meant to cut wood anyways like an american felling axe.
 
I think removing the scalloping from the back of the handle may work better, although I imagine you intended the grip to be either above or below them. It reminds me of the American Kami Bearded Camp Axe (about half way down the page).
http://www.americankami.com/axe.html
 
What is the purpose?
Is this a user axe, or a hang on the wall and look cool, axe.

If it's a user, it's a horrible design from a usability perspective.
The scales are going to chew up your hands, the protruding tang is going to chew up your hands, and the center of mass will be shifted from the head down the handle a bit.

Is it a wood axe or a battle axe?

For a wood axe, other are right in that that sharp beard will probably break off in heavy use. If it's for cutting meat (battle axe) the beard won't be a problem, and will aid in hooking bones, limbs, weapons, etc.

Not sure the spike will be all that great. Maybe try something like an upside down American tanto. Think of a tanto shaped blade on the poll, with the spine toward the handle, and the angle and sharp end pointed up. By all means, go ahead and radius into the spike from below, although I'd make it a tighter radius to better enable choking up.

Aesthetically, I like the straight top, but I'd make the furthest point forward of the edge be the point where the top of the bit comes into the edge -- like a Viking great axe.

For the haft on a user, make it a continuous straight haft or curved, but get rid of the points, especially where the palms of the hands are going to be.

For the sake of balance, if you want to have metal the whole way down, at least have the tang flush with the micarta, better would be to use a hidden tang, bolt the micarta to it. This will mean less metal, shifting the center of mass more towards the head.

If this is more of a hang on the wall and look cool thing, then add all the points and scallops you want.
 
FriskyDingo: I hope you don't mind, I altered your picture to a more "practical" look than "tactical", so to speak. Here are my critiques. If I were making one, this is pretty much what I would to with it.

The blade is a bit too broad and "sweeping" for the handle size, and as said before it seems too thin and pointy to be durable around the point of the beard. IMO, and the scales/handle shaped like that would chew up your hands beyond belief. The pointy end at the handle could also cause some problems when chopping if you arent too careful. This is all just my opinion, I fully agree with the curved handle, if you get it balanced right, it looks wacky as all get out, but the head will hit EXACTLY where you want.

SmallAxe2-Assembly-1.jpg


Let me know what you think.
Hope I could help a little, it'll still be pretty neat finished up how you have it drawn.

Brandon
 
I would personally take out the 3 points on the axe, the 2 on the handle and the one on that opposite side of the blade. Make it look more practical less video game/mall ninja.
 
Looks like an American Kami design.

DSC00339.JPG


I don't care for either. They don't seem functional.

(although the American Kami looks sick...)
 
Very intriguing design, a lot of the practicality would depend on the purpose. It it for camping or combat?

The shape is very intimidating, one of the most important effects of cold steel, be it bayonet, broad head or battle axe, as a weapon system. In short this thing would scare the crap out of an opponent in hand to hand combat: It's flat out mean looking.

For practical everyday use as a tool, I appreciate the way you have provided a generous beard. For tasks choked up on the handle, like carving and whatnot, this lets you get your hand right behind the edge. I would suggest 3 things:

1. Move the scallops on the handle to the inside of the curve, and tone them down a little to serve as finger grooves. This will help you to know without looking where the axe is in you hand ( in, above, or below the grooves).

2. Mount solid scales right to the top of the helve.

3. Ease the wicked point you have on the bottom of the edge to make it less prone to snap off under stress.

BTW if you want to see an old school example of a similar tool, look for a "turner's axe" in an image search. It's basically a small broadaxe head mounted on a short inwardly curved helve, a bit like this. English bodgers (chair makers) used to use them to prepare turning stock before mounting it on a spring pole lathe.

Sociable!
 
I rather like the OP's design, but I don't know how good it would be to use; It kind of looks like a "fantasy" battle axe. I would extend the spike out some, and get rid of the point coming out the back of the beard. Also, I would probably cord wrap the handle as opposed to putting scales on it.

as for longbokid's design; I just don't like it.


but again, what is the intended purpose of the OP's design? battle axe, or bush?
 
Are you trying to shape the handle something like this:
DMMRebelAdzeS07B.jpg
dmm_anarchist_hammer_axe_09.jpg


I know a couple of friends with axes like these and they do focus the energy of the swing into the point making it penetrate the ice with a lot less effort. To that end I would either remove one of the spikes on the handle or space them further apart to allow for a hand hold between them.

Looking at the handle slabs maybe you could have 3 slabs a side. Each attached with 2 torx screws allowing the user to remove them if damaged or if they wanted to strip it down for a para-cord wrap. You might also be able to make the three of them identical that way allowing for standardization in manufacture and also allowing the user to swap them about if one becomes damaged. I would make the contours smaller more like this type of contouring:
ShadowFG001.jpg


Lastly I'd reduce the pointiness of the beard. Just enough to make it more durable to impacts.

Keep at it mate I'll be keen to see where this goes.
 
Looks like an American Kami design.

I don't care for either. They don't seem functional.

(although the American Kami looks sick...)

Thanks, bud. Glad you dig the axe.

I assure you sir, everything I build is made to be used. If you can't use your blade to cut stuff, there's no point.

OP: Looks cool, but I'd make the beard on your original rendering less pointy. That tip will be prone to snapping off from the shock of chopping. I'd also reduce the curvature of the handles. And those spikey humps on the spine of the handle need to be less abrupt and rounded over.
 
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