Overbuilt, Tough Work Folder

Zero Tolerance 0550. Very tough and well-built. You can pick up the Gen 3 for $165!
 
asdf12345 said:
I'd say hands down the ZT MUDD 0500. The problem with working in dirt is that debris will cause lock problems in almost any lock - sliding type (liner, frame, compression), back lock (backlock, Tri-Ad) or compressive (Axis, ball bearing). Plus it's a real pain to clean out a knife lock, and even worse if it's something you'll end up doing every day. The 0500 is specifically designed for uses such as yours.

If you can't find a 0500, at least shy away from Axis/bearing locks and ball bearing pivots as I found these to be the biggest headache when it came to debris in the knife.
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WHOLE HEARTEDLY agree with this. I also work Landscaping, if you can't already tell, and I'm sure you will use it for a lot of the same things I use mine for (packages, quick pruning when the Felcos aren't nearby, cutting Silt fence, the list goes on). Dirt and debris are inevitable. I personally would suggest shying away from bearings and fancy locks and go with something that is easily serviceable. While I know it's out of the price range(but not by much if you go on the Exchange), but I use my Umnumzaan everyday and it's served me great so far. I also always keep in mind that I have a million other tools back in the trucks which are specifically designed and more suitable for certain tasks than my knife. I put a lot of value on buying nice stuff so I know it will perform well, and always perform when I need it to.

I keep my knife close, but I keep an all steel spade closer
 
Adamas or ZT 0300 would be my recommendations to you!
 
I also do landscaping. I know what you mean when you say you need a strong knife with a thick blade. While i don t pry with my knife, some tough cutting jobs are done more confidently with a thick tough blade.While I ve used ZT knives in the past (350 and 551) and they have done well, I think that I may have scored recently two of the strongest knives I ve ever had. The Cold Steel Lawman and the Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter. Both now are in xhp steel. These are work knives. The Lawman is somewhat thin and light, but seems to be doing well as a heavy duty worker. I dont even mind the black blade (first one I ve ever used). The Ult. Hunter is somewhat light at 5 oz but appears to be a beast and seems well built. I just got that one this weekend but have used it only a bit so far. Great knife for the money
Also consider the Ritter Griptilian with m390 steel. A great buy.. I ve used Grips in the past and they are very strong. I haven t had trouble cleaning them out with water after work.
I do try to stay away from corrosive steels even though the knives are otherwise good. I can t use my Spy. Bradley as much as I would like because of the rust issues.
Think about the Ultimate Hunter.
 
I'm in landscaping as well...my solution has been carrying multiple knives.

I keep at least 2 on or near me-1 for dirty work and 1 for everything else.

Dirty work is mostly covered with my leatherman supertool, Ontario rat 3, or Becker bk11 or bk14. I can use any of those tools literally in a muddy irrigation box without any serious damage apart from some dulling. Fertilizer bags, abusive tasks, digging in irrigation boxes, pipe and wiring work, all covered there.

I rotate through the rest of my edc collection for other more normal tasks. Lately my favorites have been opinel #6, spyderco farid K2, and spyderco endura.

Keeping a separate heavy duty tool is what I've found works best for me. It allows me to rotate through the rest of my collection without ruining or damaging nicer folders.
Its definitely not necessary...I could handle everything with a single heavier knife like lots of the ones already mentioned. This gives me an excuse to enjoy my collection though.
 
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I'm not a landscaper but I have a garage knife. It's a spyderco endura with a combo black coated blade. However the reason it's relegated to garage use is that I started buying Chris Reeves and Emerson knives. Chris Reeves is out of your budget but definitely overbuilt and very easy to disassemble to clean. Emerson is both of these plus within your budget. Zero Tolerance is another great option as others have said.
 
For a hard use folder, there's none tougher than the Cold Steel Recon 1, now in CTSXHP.

Several vids on Youtube showing the abuse the Recon 1 can take.
 
Emerson CQC-7, Emerson CQC-8, or Commander. I like the coarse G10 on the Emerson's, 154-CM steel, good Rockwell for what you are looking for, the wave is awesome, quality build, top notch customer service, American Made!! It won't ever let you down.
 
Ontario Utilitac, tough and very affordable...if you lose it or it breaks you're out all of like $25. AUS8 isn't the best steel, but it's not junk either and the blade stock is quite thick.
 
