Paper wheels VS Edge Pro?

with some time on the slotted wheel, the lines can be removed but its only cosmetic. what counts is that it can still shave or whittle hair plus cut whatever needs to be cut without failing to cut it.
 
Again, I don't disagree, but I would still like to know about the acute angles I mentioned before, and to be fair I can easily shave and probably whittle hair inside of 5 minutes with the Edge Pro as well.

Sharpening systems are like knives, people have preferences and different blades for different tasks.

My next sharpening system will be paper wheels, just for the kitchen knives because no one in my house babies the blades and I don't care about the cheap knives having even bevels, just so long as the knives fall through tomatoes and the steak knives actually cut meat! :)
 
One thing to keep in mind is so far I'm only using the slotted wheel and not the gritted wheel. After some research I will have to get the gritted wheel as well and see how that works for getting my edge even better.
 
In my experience, they didn't work at all well. And I have an intense dislike of great showers of sparks flying from my blades.

One of the professional knifemakers whose abilities and knowledge I respect greatly, Mike Stewart of Bark River Knife and Tool has some rather strong opinions on them. E-mail him some time if you're interested in the "other side" of this debate.
 
I don't have any problems with throwing sparks (and have NEVER ruined a temper on hundreds of my own and others' knives) but have not found paper wheels a satisfactory alternative to a belt sander. I can take a Bowie with NO edge bevel (think 1/16" thick square at the bottom of the primary grind and never been sharpened) and have a gorgeous, even, mirrored bevel of the angle of your choice inside of fifteen minutes. Or a coarser bevel if you prefer in even less time. If I'm starting with an existing edge bevel that just needs touched up, it takes about two minutes, and that's being careful. Now, admittedly, the fast cutting ability of a ceramic belt can mess you up badly if you don't know what you're doing. Since I do know what I'm doing, however, I just can't see ever pulling out my paper wheels again. They're *almost* as good in terms of sharpening existing bevels, much less effective when setting a new bevel, and nowhere near as useful for any other type of work. It could be that wheels have an easier learning curve than belts for some people, I don't know. I took to my grinder pretty fast.

As to the edge pro, I haven't used one. I do own the Wicked Edge system, and am extremely impressed with it's build quality. I use it as a portable sharpener when I'm away from my real tools, or use the DMT Aligner if I need to be really portable. Much slower (by a factor of ten) than the grinder, but easy enough for mindless sharpening with good results. I still freehand, from time to time, just to maintain the ability.
 
Last edited:
t1mpani said:
I don't have any problems with throwing sparks (and have NEVER ruined a temper on hundreds of my own and others' knives)
Click to expand...
You did, but only at the edge apex. Apparently it was shown in testing that even sharpening by hand on bench stones without a coolant will do the same, though I don't know the grit, speed, and pressure applied in this test.

One reason I dropped paper wheels. Along with them needing to be attached to a motor, which needs to be attached to a power outlet. And also the excessive metal removal for touch-ups.

Paper wheels, belt sanders, v-rods, edge pro, clamp style, and bench stones all work, matter of choice.
 
hardheart said:
And also the excessive metal removal for touch-ups.
Click to expand...

Well, I generally use loaded leather belts for touchups, unless there's actual damage, in which case 600 grit belts (or scotch brite) come out, with a dunk in water between each pass. Always do the final touch on an ultra-fine kitchen steel. As to the temper at the edge apex...well, all I can say is that nobody has ever mentioned (nor have I noticed on my own) a tendency for the edges I've done to be particularly short lived. I suppose it's entirely possible, but it doesn't seem to show up in a practical sense.
 
No burrs on leather belts either--though certainly they'll form with other belts when doing shaping or re-beveling. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the wheels don't work, and I'm sure they work even better when you've put in the time to really master them. I'm just saying I can make a knife, refinish a knife, reshape a knife or resharpen a knife all with one tool (the belt grinder), and thus have never felt the slightest need to pull the paper wheels out again. Actually, if I can find them, I should probably send them to you since they're just sitting around.

Just a note for when people DO work up a burr/wire edge (since we're talking sharpening), the easiest method for removing it that I've found is to pull the edge perpendicularly through hardwood like oak or ash. I don't mean you have to cut through it, just let the edge bite into it and pull through the entire length of the blade. The wire edge tears off in the wood, but the wood won't damage/blunt your actual bevel. Beats the hell out of chasing the steel feathers back and forth. :)
 
t1mpani said:
No burrs on leather belts either--though certainly they'll form with other belts when doing shaping or re-beveling. Don't get me wrong, I'm not saying the wheels don't work, and I'm sure they work even better when you've put in the time to really master them. I'm just saying I can make a knife, refinish a knife, reshape a knife or resharpen a knife all with one tool (the belt grinder), and thus have never felt the slightest need to pull the paper wheels out again. Actually, if I can find them, I should probably send them to you since they're just sitting around.

Just a note for when people DO work up a burr/wire edge (since we're talking sharpening), the easiest method for removing it that I've found is to pull the edge perpendicularly through hardwood like oak or ash. I don't mean you have to cut through it, just let the edge bite into it and pull through the entire length of the blade. The wire edge tears off in the wood, but the wood won't damage/blunt your actual bevel. Beats the hell out of chasing the steel feathers back and forth. :)
Click to expand...
If you don't want your wheels I'll take them because I'd love to try them out and I have trouble getting a paper cutting edge...

I also run the edge through wood to remove the burr sometimes.

Erdbeereis
 
Last edited:
Heiheit said:
Tried both, kept the belt grinder :D
Click to expand...
i offered to help you learn how to use them :p:D. you should have taken me up on the offer;). if i can teach a guy with 1 eye how to use them over the phone after talking to him for 15 minutes then i'm sure i could have taught you :D
 
Skimo said:
Performance, I agree, at least when it comes to utility, aesthetics matter to some, a perfectly mirror polished edge is a thing of beauty, your post didn't mention extremely low angles.

You're the man when it comes to paper wheels, I'd like to know what you think of the possibility of getting a mirror polish on a 20° inclusive bevel while keeping the bevel even. Also for angles below 20° would there be an increased possibility of overheating the metal at the edge?
Click to expand...

All you need is a little practice. Be sure to use some wax on the grit wheel, it will slow down the grinding a bit but it prevents mistakes.

As for some nice edges, here's an example of mine:

ZDP-189_FRNStretch2_10degrees.jpg


Even bevels are pretty easy. I followed Richard's advice and practiced on some used hacksaw blades. I've been using the wheels for a few years but it took me a couple weekends of practice to get comfortable. Good luck.
 
Erdbeereis said:
If you don't want your wheels I'll take them because I'd love to try them out and I have trouble getting a paper cutting edge...

I also run the edge through wood to remove the burr sometimes.

Erdbeereis
Click to expand...

Well, I offered 'em to Richard (don't know if he needs more) but you get 'em if he doesn't want 'em. Of course, this is all assuming I can find the things. The shop is a tad...unkempt. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top