Overwhelmed with 2x72 belt selection

Widerstand

Widerstand

Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
1,497
Well I just ordered a Variable Speed KMG-10, Spare Tooling Arm - Aluminium, Small Wheel Attachment for KMG, 1" Small wheel, 1/2" Small wheel, and a 3/4" Small wheel.

Now I need some belts but its kind of daunting and since this is going to be my first real grinder I am not really 100% sure what belts I should order and from where.

Thanks
 
Congrats on the grinder selection. Now save for another tooling arm with a rotary platen. If you didn't get a flat platen with it, plan on one of those also. You might want to consider a 5/8 and 1/2 inch small wheel. They come in handy on full tangs when doing the radius for the fore-finger.

Belts........ My opinion only..... Call James at Pop's Knife Supply. 60 Grit and 220 Grit 3-M Ceramics. Klingspor 120 grits. A300, A160, A100, and A 45 3-M Gator Belts.

Enjoy,

Robert
 
Robert Dark said:
Congrats on the grinder selection. Now save for another tooling arm with a rotary platen. If you didn't get a flat platen with it, plan on one of those also. You might want to consider a 5/8 and 1/2 inch small wheel. They come in handy on full tangs when doing the radius for the fore-finger.

Belts........ My opinion only..... Call James at Pop's Knife Supply. 60 Grit and 220 Grit 3-M Ceramics. Klingspor 120 grits. A300, A160, A100, and A 45 3-M Gator Belts.

Enjoy,

Robert
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Thanks, I got the package that comes with the flat platen, and the work rest.

What's the preferred belt for handles and steel? Is one better then another or does it not matter? Does the cost of the belt reflect the longevity of the belt?
 
All the belts above work on steel. I personally have never tried the "A" series gator belts on handle material. I use them primarily as a series of finish belts on the bevels prior to hand sanding. Don't get the Gators wet. They don't seem to like that.

I use the 3-M ceramics on steel, micarta, G-10, and wood. Just progress through the finer grits until you are ready to hand sand.

Does the cost reflect longevity? In my opinion, yes, however when you are hogging metal, nothing last very long. The Gators last a long time if used correctly.

Robert
 
The scalloped 1x72 j flex from Pops are my favorite for handles so far (when using them as slack belts). But I don't slack belt much, mainly use a contact wheel for most shaping.
 
u got a great grinder and are buying all kinds of tooling,also great. but it seems to me u might wanna do some reading. so u don't end up spending money u wish u hadn't on belts and tooling that does not suit ur needs. ive had a kmg clone for years and love it. but belts and tooling r expensive. till now ive got both coming out my ears. some I could have easily done without and don't do much but collect dust. so mabey take some time to do a pile of reading and buy what u need as u r tastes define themselves as to wich way u go in u r blade making.lol
 
Widerstand said:
Well I just ordered a Variable Speed KMG-10, Spare Tooling Arm - Aluminium, Small Wheel Attachment for KMG, 1" Small wheel, 1/2" Small wheel, and a 3/4" Small wheel.
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Congrats on your new grinder! If you look in the upper right hand part of the Shop Talk page underneath the page numbers you'll see "Search Forum". Click that and type in "belt selection" and spend an hour or two reading. As willy m said, doing some reading may save you some headaches and $$$. You will still have to experiment and find what works best for you. I order most of my belts from either TruGrit or Pops. Have fun! ;)
 
willy m said:
u got a great grinder and are buying all kinds of tooling,also great. but it seems to me u might wanna do some reading. so u don't end up spending money u wish u hadn't on belts and tooling that does not suit ur needs. ive had a kmg clone for years and love it. but belts and tooling r expensive. till now ive got both coming out my ears. some I could have easily done without and don't do much but collect dust. so mabey take some time to do a pile of reading and buy what u need as u r tastes define themselves as to wich way u go in u r blade making.lol
Click to expand...

Ive been doing all kinds of reading for months, I am not just blindly buying things.
 
Everybody grinds differently. My suggestion is to buy 2 of each ceramic belts, I like Norton Norzon, and see which you like the best. Also buy a few of the cheap AO 60 grit belts for handle use. Wood, bone and stag will dull a good belt just as quick as a cheap one, so I keep a bunch of the cheap ones for handles.

Stan
 
I have only 3 words for you:Norax Norax Norax.i would get 1 of each grit and remember the smaller the number the finer the grit.I've only used for final sharpening with a leather belt last,but they come out razor sharp. I get mine for usaknifemaker.com,not a plug but I got great service from them.i also recommend ceramic belts
 
I haven't settled into all the belts I like just yet, but can make a couple of recommendations that I'll stand behind. The norax/gator structured abrasive belts are the best thing I've found for finish work. I use them after hogging in bevels to get the bevels finished ready for hand sanding, and also on the spines as a final polish, and for sharpening. They last a long time. Whatever grits you like is fine, they're all great.

As far as handle shaping, a cheap belt will clog just as fast a an expensive belt if you're grinding handles. I use the 100 or 12o grit AO belts from supergrit. They come 10 to a box for about $2 per belt.

I like supergrits' 36 grit ceramics for hogging bevels or tapering tangs pre-heat treat.

I haven't settled in on good belts for grinding bevels after heat treat.
 
For me, the info posted on usaknifmaker under the abrasives section was very helpful and condensed.

My Quick Picks.
Hog the steel with BLAZE 36 and 80 Grits.
Finish bevels with Gator Belts
Use the cheaper AO belts for handle shaping from 80 grit up to 220. Hand sand after that.
Try and find a local supplier ..paying shipping sucks. A lot of places can have what you want shipped to the location on their dime.
 
Thanks for all the help!

I ended up going with some ceramic belts in 36, 60, 80, 120, 220 also some 3M Trizact belts in 400, 600, 800, and a cork polishing belt.

Does anyone use leather belts or the scotch brite in course, medium, fine belts?
 
I use a leather belt on my 1x30 and let me tell you,you don't even want to look at the edge wrong might cut your eye.
 
Widerstand said:
Thanks for all the help!

I ended up going with some ceramic belts in 36, 60, 80, 120, 220 also some 3M Trizact belts in 400, 600, 800, and a cork polishing belt.

Does anyone use leather belts or the scotch brite in course, medium, fine belts?
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Scotch brite belts are good for putting a nice belt finish on the bevels. I look forward to seeing your work.
 
Call Pops (Pops Knife Supply) and he'll set you up...

I like to use
40, 80 grit 984F Cubitron II Belts - 40 for profiling and maybe hogging out a bevel... 80 grit is my go to belt

120 Belt - I go between the 977 Cubitrons and Norax "Gator" Belts

Finishing - 165, 65, 45, 30 (120-600 grit) Gator Belts

Handles - old ceramic belts, zirconia belts, 1" belts


You want ceramic for rough grinding then some sort of finishing belts for the rest... I have tried tons of belts and really like the ones I posted. The ceramic belts I listed can be used wet or damp which is nice.

Try scotchbrite, cork, other belts too...

Congrats on the grinder! :cool:
 
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