Opinions wanted - Handle composition

[Brock Cutlery]

Mark I've been telling you for a year now that the pre-made wa handle is the way to go
simple and effective, stop fighting it...

just kidding

:barf:

 

[RedFury]

Biker, could you elaborate a bit more on the "rule of thirds" ?? I believe there are simple design rules floating around but not so obvious to those of us who are more craftsman than artist.

You should be fine. 3.5" is very close to 2/3rds of 5.25". This gives you 2/3rds manzanita and 1/3 ebony. In art school we were taught the rule of thirds in composition. You would certainly be following that rule. Goolge it for more info.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

Biker, could you elaborate a bit more on the "rule of thirds" ?? I believe there are simple design rules floating around but not so obvious to those of us who are more craftsman than artist.

I'd like to hear more too. I was thinking about this rule, but trying to factor in how the blade figures in the equation. I can see taking the handle as a unit, but you must also factor in the blade at some point. The handle might be 1/2 to 1/3 of the blade depending on the type of knife.

 

[A.McPherson]

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rule_of_thirds


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NC Biker]

I'd like to hear more too. I was thinking about this rule, but trying to factor in how the blade figures in the equation. I can see taking the handle as a unit, but you must also factor in the blade at some point. The handle might be 1/2 to 1/3 of the blade depending on the type of knife.

Another principle of design is "form follows function" whereas the shape of an object should be primarily based on its intended function or purpose. While ascetically it might be more pleasing for the handle to be 1/3 in length of the whole of the knife, in most cases you would be sacrificing function to accomplish this. On a knife with a 6" blade, a 3" handle would not be very comfortable.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

Another principle of design is "form follows function" whereas the shape of an object should be primarily based on its intended function or purpose. While ascetically it might be more pleasing for the handle to be 1/3 in length of the whole of the knife, in most cases you would be sacrificing function to accomplish this. On a knife with a 6" blade, a 3" handle would not be very comfortable.

Yeah, I get it. I wasn't going to start shorting my handles. Just wondering how you might break up the handle to accomplish good balance. I feel like I have a pretty good eye for balance without any formal training. Just musing really. I am always interested in the rules of art, ...and how to break them.

 

[NC Biker]

Yeah, I get it. I wasn't going to start shorting my handles. Just wondering how you might break up the handle to accomplish good balance. I feel like I have a pretty good eye for balance without any formal training. Just musing really. I am always interested in the rules of art, ...and how to break them.

Breaking the rules is half the fun and most of the genius.

I can't figure out how that tail piece works, but it looks interesting.

Below is a sketch of Hengelo's method for doing a weldless threaded tang. I cut the slot using a jewler's saw. Time consuming, but does the job.

 

[Rick Marchand]

... and like Loveless said, "A touch of the right shade of lipstick can improve a woman's looks".

That is a looker. She even has the Cindy Crawford beauty mark "mole" accent toward the end of the handle.

 

[NC Biker]

That is a looker. She even has the Cindy Crawford beauty mark "mole" accent toward the end of the handle.

Thanks Rick, I thought the little burl eye gave it a bit of character as well.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

OK, so since there is some interest and good comments, I wanted to post may rough handle. This isn't fully shaped, and is at 120 grit on the belt grinder so not fine yet.
I went with ebony/(Ben's) manzanita and silver spacers/ then red oak. I was figuring the manzanita would credit to the ebony bolster, but it almost seems to add more to the oak as far as balance based on color. Maybe it applies a bit to both? Live and learn.

For shaping, I don't have a solid plan, which is usually a huge mistake when you hit the sanding belt. What I am envisioning is a typical Japanese style front end, rounded (not octo), and a somewhat western handle butt.
If anyone refers to this as a mullet I will have to track you down.

Im almost thinking about thinning it a bit from a top view where it widens in the rear vertically, if that makes any sense. The bolster will be shaped quite a bit differently before finish for grip comfort and I am not worried about that part.
If you have design thoughts I'd love to hear them before I take this back to the belt to finish.

 

[Brock Cutlery]

This is what I came up with. I need to plan out that western handle idea I have.
You can see a dimple on the blade. This is actually the plunge, all that's left anyways. I wanted to ensure the tang stayed uniform, so i had a minor plunge on each side that I almost made disappear.
I really like the manzanita spacer. It pops pretty well and this isn't buffed, just 1200 and rubbed with wax/oil. Thanks Ben!

 

[Hengelo_77]

I filed a square hole in the end of the tang that holds a nut in to wich the screw goes