OT: Got a Bench Grider; I Want to Make Knives; I'm Clueless!

J

Josh Feltman

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Feb 12, 2001
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My wife and I picked up a bench grinder this weekend at a yard sale. It has a 6" wheel and a 3/4 hp motor. When I read Sarge's post about the poor boy puuko, and was totally inspired to try my hand at knifemaking. Unfortunately, I am totally clueless when it comes to making knives, or even using a bench grinder. If anybody can point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it. I'm looking for general grinding/safety advice at this point, so any links, photos, anecdotes, etc would be great.

Thanks,
--Josh
 
Wahooo!!!

Sarge has it all laid out...

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=247266

Just be safe and don't kill yourself trying to get it 100% perfect. Trust me when I say the next one will be better...:D

Re: grinder

Put a hard wheel on one side and a soft buffing wheel on the other.
Oh yeah, also, try to mount it up high on a stand rather than on a bench.

Dan
 
Thanks, Pen--that's the thread that got me wanting a grinder. My questions are this point are even more basic though, like where do I stand in relation to the grinder, and how do I bring the metal to be ground into contact with the grinding wheel without losing my fingers and such. I'm assuming that if the grinding wheel is spinning towards me, then I want to engage it on the front of the wheel somewhere so that the part of the file that will form the edge is pointing towards the ground and the part that will become the spine is facing up?
--Josh
 
Also, hate to say this, but don't bother with the ShopTalk forum if you're using a wheel grinder. They can only muster "belt" talk over there, IYKWIM... No offense - I love 'em - they just don't sympathyze with po'boy puukko types like us. Most of the advice ends up like this "Get a belt grinder and call us back"...:D

A couple of "other" things you might like to have on hand:

Cardboard wheel for sharpening/polishing
Rouge
Bucket of cold water - keep the temp down on the blade
Good safety goggles
Good bench vise


A tip: Don't bother with gloves - if the blade's too hot to hold, you shouldn't grinding it anyway. Keep it cool.
 
Assuming you're right handed, I'd put the hard wheel on the right hand side and grind on it. Much easier for moving back and forth along the blade.

A few more tips:

1 - Mark a centerline where you want the edge to be. Start with a 45 degree bevel that comes almost to the line on both sides. You can use the tool rest to do that one. Then, you'll have to freehand the rest (though Sarge may have a fancy jig for it). Either way, the bevel is a good way to start.

2 - Grind "into" the wheel whenever you are using the tool rest, away from it when you are freehanding.

3 - Cardinal Rule #1 - Never grind late at night or when you are tired...:eek:


I'll look around for some pics - I know they're out there, I just have to find 'em.
 
Pendentive--thanks! Can you elaborate a bit on point #2? If the wheel is spinning towards me from the top, then I want to hold metal to be ground so that the edge is pointing down towards the floor if I am holding it freehand, but if I am using the tool rest, I want to angle it so the edge being ground is pointed up towards the ceiling? I'm confused.
--Josh
 
from another forum member...

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I grind everything on an 8" bench grinder. Its a hell of a lot faster than my 4X36 belt sander, and with some practice I've turned out blades a lot nicer than with my belstander.
The trick is to get good wheels, and a good grinder with good workrests. Nothing fancy I've just got an 8" craftsmen profesional. Overheating isn't the big deal everyone makes of it, keep the bucket handy and keep the steel cool. When you get down to thin stock, you just have to have a light touch and keep the steel moving across the wheel. Its not as horrible as these guys make it out to be. Its not as nice as a 2X72, but I can't exactly afford on of those critters

The main things you'll want to have, are a good stone dresser, and 2 different grit wheels. Nothin super coarse because they wear down faster.
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Josh, eye protection is a must, and a good dust mask is highly recommended. That little shelf type bracket on your grinder at the bottom front of the wheel is called a "tool rest", and it should be adjustable. Make sure and adjust it so there's no more than a 1/8" gap between the rest and the wheel. This is very important Josh, too big a gap will let your work material get caught between the wheel and tool rest, with exciting results to say the least.:eek: Along the same lines, do not wear gloves, long sleeves, or any dangling jewelry, etc., that can get caught in the wheel.

Keep a bucket of water handy that's large enough to completely immerse your work material, so you don't have to juggle trying to cool it off. Use a fine tip permanent marker to lay out your rough design on your work stock. If the material is sufficiently soft enough to cut with a hacksaw, you can save considerable grinding time by sawing away excess material with your work clamped in a vise.

