OT: Gentleman's Skinner

Steve,
I can get ya a few of the longer rivet's...They are NOT hollow but they are bull strong...Ifya need some lemme know...My sister is already waiting on that knife to get here..ahh u have my addy right?

Form the pieces BEFORE you put them together?? hmm that wasnt the way I was gonna do it...hmm gonna have to rethink this a bit...

HOw they work?? grr I have no idea...I bet Dan is a bit busy right now to answer that question...Tell ya what...when I get mine, I will ask a bro that does kydex work and see what he says...Unless some our more learned members would like to chime in??


Then it comes to be
That the soothing light
At the end of your tunnel
was just a Freight Train
Coming your way...

No leaf Clover
 
Leatherface said:
Steve,
I can get ya a few of the longer rivet's...They are NOT hollow but they are bull strong...Ifya need some lemme know...My sister is already waiting on that knife to get here..ahh u have my addy right?

Form the pieces BEFORE you put them together?? hmm that wasnt the way I was gonna do it...hmm gonna have to rethink this a bit...

HOw they work?? grr I have no idea...I bet Dan is a bit busy right now to answer that question...Tell ya what...when I get mine, I will ask a bro that does kydex work and see what he says...Unless some our more learned members would like to chime in??

I use a heat gun for fold over sheaths. Heat, fold, fit, heat, etc.

For two piece sheaths I mold the outer half first over the knife which rests on a flat surface. Sometimes if you try to mold the outer half while it is on the kydex flat back half, the flat back half warps or bends because of heat or otherwise gets "unflat" and is a pain.

I figure since the molded half doesn't care what flat object it has under it when molded, it might as well be a workbence or cookie sheet on the floor. Then when the two pieces of kydex are joined together the back is perfectly flat as it should be.

LF, I'd like to buy some of those longer rivets from you. How do you roll them over if they aren't hollow? A PM would work here.
 
There seems to be kydex sheath interest.

Tomorrow night I'll re-enact making a kydex sheath and post a few pics.
 
My sister is already waiting on that knife to get here..ahh u have my addy right?


PS. Please send picture of your sister.
 
Steve Poll said:
My sister is already waiting on that knife to get here..ahh u have my addy right?


PS. Please send picture of your sister.

:D :D :D

Will shoot ya a PM once I get off of work today...How they set?? Ya hit them really hard with a hammer...hmmm lemme see if I can post a pic of the rivets I am talking about

Rivets are put at the stress points of the sheath...The edges are glued up first of course just like normal...Drill a hole and there ya go...Pocket holster..


edit....GRRRR I really dont like that pic, but it does get my point across...The ones in this are the smaller ones...I am pretty sure that the holster is made from 7-8oz leather...I didnt have the tool to set them so I just whacked them with a big hammer to set them...If the tool is used the look would be a bit better...There are larger ones that this (post is bigger)
 

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Steve,
how do you "set" the hollow rivets?? I cant figure that part out...There doesnt seem to be a male and female end
 
Leatherface said:
Steve,
how do you "set" the hollow rivets?? I cant figure that part out...There doesnt seem to be a male and female end

Hi LF:

The hollow rivets are set with a tool that is similar to a tool used to set grommets. Just sized correctly. It is like a pencil with a nipple on the end. Put the rivet through the (usually 1/4" dia) hole. Place the preformed rolled end down on a block of wood and put the rooling tool inside the hollow unformed end that sticks up and smack it with a mallet until it has rolled over and is tight.

You can buy a kydex rivet setting tool from most major knife supply houses or make your own by cutting a length of 1/4" uncoated brazing rod about 4" long. Put one end of the rod in a hand drill and chuck it tight. Turn on your grinder and the drill and shape the nipple on the end of the brass rod while the drill is turning the rod against the grinder. This makes a symmetrical nipple which is then rounded at the tip. The nipple only needs to be 1/16" long.

I bought my rivet setter and it workes real well.
 
You know I thought those rivets were set the same way as the material being riveted . By using a heat source to mold the ends .
 
Kevin the grey said:
You know I thought those rivets were set the same way as the material being riveted . By using a heat source to mold the ends .

Hi Kevin:

Absolutly no heating the rivets. They are brass.

Just pound them over. They roll real nice. On rare occasion one might crack. Just drill it out and put a new one in. At least one well known kit supplier sells a very expensive "press" with dies to do the job. I just use the poor mans method and hammer them over with a setting tool.

If a black coated brass rivet gets some color knocked off of it I have read about a liquid that will blacken the brass rivets again. I haven't needed it, though.
 
Man thats beautiful Steve. I'm not a big kydex fan either, but hey, that one is pretty cool. We're going to start using it at work some, so I may get to mess with it there soon.

The guy behind me has some apple trees he prunes every year. I cought him the other day and asked him to save it for me this year. Can't wait. I've never seen that tiger apple either. My handsaws all have apple handles. I love ebay.
 
aproy1101 said:
Man thats beautiful Steve. I'm not a big kydex fan either, but hey, that one is pretty cool. We're going to start using it at work some, so I may get to mess with it there soon.

The guy behind me has some apple trees he prunes every year. I cought him the other day and asked him to save it for me this year. Can't wait. I've never seen that tiger apple either. My handsaws all have apple handles. I love ebay.

Hi Andy:

That was the only tiger stripped apple I've seen and it was small.

I've a few more thoughts about kydex. Ever feel like making something knife related but not a whole knife or a fairly time consuming leather sheath??

A kydex sheath is kinda the answer for me. It takes a lot of thought and you have to fuss with it until it's just right. But, it's quicker than other knife stuff. One evening will turn out something very functional and gratifying. The cost is reasonable, too. If you goof, you can drill out the rivets and just fix it.

I made a real nice kydex sheath today for another hidden tang knife I recently finished. Sheath came out very well, but I'm going to drill out the rivets this week and make it even better. There won't even be any oops, marks when done.

Leather sheath are my favorite, but hydex has its place and it's own challenges.

Enjoy!
 
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