OT: Making gunstock blanks

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bismark77

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Jun 24, 2004
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I need some advice on shaping out and curing some gunstock blanks.

For background: I have inlet and finished gunstocks before, but I'm not an accomplished woodworker. I've also never operated a sawmill or similar equipment, although I've watched on occasion. My only experience cutting up wood is making firewood. So, you can assume that I'm a complete tyro.

The situation: My father in law had to cut down an old black walnut with which he had a strong sentimental attachment. I salvaged a good chunk of the tree, and I'd love to make a stock for him from it. The section I have is long enough for a rifle stock, but not much longer, and looks to have 9-12" of good heart wood. The wood is still green with the bark on, and I've painted the end grain with paraffin wax.

How do I go about getting a stock blank from the middle of this small log? I'm not sure how to attack it; so any advice you can offer will be appreciated!
 
How much time you got?

If you have time, I'd leave it as-is until spring time and then cut it into blanks. Then let those cure over the summer. By fall you will have a good piece. (curing over the winter is not as effective). Of course, if you are going to have it cure indoors, might be a moot point.

If you don't have much time, there are ways to "force-dry" the wood. You'll get mixed results, though, and you could end up overcuring it. Even if it doesn't crack, it might take on moisture later on and warp, etc.

There are 2 schools of thought regarding the bark. Some say leave it on to help retain moisture - until you can plank-cut it. Others say get the bark off now to release the moisture and let it properly (read: more slowly) air-dry. Can't say which camp I belong to.....both seem to have good reasoning.

If the wood is strong and the heart is not pithy...and if the bark is solid - I'd say leave it on. You won't be using the outside of the wood anyway....

Place it on 2 - 2x4s, up off the ground to dry while you're waiting.

I would avoid cutting into the heartwood. Take a section cut right outside of it. You'll still get splendid grain.
 
I have time on this project. I don't mind waiting for it to cure. I am able to devote some inside storage space for curing. Do you think my best bet is to let it cure and then cut it up in the spring, or to cut now and cure inside? I'm sure if it was prefered to cut the blanks green or seasoned...
 
if you have dedicated inside storage that is conditioned, then cut it into pieces and let it dry. Invest in a cheap moisture content meter. When you get down to 10-15% you'll be ready to start working it.
 
Is there any particular magic to get a good blank? Or should I just quarter saw it about 2-3" thick, and try to find a good clear piece of lumber?
 
when you say 9-12" of heartwood....is that diameter or radius?
 
Bismark,
I trained as a cabinet maker, years ago, & have worked the primary saw in a country sawmill as well.

My local gunsmiths cure stock wood for 6 years in a dry barn then 6 years in a shop loft before they will use it.

The outside sap wood is no use for stockmaking as it is less stable , soft & makes tempting worm food.

Heres a link on stockmaking.

stockmaking.

Generaly the toe of the stock comes from the curve of lower root swell of the tree if the stock is quarter sawn.

Flat sawn can have great swirl figure if your lucky.

how old & what diameter is the trunk?

Most stock blanks start at 3 inches+ so you can take down whichever places neccasry by hand to remove any defects you find on sawing.

maybe cut thin slices till you find one good side then work in slowly from other side on the bandsaw.

Good luck!

Spiral.
 
2nd vote for plain sawn (vs. quarter sawn). Quarter sawn is great for planks - less warpage. But for a stock, you want some figure.
 
That link has other links near bottom of page to other stock pages.

usefull stuff!

fine pix to!

hiatt01_102499.jpg


&

hiatt02_102499.jpg


Spiral
 
Now That is some beautiful Wood!!!! Yep, plain sawn is best for figure and gets my vote too.
 
that piece looks like it was cut on an angle across the heartwood. Very nice!

Bet that cost some $$$...!


You could do that with yours too....but you only get one shot if the log's not large enough.
 
Daniel Koster said:
when you say 9-12" of heartwood....is that diameter or radius?
Click to expand...

~9-12" diameter (it is not, of course, round, and is thicker at one end of the log than the other).
 
The log that I have is ~26" diameter, and ~40" long (I didn't measure that-I just estimated from the office), It is from the base of one of the large limbs. It's not the piece I would have picked, but it was the only chunk long enough to work with when I got there. It may not be enough to get a good blank.

I think I will try to cut it green. If I can't borrow some time on a sawmill, I'll have to use a chainsaw--but that will create a lot of waste and imprecision. I'm not sure if I can get two good blanks from either side of the heart, and then attempt a cut through the middle of the heartwood, or not...but that's what my plan of attack is.

