Yvsa: Got to love those Scandinavian handles. My favorite is the simple old classic "Mora Knife". To the untrained eye their handles look to be a ridiculously simple straight affair, but on closer examination the thing is oval shaped, fatter in the middle, and tapered toward each end, nothing straight about it. It's the handle style I favor for "work knives", no bells and whistles, just a sure, firm, grip.
Firkin: Just about any knife can be steeled, but if I were you I'd lose the grooved steel. However, the correct way to sharpen a Scandinavian ground knife is to hone the entire bevel surface taking care to maintain the bevel at the correct angle (not hard to do since you just place the bevel flat to the stone and it acts as its own sharpening guide).
Kis: Yup, high carbon stainless. I've made knives using blades from Helle and Brusletto of Norway, and Eriksson and Karesuando of Sweden, all using the Sandvik high carbon stainless ( I'm with Uncle Bill in preferring straight carbon steel, but I make a lot of knives for "outdoorsey types" who like knives that don't rust). It's been my experience that the Swedish stainless hardened at around 59RC sharpens with relative ease and holds an edge very, very, well.
Side note; I just finished another one of my "villager" knives hand ground from a file and it's a sweet heart. It's my version of a Scottish Sgian Dubh. I own two Sgian Dubhs, one from Sheffield, England, and one from Scotland. The Scottish one has a thick blade that's poorly ground and even more poorly tempered. The English is good steel and well tempered, but on the thin side. Both have very narrow tangs, and are obviously made for show not go, and the blades are too short IMHO for a proper boot knife. I made mine with a convex ground blade just a skosh under 3/16" thick, and a tapered tang that runs 3/4 of the way through the Bolivian rosewood handle (sorry, but my wood supplier didn't have bog oak). This one may not be quite as pretty as "store bought", but it's made to earn its keep.
Sarge