Work slowly and use only moderate pressure against the wheel. Bearing down too hard will significantly increase friction, causing your work to overheat rapidly and "burn" the metal. How do you know if it's too hot? Well, since you're working with bare fingers, they are your thermometers. If the work stock becomes uncomfortably warm, dip it in the bucket. You'll find that you're doing this quite often, and after a while you'll establish a rythym of grinding and dunking.

Not much else to mention except DO NOT grind non-ferrous metals (brass, aluminum, etc.) on a carborundum grinding wheel. It will quickly clog the wheel, and could even cause an imbalance problem that could cause the wheel to shatter from harmonic vibration.

Good luck and have fun Josh.:D

Sarge
 
A full face motorcycle helmet and a shirt of chain mail wouldn't hurt either. Or cut a piece of plywood with holes thru it for your arms to protect your body.

First thing, get a first aid kit. To include sanitary napkins to use as pressure bandages for large/deep wounds.

Second, install an extra phone with the ambulance company emergency number and other emergency numbers pre-programed or written in large letters over the phone.

Three, if you have in in the garage or otherwise outside the home, run a floor mounted alarm button to a horn in the house.

Four, have concise directions to your place written for the emergency operator, or for your wife and kids to follow.

Sorry, but it's a matter of fact that the grinding wheel WILL catch and throw something sooner or later. hopefully it's just go flying of the walls. But it could throw a blade into your head or gut. So be prepared.
 
Rusty's advice sounds a bit extreme at first, but you have just purchased one of the most dangerous tools a shop can have (the others being a forge and a power hammer). Psst...hope your wife isnt' reading this over your shoulder...:eek:

I can think of one knifemaker I've read about who was killed by a blade thrown from a buffer, several others who have been seriously injured at the grinder, and many others who came away with minor, but painful injuries. Most of these happen when you're tired or just plain lazy. Be extra careful and attentive and you'll do alright.

Sarge said:
If the material is sufficiently soft enough to cut with a hacksaw, you can save considerable grinding time by sawing away excess material with your work clamped in a vise.
Click to expand...
You can also use a drill and make holes all the way around the blade and then file them down.

Use the grinder to "rough out" the blade and then quickly move to files/paper to finish it up. Go to the buffer for the final finish.

Dan
 
Josh,
Grind with the edge toward the ceiling. It's counter-intuitive, but gives you a view of the area where you're removing metal. Whether grinding or buffing, hold the work below the centerline of the wheel for safety.
Always wear eye and lung protection. You'll be tempted to leave them off for "just a little bit more here" but DON'T DO IT!
Most of all, have fun with it.
 
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The worst thing you can do is to get impatient and try to rush it. Set aside a couple of hours to experiment and take a few breaks as well. Don't try it if you've got "obligations" that evening...nothing like rescheduling because you now have a hole in your hand from trying to work too fast...:D

Take it easy when you grind and keep the steel cool. It will be frustrating at first, but just tell yourself "Hey, I'm grinding and I've got all afternoon to do it".

Oh, and play some soothing tunes...:cool:
 
Awesome stuff. Thanks everybody! Pendentive--those pics are just what I was looking for. It's really hard to describe some things with words.
--Josh
 
"Sarge's post about the poor boy puuko, "

Would have named it the Po' Gal's Puukko, if'n I'd known it was going to wind up belonging to Missus Pendentive;) :D

Dan, things are getting kind of crazy around here right now, but if I get time, I'll send your missus a proper kitchen knife. It starts with a 4" Karesuando stainless blade, a brass hilt plate, an axis deer antler, and is topped off with an amethyst cabochon mounted in sterling silver set into the pommel end of the handle. Too durn pretty for me, most of my knives are as homely as I am.;)

Sarge
 
Sounds great, Greg!

...amethyst cabochon mounted in sterling silver set into the pommel end of the handle.
Click to expand...
:eek: :eek: :eek:



Had a chance to fiddle around with the bar I sent ya?
 
Had a chance to fiddle around with the bar I sent ya?
Click to expand...

Don't have the time I want to do that one proper Dan, got one foot out the door and the other one a'slippin'. Things are heating up, my khukuri's clean, sharp, and lightly oiled. Time to tie up loose ends.

Sarge
 
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