I'm assuming that I should avoid the very heart of the log? Should I ignore the entire "4x4" in the center? Or is it OK to incorporate the center rings?

After I get my lumber out, should I just dip the end grain in wax, and hang it up somewhere dry? After an initial period of air drying would it be advantageous to have the blank(s) kiln dried? Or should I just let them season on their own?

I'm sorry for the flood of questions. If you guys didn't have all the answers you wouldn't get bombarded like this! Now you see the folly of acquiring all that wisdom :)

I really hope to make a stock from this chunk of walnut because I know my father-in-law would love it. But if this turns out to be an unsuitable piece of wood I will have to hunt down some other candidates. Now that I've been bitten by this stockmaking bug, there's no going back.
 
yes, indeed....the bug is firmly attached.....:D


OK - here are some random thoughts/ideas:


The best cut would have been through the base of the limb where it went into the main trunk of the tree - outstanding grain potential there. But what's done is done.

Sounds like your log is large enough to make 2 or 3 blanks from. What quality is the heartwood? Give it a thumbnail test to see if it is harder or softer than the rest.

If it's hard enough, I wouldn't be afraid to use it. Typically, the heartwood is avoided because it's either too soft, too wet, different color, or tighter grain. All those factors make it hard to work with as a plank cut. But you're not cutting planks. So toss those out the window....!

If you let it air dry one seaon (a full winter, or a full summer) and then kiln dry it - you'll be ok. A professional has a reputation to uphold and can't afford the occasional mishap....hence the longer drying times (sometimes there are pockets of moisture deep inside the wood that don't release for years). I wouldn't worry about it.

Don't hang the wood. It won't dry as fast, and it will be more likely to warp. Rest it on 2 - 2x4s somewhere where there is a lot of air movement. If it is hanging, it will not dry evenly. Think of it this way = Air movement past a piece of wood will speed evaporation on the surface, which is a heat process (as liquid changes to gas, heat and moisture are released). So while your (hanging) wood is drying out, you will be heating/soaking the top of it and cooling/drying the bottom. Make sense? As water leaves the surface and becomes vapor, osmosis brings the water deep inside the wood to the surface and so on, etc., until the piece is dry.

You can rotate the piece now and then if you really want to, but as long as there is air movement below it, you'll be ok with it sitting on 2x4s on the floor.
 
just remembered something....


Have access to large clamps? (pipe style)

If so, make a walnut sandwich with 2 - 2x4s. Clamp them over the area you want to cut. Heck, I would just nail them to the log. Then use that as a guide for your chainsaw. It's an old field trick for getting good cuts.
 
The bad news is wood with the radical pressusers caused by growing at an angle {evidenced by the off centre pith} will be full of reaction wood, compresed & in tension at the same time.} if you chainsaw the pith throgh 2 halve the log, {small tight rings to one side, large rings in other half} eventualy you may save some of it, but chances are it will warp & twist to much to be any use. The qualitis of the wood are ulso unpredictable.

Most sawmills would actualy refuse to saw it as potentialy dangeruos as it could warp while bieng sawn, {which on a big circular mill can kill you, & can also snap an expesive bandsaw blade.}

The 4X4 with the pith in on any log is garbage for any purpose.

The nice figured wood in the illustrated stocks comes from the area just above the root & it is important to saw stocks stright so that the pistol grip area is strong.

Most limb wood is used for bowls & small carvings for which it is briliant, it is very unlikly you will succesfuly get a stable sound stock from it.

only freehand chainsaw it , as if it warps it could be dangerous if you have put a fence on it.{even a wooden one.}

Spiral
 
Bismark,

Heres a book that might realy help you, it might be cheaper on Amazon or somewhere.

Professional Stockmaking by D. Wesbrook.

link

Spiral
 
Thanks spiral!

I still haven't decided if I will attack the log I have or not. I know it isn't the ideal piece of wood (or even the piece I would pick!). It was from an almost-vertical branch of the tree, so maybe it won't have too much funky tension on it...
 
I say go for it....I mean, what ya got to lose?

You'll have fun, learn a lot and even if it turns out bad....the experience will be worth it.

I sat on a fence far too long before I finally jumped in to knifemaking....always worrying about whether or not I'd get it "just right".....I still worry about that, of course...:D....but I don't let it stop me from getting started.
 
Dans Right I think Bismark, That one limb will teach you more about wood than most people will ever realise.

If the stock from it doesnt work, make smaller items! :D

If you chainsaw it, have wedges & mallet handy in case it pinches, the blade.


& if the If the pith is central it could be great timber!

cheers,
Spiral
 
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