Forget $200. The Cold Steel Recon 1, Mini Recon 1, and American Lawman are perfect for you. There are no stronger, more over built knives. Now they come with CTS-XHP steel. You can't beat them at any price. You can get prettier, but not stronger.
 
I went thru this and will tell you to save your money and get a Cold Steel. It's going to get beat up and dinged and what if you lose your zippy do da titanium knife on the job? Can't touch them for overall durability and the new models sport high end Carpenter steel for much less than most of the knives mentioned in this thread.
 
My choice for this kind of work is the Opinel #10 Inox.

DIRT - The Opinel is a friction folder backed up with a "lock" ring. The mechanism is practically impossible to foul with dirt, sand and such. If the lock ring does foul to the point of not spinning, the knife can still be used effectively and safely as a pure friction folder. I spend a significant amount of time using knives on sandy beaches and the Opinel is the only folding knife I'll take there any more. You can bury it in sand, rap the joint on your boot heel or a rock and be good to go.


JOINT, NOT LOCK - I've found that for this kind of work, I don't need a fixed blade. More to the point, I never rely on a lock to prevent a folder from closing. What is much, much more important is that when I'm bend cutting a sapling and pressing very hard on the knife (creating large opening force) that the lock/joint of the folder won't loosen up. I've killed ever lock back I've used in this manner. The mechanism just can't withstand the force. The same is for lateral force on the blade. I need a knife that won't develop blade play, not a knife that resists strong closing force. The Opinel #10 is the strongest knife I've used in this regard. The blade joint just doesn't develop play in any direction. For that matter, I've never had a #9 develop play either. I know some people have managed to snap the handle of the smaller Opinels (8, 7 and 6). Opinels are like axes or shovels or rakes. Smaller wood handles are more prone to busting. I've never been able to bust a 9 or a 10.


GEOMETRY - For deep cuts in wood, such as cutting limbs and saplings, I find a thin convexed blade does the best. Cuts deeper and binds less. For heavy work with wood, I like the #10 better than #9 (which is still quite good) as the blade is a bit thicker and able to take more side force which is useful for some cutting tasks. The Inox is 12C27 at 58Rc. Touches up very easy and is quite tough. I sharpen the crap out of my knives and just replace them when worn out. It's a tool, not a lifestyle statement.


GRIP - I've come to prefer the rounder grip of the Opinel for this kind of work. Actually I prefer the rounder grip after I've flattened the sides a bit with a sanding block. Still, the basically round shape of the Opinel allows me to switch to draw cutting with great comfort. I sand off any sharp bits.

Only downside to the Opinel is maintenance. The joint needs some attention to get broken in. Simple fix is just to soak the end of the knife in mineral oil every once in a while to prevent water from causing the wood to bind.
 
asdf12345 said:
I'd say hands down the ZT MUDD 0500. The problem with working in dirt is that debris will cause lock problems in almost any lock - sliding type (liner, frame, compression), back lock (backlock, Tri-Ad) or compressive (Axis, ball bearing). Plus it's a real pain to clean out a knife lock, and even worse if it's something you'll end up doing every day. The 0500 is specifically designed for uses such as yours.

If you can't find a 0500, at least shy away from Axis/bearing locks and ball bearing pivots as I found these to be the biggest headache when it came to debris in the knife.
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Agree 100%, this is exactly what I was going to type (except that I know nothing about the ZT0500).

I look at the following in a work knife:

1. A lock that is simple and easy to clean. I've had back locks and Axis locks get jammed up by dirt, I've never had any trouble from a liner or frame lock.
2. Design must work with gloved hands. This means that I must be able to open and close the blade while wearing gloves, and the grip must be big enough to be secure when used.
3. Must have a choil or handguard of some sort. A couple of times, I've closed a knife on my hand due to lost dexterity when wearing gloves. A choil, like on the Spyderco Military, or a hand guard, like on the ZT0200, have saved my fingers several times.

My favorite landscaping folders are my Spyderco Military and ZT0200. The 0200 is especially robust, safe, and just a great all around performer.

If you can afford more, the Strider SMF and SnG are excellent for hard use while wearing gloves. Everything about them is perfect for the what you've described.
 
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