Optimum edge angle for O1 steel?

B

badger_69

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Jun 8, 2006
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I am planning my first knife and would like to know your views on the optimum edge angle for a bushcraft type knife in O1 steel. I an thinking of between 15 and 20 degrees per side but that simply comes from books i have read about general knife sharpening. Am i in the right region with this angle range? Also what hardness do you think would be best for this steel and anticipated usage?
 
If this will be used as a heavy duty chopping or other punishing work, you may want to consider using 5160. 01 is not the best for impact resistance.
 
Yes, O1 would probably work fine, but for an optimized chopper L6 or 5160 would be better.
 
For bushcraft? Is it going to have a scandi grind? Is it going to be used like an axe, or like a < 4" bushcraft/hunting/utility knife? It seems the first two responders think bushcraft = big chopper. Bushcraft means the complete opposite to me, so considering your talking more along the lines of a Mora style knife:

Personally I like an edge of 15 degrees or less. I lean more towards a 10 to 12 degree angle per side. I like thin metal and a thin edge, it's great for working with wood and most general knife chores.

If you are going to be chopping with it, etc. then a more obtuse angle would hold up better.

15 - 20 degree edges are what most american knife manufactures use, but is way to thick in my opinion.

Also, note that my response is not in reference to 0-1 in particular, but just my edge preferences in general.
 
You are right, it will be a 3 1/2 to 4 inch bladed utility type knife. I am thinking of either a scandi grind or sabre grind, i havent noticed much difference between the two myself and a sabre is quicker to sharpen for me. Thanks for the input so far, i am leaning towards the idea of about 12 degrees per side i think.
 
A pitch of 12 degrees per side for a knife of that length is about rite, in my opinion. If you are flat grinding and go with no secondary edge, you will be able to produce a very keen edge. O1 will do just fine for a knife of this size and usage. The other steels suggested would work well also.

Have fun and post us a foto when you have it completed, Fred
 
Be aware they do not suggest tempering O1 between 450 and 600 deg because of a brittleness spike in that range. Typical hardness at 450 is 61 HRC. O1 is supposed to be very good for a high carbon thin sharp precision blade. O1 may be a poor choice for something needing a softer hardness for toughness.
 
sunshadow said:
what is a "scandi" grind?
Click to expand...

Page,

A "scandi" or Scandinavian grind follows the contour of the blade like this.

75bc_1.JPG
 
TekSec said:
Page,

A "scandi" or Scandinavian grind follows the contour of the blade like this.

75bc_1.JPG
Click to expand...

Hmmph... I have been at this virtually my entire life and and I never knew about this term and definition. Thanks for the info, I like it when I learn a thing or two myself by browsing here:thumbup:
 
a scandi grind also typically does not have a secondary bevel at the edge, altho not necessarily.
 
spyken said:
a scandi grind also typically does not have a secondary bevel at the edge, altho not necessarily.
Click to expand...

oh i thought that that was the whole aspect of the scandi grind- so that any doofus can sharpen it in the field by putting the bevel flat against the stone.

O1 is a nice steel and suits my personality- I dont leave water, corrosives ect. on my blade (i don't need stainless), its easy to sharpen. Its pretty tough, and it holds a nice edge is easy to HT (hooray! :D)

and if you don't think it is well suited to a chopper...
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=487721
 
A scandi grind is a short flat grind. Easily done on a flat platen. This is one I did on a large version of my PSK knife. This spearpoint/scandi grind blade is favored by the outdoorsman of the UK. Very good for carving.
Scott
 
If you decided to go for a Scandi grind, you are looking at about 10 degrees per side, perhaps less. Typically the bevel runs something like 3/8" to 1/2" up the blade, and on 1/8 to 5/32 stock that works out around 10deg per side. It is a thin edge and cuts easily. The fact that it is flat means that it acts like the sole of a plane and self guides for long shavings. You don't have to tip it up much to get it to bite.

sbt4.jpg

*Image lifted from another thread here on BF. Hope no one minds:o

If your version of bushcraft has a lot of wood carving in it, you should be thinking of making your edge as thin as this, whether you are using a Scandi, a convex, or a flat/secondary combination.

Just from reading around 58Rc seems to be the favored hardness for O-1 in bushcraft knifes. Tempering temperature depends on how hard you got it on the quench. Without proper soak time at temperature prior to quench, it seems that 350-400degF is as high as you need to go. If you get the steel properly hard, tempering will have to be higher...Kevin has written about it at length :D

2c worth.

Chris
 
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