Here's what I did...
Take the knife apart (my Tremor uses hex screws, not Torx) keeping note of the parts. The knife should be open first. Sometimes the nuts that the handle screws go into come out. Keep an eye on them. Starting on the blade: Degrease and dry the blade. I used the finest grit steel wool I could find to rub it, then polish (Flitz, simichrome, etc.) the blade. If you want it more polished (mirror polished) you can use 2000-grit sandpaper before the steel wool. Repeat the polish about four or five more times. Make sure you use clean cotton (T-shirt is fine).
While you've got the knife apart, polish the liners where the pivot is. Wipe all of the factory grease off the torsion bar and the recess in the handle where it sits. Use a Q-tip and put a very, very light swab of petroleum jelly in the recess.
When you reassemble: Put a drop of lube (I use Tuff Glide with a few drops of Rem Oil in it) on the liner, then put the black bushing on. A drop of lube on it, then the large bronze bushing (there are two bushings on each side of the blade, you might have to rub them to separate them). A drop of lube on that bushing, then the blade. Make sure the blade stop pin is in there. Drop of lube on the blade's pivot area, then add a small bushing. A drop of lube, then the other small bushing. Be sure the backspacer is in there right; there are small indexing holes for it. One last drop of lube, then the other liner. Lay the torsion bar's pointy end in the small hole in the blade, then let it rest on the liner. Angle it so it will fall into the recess of the handle scale (look, you'll see it) then put the handle scale on it without disturbing things. Drop the handle screws into their holes, making sure you can screw them in. Just don't tighten them yet. Close the blade until you feel resistance from the torsion bar (just to be sure you lined up the torsion bar right). Let the knife open back up. The handle screw nearest the bottom (lanyard hole) and the middle one can be tightened as much as needed. The handle screw closest to the pivot should be tightened to where the blade comes out fast enough for you; overtightening this one will squeeze the torsion bar between the liner and handle scale, slowing down deployment. Once you're happy with the blade speed, insert the pivot pin screw and tighten until the blade has no play. You're going to have to play with the tightness, going between a rock-solid lock-up and fast deployment. When you find that perfect spot, try to remember it. Remove the pivot pin screw, make sure it's clean and dry, and put a drop of blue LocTite on it. A very small drop of Elmer's glue will also work. Screw it back in to where it's perfect again.
Sorry if this was too long or a bit unnecessary. I'd post photos, but I'm in bed with the flu as I type this. The Flitz or simichrome polished up stonewashed blades quite well.
